X80-BK on a Murray Beach Cruiser - Starting issues and fuel problems. PLEASE HELP

[mapbike]

Thank you guys, all of you. I truly appreciate all the help and I'm sure I'll get this worked out the next time I have time to sit down and work on it. (fingers crossed that'll be tomorrow afternoon)

So to respond -

The bowl being crooked on the carb is kinda weird, as I've lined it up and made sure the gasket is seated properly, and although it looks kind of crooked, I thoroughly checked and didn't see any leakage there. I'm thinking that it's going to have to do with what Tom is talking about, because the first time I took the carb apart the tang was stuck in its position. I'm going to have to blow out the engine as well, I have yet to do that. As far as using the other carb, the first motor I got from boygofast is probably going to get sent back, but I'm going to play with the parts of both though to get this right. I have confidence I'll figure it out with all of your help.

Again, thanks guys, you've made me a believer, and definitely a new member that's going to be around to stay.

-Nik

Well buddy you for sure got the right attitude, just keep at it and when you finally get it done you'll not only enjoy the bike but you'll also enjoy the knowledge you gotten by the experience, you'll be able to solve future issues with that knowledge and you'll be able to chime in and help other noobs in the future who may be having simular issues.

Cant wait to hear you say( problem solved)

Peace, map

 

[CheebaChamp]

Ok, so I got the carb put together using the better pieces of both carbs I have. Swapped the bowl, because the bowl being crooked is actually just how the bowl on the one is made. I looked at them both taken apart and one is nice and even (the one I'm using now) and the other is kinda ugly. I also swapped the tangs. I checked the needle seat, and everything else you guys have suggested. Float is sitting at 21mm without the gasket. The carb is together, and no longer leaking!!! Too bad it's pouring outside (FL in summertime for ya) and I cant blow out the motor and see if she'll run now. I have a feeling she will though, it's looking promising. Also, I'm deciding against riding until I get my new arch style chain tensioner on Friday(hopefully), as I've been having problems with that as well, and this original seems like a death trap. Should I weld it to the frame or use U-bolts? I should get my new DOT apporved half helmet then too. I have to say that after this past few weeks of really learning how these things go together and how they work, I'm really lucky I didnt hurt myself with the first motor.

Again guys, THANK YOU. I'll keep ya posted whenever I get break in the weather and see if the motor's going to run.

 

[2door]

Keep us informed, Cheeba, and good luck. Have fun but ride safe.
Say hello to Mickey for us too

Tom

 

[GearNut]

Congratulations on your carb repair!
By describing the chain tensioner as an arch style, if you mean the type that spans between the chain stay and seat stay by the rear wheel, then u bolts will work fine.

 

[CheebaChamp]

One more quick question that has nothing to do with the original post.

What should I do with the white wire coming from the motor? I've heard a few different things.

 

[2door]

Cap and wrap it. Don't allow it to come in contact with any metal.

Some of us actually remove it completely from the magneto. It is supposed to provide power for lights but can only put out enough for a 3 watt lamp. Not much light from those. Some have tried to use it to charge a battery and to run LED lights but again, it really serves no useful purpose. Isolate it or remove it.

Tom

 

[chainmaker]

The stock tensioners are crap, get rid of it and a few inches of that motor side chain, use this method to remedy the rest of the slack

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=304

Or just buy some

http://venicemotorbikes.com/shop/?product=chain-tensioning-shim-kit

Nice and clean looking

 

[CheebaChamp]

The stock tensioners are crap, get rid of it and a few inches of that motor side chain, use this method to remedy the rest of the slack

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=304

Or just buy some

http://venicemotorbikes.com/shop/?product=chain-tensioning-shim-kit

Nice and clean looking

I'm going with the arch style like this. I think that would be about as safe and reliable as I could get.

I'll be sure to keep you all updated. It's been a long road with this bike, but I know the finished product is going to be worth it.

 

[CheebaChamp]

I got a little bit of time today, went through and made sure everything was right, and the motor fired up no problem. Thanks for the help guys, really. I put about 10 km on it once I got it running, just cruising nice and slow around the neighborhood. I'm looking for as much reliability and longevity as I can get out of this bike, as it's going to be my daily transportation. That in mind, what's the proper (as proper as proper can be) method to break in these China Girl motors?

 

[2door]

Cheeba,
Break in procedures are as varied as the personalities of the members here. You'll get lots of opinions on this. My advice is to read and research and do what you feel comfortable with. The suggestions will run from one end of the scale to the other.

In short, use a good quality oil formulated for 2 stroke air cooled engines and no more than a 24:1 fuel to oil ratio. Disregard the instruction manual that might have come with your kit and do not run 16:1 which is too much oil.

Good luck and get ready for some reading. The opinions will roll in here quickly.

Tom

 

[mapbike]

Cheeba,
Break in procedures are as varied as the personalities of the members here. You'll get lots of opinions on this. My advice is to read and research and do what you feel comfortable with. The suggestions will run from one end of the scale to the other.

In short, use a good quality oil formulated for 2 stroke air cooled engines and no more than a 24:1 fuel to oil ratio. Disregard the instruction manual that might have come with your kit and do not run 16:1 which is too much oil.

Good luck and get ready for some reading. The opinions will roll in here quickly.

Tom

Ditto.........

But since im here might as well put my method on the table, I put the mix I plan to run all the time in it day one, I dont try to ease nothing in to much maybe first 10 miles gets a easier ride and then I run it the way I plan to run it, if something is faulty and is going to give it up its gonna do it no matter how easy you run it to begin with.
I dont wait for several hundred miles to tune my engines either, I rejet to a smaller jet size before the engine is ever started for the first time, if an engine is mechanically sound it will hold up and run as good after just a few miles as it will after a couple hundred, as you will see many times people suggest 300 miles break in period, not a one of mine ran a bit better at 300 than they did after 50-75 miles of being run just like im gonna run it till it dies, good carb tune so that it isn't to lean and top quality oil is the key in my opinion, the rest is determined by the mechanical condition of your engine when it came out of the box, its mainly about fit and condition of the bearings, replace to wrist pin bearing within first hundred or so miles with quality bearing, not always something to be concerned about but a definite weak point in many of these engines, learned that first hand.

Ok ? Done.....!

Best wishes and long live your china girl

Map

 

[CheebaChamp]

Cheeba,
Break in procedures are as varied as the personalities of the members here. You'll get lots of opinions on this. My advice is to read and research and do what you feel comfortable with. The suggestions will run from one end of the scale to the other.

In short, use a good quality oil formulated for 2 stroke air cooled engines and no more than a 24:1 fuel to oil ratio. Disregard the instruction manual that might have come with your kit and do not run 16:1 which is too much oil.

Good luck and get ready for some reading. The opinions will roll in here quickly.

Tom

Thanks Tom.

I knew 16:1 had to be too rich. I'll start running the 24:1 I have mixed from my first build. Oh, also swapped the CDI for one I hooked up with an automotive spark plug wire and put in the B6HS plug.