What's Inside Your Grubee GT5?

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dakota47l1

New Member
Oct 2, 2011
132
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st louis mo.
do you just shake it up? I'm doing this right now to my engine and I'm debating on cracking the crankcase open or just washing it out as you described. I don't want to half ass it, but if I can avoid taking it apart, I wouldn't mind at all.:) does it get everything out?
I am kind of intimidated when it comes to getting into the lower end, plus I lack some of the tools needed to do it...
i have an extra motor and would like to take it apart but need to know spesifics
on haw to do it and what tools are needed...anyone??bueller bueller??
 

Ibedayank

New Member
Oct 29, 2011
1,171
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Columbia Tennessee
i have an extra motor and would like to take it apart but need to know spesifics
on haw to do it and what tools are needed...anyone??bueller bueller??
sockets/wrenches/screwdriver to fit the bolts nuts and screws and the puller that came with your kit. Add to that general know how to take stuff apart and put it back togather. motors don"t get any simpler than a ht
 

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
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USA
i have an extra motor and would like to take it apart but need to know spesifics
on haw to do it and what tools are needed...anyone??bueller bueller??
You basically need a metric wrench/socket set and some large phillips and flat head screwdrivers to take the motor apart. And "should" have a torque wrench to put it back together....
The head comes off real easy, 13mm socket or wrench, 4 cap screws come off and up comes the head.... After you pull the head you can see down into the cylinder, see the piston and any crap that might be up in there. The intake manifold should be checked for metal that may come lose if it is the cut and welded at the bend type.
Checking under the head is a good start, I'm not sure how far you want to go? The bottom end isn't really that tough to disassemble either, not quite as easy as pulling the head though...
I think the biggest threat to your new motor is probably crap in the head, bad head alignment (like the picture I posted) etc, top end stuff. But there's no harm in tearing her all the way down to learn if your into it.
When you put the head back on you need to torque it down properly, I don't recall the torque specs offhand, but they are posted here in the forum somewhere and probably in your kit manual. Make sure you pay attention to the washers under each bolt, sometimes they use more washers under one bolt than others, I think cause that stud sits higher than the rest and might bottom out on the cap nut. Thats a clue you might want to look into better studs and making sure they all seat down in the bottom end evenly. If you don't do that at least put back the same number of washers on each stud that came off it....
Take pictures with a digital camera as you disassemble for refernece...
Good luck...
 

dakota47l1

New Member
Oct 2, 2011
132
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0
st louis mo.
i know how to tear down the top end its the bottom end that i have questions about and the procedures that i have found are a little vauge on some of it.like the small bevel gear...witch way do the threads go on the screw and whats the best way to keep the crank from spinning wile you take everything off?and do you need a puller to take off the mag magnent?i couldent get it off but i also didnt try to force it.
 
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nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
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USA
The puller tool will remove the small bevel gear for ya, to lock the gears the easiest thing I have found is to put the thick sewn part of a rag a or folded over a heavy rag in the gears to lock them as you turn....
 

dakota47l1

New Member
Oct 2, 2011
132
0
0
st louis mo.
The puller tool will remove the small bevel gear for ya, to lock the gears the easiest thing I have found is to put the thick sewn part of a rag a or folded over a heavy rag in the gears to lock them as you turn....
i have worked on alot of bikes motorcycles.and jamming something in gears doesnt sound like a good plan are you sure??there has to be a better way and that seems like it would put harmfull pressure on everything in the motor.bearings... maybe not rubber seals?i was thinking about sticking something in the conecting rod to hold it but havent had the time to try it
 

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
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USA
i have worked on alot of bikes motorcycles.and jamming something in gears doesnt sound like a good plan are you sure??there has to be a better way and that seems like it would put harmfull pressure on everything in the motor.bearings... maybe not rubber seals?i was thinking about sticking something in the conecting rod to hold it but havent had the time to try it
OK, you only need to lock it enough to pop that top screw so it's no biggie, the puller tool will do the rest, but good luck to you with whatever method you decide on. Honestly, this is the simplest little motor, so if you have worked on a lot of motorcycles you shouldn't have any problems tearing this one down....
 

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
2
0
USA
i have worked on alot of bikes motorcycles.and jamming something in gears doesnt sound like a good plan are you sure??there has to be a better way and that seems like it would put harmfull pressure on everything in the motor.bearings... maybe not rubber seals?i was thinking about sticking something in the conecting rod to hold it but havent had the time to try it
Here is a link to a Grubee manaul online, scroll down and it will show a suggested removal method for the bevel gear. They pucture a flat blade screwdriver jammed in the gears, tad bit more severe than a rag....

http://www.gasbike.net/images_templ/GT5_SR_Manual.pdf

At any rate, I think you should be able to find the answers to your questions there in that link...
 

GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
I use a piece of flattened or sectioned copper pipe to lock up gears on a regular basis. The copper is softer than the steel or cast iron that the gear is made of so no damage is done. In the past I have also used a piece of scrap hard wood such as oak. I have also used rags but they always seem to get cut up and you have to remove all the bits of cut/ shredded threads from the greasy mess, not a fun task I assure you.

You can use a well fitted piece of pipe passed through the connecting rod bearing journal resting on scraps of wood or aluminum set between the ends of the pipe and the base gasket surface of the engine case. The pipe will need to be well fitted to the size of the bearing journal in the connecting rod so as to not leave an impression on the bearing surface when pressure is applied, but that is alot of un-needed work as jambing the gears when done properly will do no harm to the bearings or seals.

The use of gear and sprocket tooth locking devices is as old as working with them is.
Some are anchored by bolting to the assembly in which the gears or sprockets are housed in and have teeth that mesh with the gear(s) to prevent rotation. Some get wedged in between the teeth of gears. Some get wedged in between the teeth of sprockets in a diagonal fashion so as to use the natural rotation of the sprockets to work against the locking bar and bind up the ability of the sprockets to rotate.

Look into all the currently available tools used to lock up overhead camshaft engines when servicing the valve train.
Look into all the locking tools used in the power transfer drives of agricultural equipment.
The list is mind boggling to say the least.
 

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
2
0
USA
I use a piece of flattened or sectioned copper pipe to lock up gears on a regular basis. The copper is softer than the steel or cast iron that the gear is made of so no damage is done. In the past I have also used a piece of scrap hard wood such as oak. I have also used rags but they always seem to get cut up and you have to remove all the bits of cut/ shredded threads from the greasy mess, not a fun task I assure you.

You can use a well fitted piece of pipe passed through the connecting rod bearing journal resting on scraps of wood or aluminum set between the ends of the pipe and the base gasket surface of the engine case. The pipe will need to be well fitted to the size of the bearing journal in the connecting rod so as to not leave an impression on the bearing surface when pressure is applied, but that is alot of un-needed work as jambing the gears when done properly will do no harm to the bearings or seals.

The use of gear and sprocket tooth locking devices is as old as working with them is.
Some are anchored by bolting to the assembly in which the gears or sprockets are housed in and have teeth that mesh with the gear(s) to prevent rotation. Some get wedged in between the teeth of gears. Some get wedged in between the teeth of sprockets in a diagonal fashion so as to use the natural rotation of the sprockets to work against the locking bar and bind up the ability of the sprockets to rotate.

Look into all the currently available tools used to lock up overhead camshaft engines when servicing the valve train.
Look into all the locking tools used in the power transfer drives of agricultural equipment.
The list is mind boggling to say the least.
Thanks for all that info. I knew it was a proper method for locking the gears but I didn't want to push him if he thought it was improper. Better coming from a second source...
As for the rags, I never really had a problem with them ripping apart, maybe because I use the thick corner where it is folded and sewn.
I will say now that you have confirmed the gear locking method, it seems that locking the motor by putting something through the piston rod seems like it has much more potential to screw something up in your motor IMHO...
 

Rocky_Motor

New Member
Nov 14, 2011
367
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0
Fort Collins & Boulder
I took my head off but cant get it back on. The piston rings are in the way? What do i do

Edit: nvm, found the groove things it's supposed to go around.

I found a bunch of gunk from the rubber gasket thing they use so I cleaned that off. Hopefully it helps :)
 
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GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
5,104
11
38
San Diego, Kaliforgnia
Rubber gasket thing used as part of the head gasket? Huh?
You've got me stumped there.
The head gaskets are one piece of thin, soft aluminum.
Sometimes the factory will put 2 of them on. Folks also sometimes remove one of them, leaving the other one there to seal the head, resulting in increasing the engine's compression ratio for more power.
 

Rocky_Motor

New Member
Nov 14, 2011
367
0
0
Fort Collins & Boulder
Sorry im still getting used to the terms. The head had a thin metal gasket and the piece below it that I pulled off has some kind of non-metal gasket. You can see it without taking it apart too.

I ordered a black engine. Sadly it is silver... sigh.
 

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
2
0
USA
I guess we have strayed a bit from the topic here,

What's inside your Grubee GT5???

I am in contact with Don Grube and am trying to provide him feedback on quality control issues. There are two assembly lines and he suspects most of the bad/dirty motors are coming from one of them and is looking for feedback to identify it. If you had issues with a Grubee motor please post details here and I will make sure Grube knows about it.
Please specify the manufacture date, whether the tag is round or square and whether it has the flat head screws or the phillips. (see pics)
Your feedback will hopefully help straighten out some of these QC problems that we are all too familiar with.
Thanks
PS I am not working for Grube or getting anything for doing this, just want to see the QC on these motors to improve.....
 

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bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
seriously? ok, here goes...

on the GT5 66 Skyhawk's:

the headstuds are never bottomed out, and when you do it yourself, the nuts no longer fit on them. instead of using multiple washers and crappy acorn nuts, the correct length studs should be used, bottomed out, one flat washer and one lock washer each, and hex nuts.

the cast aluminum mounting brackets (not the mount itself, but the C shaped bracket) is junk. tighten them down too much and they snap in half. and by "too much" i mean, tight as they should be.

the fins on the jugs are horrible. besides being bent on every engine i've had, the left over casting flash makes a sharp, ugly edge on them.

the inside edges of the ports are always rough and need to be cleaned up before chroming, as grinding them smooth can mess up the chrome.

as for the rest of the kit, the CNS carbs are too big and they don't seal properly. that's the real problem with them. it's not that the carb itself is junk, it's that it's too much carb for the engine, and they always have airleaks, due to the cheap plastic seal and the shoddy bent-over steel intake, which usually isn't perfectly round after being cut, bent, and re-welded.

i understand the need for EPA compliance, but either a different manufacturer should be found to supply the carbs, or a smaller CNS should be used.

the carb is the single most cause of dis-satisfaction with these motors. search "CNS" on this forum and it'll turn up a million posts about people who hate them and can't make them work. it's no use having an EPA compliant carb when 90% of the people order an aftermarket NT and throw away the CNS. and the cable operated choke with the cheap click shifter lever is a joke, and it's ugly.

also, matching the ports for the intake and exhaust flanges would be nice, too.

on the exhaust pipes, on all the ones i've built to run with the stock exhaust, the larger "catalytic converter" breaks apart and tries to blow out of the pipe.

and get rid of the acorn nuts on everything, for that matter. 90% of the time they bottom out before they get tight.

there are multitudes of other problems, but most of these are the most common. other problems i've had was a head not being milled properly so there was a gap between the head and the jug at the headstuds. meaning, there was a taller, circular lip around the combustion chamber, so even though it mated to the jug, there was a gap at the corners where the studs were. when you tighten it down, it wants to bow out inbetween the studs.


and on the GT5-A superhawk, the heads need to be twice the thickness. every single one of them has blown headgaskets, usually after less than a day of riding, and they're are totally useless. i've gone up to 3 head gaskets to decrease the compression, and all it did was make me run out of head gaskets.

the simplest solution, is to place the yaun dong factory directly over a faultline or a volcano, then pray to whatever yokia goblin that lives there to swallow the factory up.

then, go to the starfire factory with 30 grand (or whatever it costs these days) and get the engines made there. i've never had a problem with a GT4.
 
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nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
2
0
USA
bairdco,
Thanks for the feedback, I will make sure Don Grube reads it.
I too wanted a starfire, but they are not yet EPA approved for the USA, I was told mid next year we will see the StarFire motors hit the USA shores.
Thanks again for giving me feedback to send, I already sent everything about my personal experience....

PS your comments have been delivered to Don Grube.....
 
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