Womens Issues

[harry76]

Thanks that may help a lot, that opens up another option. I could have a fuel tank behind the seatpost but in front of the rear wheel, and like i said make it like those BTR style tollboxes you see. And i could have the jackshaft above it. That would be out of the way, still look good, keep the motor cool and free up the rear area for usable racks rather then a fuel tank.

Im not familiar with these fuel pumps but like a lot of things on my bike builds ill learn i guess...... i wonder how you prime the carb if its a fuel pump rather then gravity fed? And also what do you mean "get a pulse from the valve cover?

 

[MarkSumpter]

A fuel pump takes the pressure and vacuum (or pulse this same pulse can also be used to operate a carburetor with an internal fuel pump much like a weedeater does ) that is produced in the crankcase generally from the valve cover/crankcase vacuum fitting and opens and closes small flaps on a diaphragm that act as 2 way valves and turns the alternating pressures into a pump and the secondary diaphragm acts like a piston to force the fuel to the carb against gravity.

The one I posted is a cheapo... If it were me I would use the one from a 12 -18 horse Briggs Vanguard that is rebuildable like the one below when the diaphragms shoot craps or it just get clogged up...

Here is an exploded view of the better one:

Yea and like you said it does open up alot of options for mounting not having to rely on gravity. With all of the sharp cookies here I am surprised I haven't seen more people utilize pumps.

 

[MarkSumpter]

I had to reread that last post Gads it has been a long time since I tried to explain that.

 

[harry76]

Thanks so much for the info. I will look into this. I might make a cardboard fuel tank behind the seat today and see what it looks like.

 

[agk]

If you need a fuel pump you should consider getting the pulse from the carb manifold you are going to make. We always prefer getting the pulse from the manifold because it's clean. When we get the pulse from the crankcase or valve cover oil will eventually make it's way into the pulse line. This will slow the pump down which requires you to open up the pump to clean the oil out. This is a bigger concern with the modified motors that spin a lot of rpm, but even the mild motors will push oil into the pulse line.

Here's a little more info we have on setting up a pulse pump:
AGK - Fuel Pump Setup - Affordable Go Karts

 

[harry76]

Thanks but ive been thinking about this project and i may change it up a little. I was going to run this with a shaved flywheel and probably pull start via rope and handle, but the thought of the flywheel near anyone elses leg but mine scares me. And seeing as this will be my girlfriends bike i figure just running it with the original shroud (im not a fan of these), This will eliminate any injury from the flywheel, will provide and easy pull start set up and help cool the engine (this bike may be ridden slowly, often). And that way i can build a tank thats out of the way and more resembles a bicycle (these are illegal where im from).

And if i do use a similar (but bigger) tank then what i used, but i would taper it to the width of the flywheel cover.

Otherwise i can modify this tank i have but taper it like the lines marked on it...

 

[harry76]

If i do use that tank i can cut out a tunnel for the toptube and either mount it horizontal like this......

Otherwise i could cut the tunnell right through and mount it over the toptube but parallell with it.

 

[harry76]

It seems i have troubles with exceeding my bandwidth on Phototbucket, im a computer dummie so there may have been other ways but i just paid for a years Photobucket Pro so im assuming the photos will reappear soon....

I bought a box of old bike crap (gold to me) and it contained heaps of old goodies. I will use the seat (for now til i find better), fenders, centre stand (until i build a rear one), a rear luggage rack i may use.

I also decided to steal the wheels meant for my Indian project, im a little short on bikebuilding funds right now, so i can build a better set of wheels (moped hubs) for my Indian later, that way i can get this done for a car show me and my girlfriend are going to next month, and keep her safe with good brakes..... well the Sturmey Archer at least, that rear band nrake is meant to be crap but good enough for this..... i hope.

The rims will be repainted white, and the bike, tank and fenders will be done in a light, flat purple if i can find some suitable.

I also tacked up a tank for this to see what it looked like, at first i wasnt sure but its growing on me, i may just remake one similar with more rolled edges on the tank. Or leave it???

I need to fix the fenders up a little, but im pretty happy with the look of the bike. It kind of reminds me of a trials bike.

 

[harry76]

The primary will be belt drive and since im using these wheels the secondary will be chain driven.

My question is what sort of reduction am i aiming for with a 3hp Briggs?

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

You saw that I have the same engine and with the same idea belt and pulley / jackshaft sproket an chain?

Re from reply on Villers Beach Cruiser #493 page on Page 50 the picture of it.

I'm not sure with the picture that you show now of the woman motor bike, is it that the sprocket toothed clutch that is on the engine now will be removed for a belt clutch?

I also see a toothed sprocket attached to the back wheel. Is that connected to the spokes and where does that part come from?

Would a chain actually ever be possible from the way it stands now no jackshaft? It would be quite a high gearing though and also would the chain clear all or need frame modification.

I am still getting things done to finish my build, but I found I have an 8.3 to 1 ratio. I found that by turning the 26 inch wheel 1 revolution and saw the mini bike toothed clutch like the one you have in the picture go 8 and 1/3 times around.

I wish I could tell you now how it goes, but I have a few more things to complete.

One other question, is that a drum brake in the hub on the front wheel? I had one once, and they are great in wet weather!

Measure Twice

 

[harry76]

Measuretwice... im doing the opposite to you, im using a belt primary and secondary chain. The reasoning is i had the clutch from my Villiers project which i didnt use. And as funds are a little tight atm i am just going to use the wheels meant for my Indian project, which i have already laced a sprocket hub.

So to answer your question, the clutch is actually a pulley version rather then the sprocket one. Mine is just turned inwards to reduce the width of the driveline.

The hub you are asking about is a Grubbee (i think as i got it a some time ago) HD hub designed for motorbicycles. The sprocket bolts to a bracket, and threads onto the hub, rather then the spokes. It has a freewheel and band brake which isnt meant to be the best. But its the same hub Cobrafreak has on his Indian, and he has bought a disc brake kit that replaces the band brake and he recommends. But hopefully the band brake and front Sturmey Archer drum brake front hub will be sufficient.

Hope that helps Measuretwice

 

[harry76]

And you can get a drive (pulley or chain) to run directly from the motor to the wheel but that would mean offsetting the motor, not something id want to do.

 

[harry76]

Today i cut up a 10 speed racer bars and tack welded an exhaust and inlet manifold. I need to fully weld and tidy them up a fair bit but you get the idea. The exhaust i just cut the standard exhaust and cut the thread off and made an exhaust to have the two meet, i will end up painting it black....

 

[harry76]

I tacked up a rough version of my inlet manifold, and i need to make some flange brackets for it. It will sit out a little further then in the photo, also it may be slightly shorter.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Mystery solved, Thanks!

Ya know, I did the same with the reversing what I thought was the convention on clutches. The pads on the clutch are symmetrical so I do think it matters that I reversed the direction which is now changed to the gear teeth on the outside.

Say, although I have used the handle Measure Twice, my design was a bit flawed. Well you know how it goes, you use what parts you can get for free (scrap) and it not just what allows enough adjustment.

So yea, I also have my clutch (a toothed variety) turned opposite from what I usually think most people do. I have the gear toward the outside and not next to the side of the engine where the crank shaft comes out. This allowed the chain not to have to go at a skew angle. Belts can handle a little of that, but not a chain.

Hey good looking work and routing stuff, though as you say they are tack welds so far, still quite impressive.

I also hear you confirmed to me that drum brake you have on the front. You might want to have a drum incase of wet weather. Cars of past used to always have the disks in front since the front do most the stopping power, but the rear as drums, the drum stay dry and don't slip even when going through a puddle.

Measure Twice

 

[msrfan]

Nice job Harry. I really like the tank above the motor. Slightly resembles a Simplex style. I was thinking about your pulley clutch. I use them myself and know they take some hp because of constant tension. If you were to use a comet or similar torque-a-verter driver, you would only tension the belt when you rev the motor and the pulley sides come together. An added benifit would be an adjustable ratio by moving your jackshaft closer or farther from the motor allowing the belt to ride higher or lower in the clutch driver. Anyway, just brainstorming. They cost about $80 and I have not purchased one yet. Maybe next month, and I'll let you know the results.

 

[harry76]

Thanks msrfan, i always value your input.

You said "I was thinking about your pulley clutch. I use them myself and know they take some hp because of constant tension."

When you say "take" some horsepower, do you mean they can handle a lot of HP and should be fine.... or did you mean they take a lot of horsepower to run, meaning it would rob my engine of power and probably wouldnt be the best idea?

What do you think of the inlet manifold, i wanted to keep it well out of the riders way to be rider friendly and that seemed to be the best spot.... do you think it will run ok?

 

[harry76]

I had a chat with Kelly and i commented that i quite like the red rims white guard look, she agrees so the new color scheme will be red frame, red wheels (as is), white guards (maybe with a red stripe), and the tank will be maybe all white or red and white, up to her. Kelly has shown a lot more interest when i said id let her design the tank font, color and design, then she even asked if she could have a go at grinding some time...... i was blown away as she has never ever ever shown any interest in my bikes. She usually says "i dont get it". But she seemed honestly interested..... i even said she could paint it if she wanted (yikes)..... lol

 

[silverbear]

I kind of like the motor with it's shroud, like it isn't pretending to be anything other than what it is. And the tank does look good now that it's in there. I was also thinking that leaving the engine with the original paint gives the bike some age, but I guess she'll want it matching the rest of the bike. Very cool that she's showing so much interest. Lucky boy...
SB

 

[harry76]

Yeah Kelly wants the motor painted silver, im not sure what color she wants the shroud. I would think red or maybe black. And i agree i dont mind the shroud either and will help cool it, easier with pull start, and less likely to catch any body parts. But i am thinking of ways to make it look a little better.