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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Skarrd, Oct 25, 2010.
That StingRay frame has an interesting look - bet that'll be a fun build.
Today I dug into my box of bicycle parts & came up with a mirror, along with a headlight and tail light I hadn't been using. I now feel like the Micargi is now much more road worthy.
While I have not kept a log of my miles, I'd be willing to wager I've spent more time riding that sucker in the past couple of weeks than I have since I put it together in 2013.
Here are a couple of photos taken this afternoon of my no-longer-stock 4 stroke.
OK for the one or two Super Moderators demanding to police the motorized bicycle world along with those following them here yet one more example of why I suspect a bunch of motorized bicycle parts from box end up back in the box they don't suggest one of these a welded steel engine mount. Now if that don't let the chase begin ?,release the barking growling 4 leg Super Duper Moderator to test all Moderators..
LOL< That's funny. Apparently you have never read through any of my build threads. Not only do I weld the mounts but they are usually custom designed, even a couple of off-set mounts and they don't look like something from the scrap metal pile.
There ya go picking on my scrap metal stuff again........lol......!!!!!
You have done so nice work on those bikes Tom, very durable mounting for sure...
Carry on my friend....
I asked a local welder if he could help me with something "you cou'd probably make it out of a bit of scrap" I said
"there is no scrap metal, every piece has a use somewhere"
Ha ha, very true but at least grind off the rough edges and rust!
Sounds like my kinda people.
Actually did several things to the "Taffy Bike" today, finally got the front mount made from old kit parts I had laying around fixed the way I wanted it and got the engine mounted solid to the bike as it will stay now if all goes according to plan.
The two pix below show it at its "finished" state, I could have made a much simpler front mount or ground the paint off the frame and made a weld on frame engine mounting tab, but I had these parts and I knew they would do just fine for what I needed, so instead of them going to waist I decided to use parts of two different "big frame" kit mounting set ups to make the one mount I needed, It's not real clean and fancy looking but it's rock solid so I'm good with it.
Also I have included a link after the pix to where I posted some info pix of the exhaust flange I built today for the Taffy bike from a grade-8 7/8" ID flat washer and a piece of a front fork I cut off of a just set of forks I had.
Link to exhaust work: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=607378#post607378
Started stripping the rust off the front fork tubes on the stingray and removing the decals... the chrome is really thin and it comes right off with a twisted wire cup brush on an angle grinder then I left the fork legs in the carb dip to soften the decals for easier removal....
I've also decided to go with no chrome on this one so I'm most likely going to paint the fork legs and other chrome parts semi flat black then I'll pinstripe them with lime green and white pinstriping paint. I'm thinking about going with gloss black for the frame and airbrushing in some green realistic flames to complete the theme...
That sound like that will look excellent Dave, if the flames you airbrush on that bike are anything like the excellent work you've done on those helmets, that bike is gonna be sick......
Very excited for you on this build and looking forward to watching it come together for you.
Today I dug even further into the bike parts bin & discovered a unused Planet Bike computer that should work real well on the Micargi. That particular model of computer even has a thermometer - definitely nothing necessary; but, it will make riding more fun.
Then, while rooting around in my garage this evening I stumbled across an old set of Mozo suspension forks that I think will work real well on the little pig. Those should at least keep me from absorbing 100% of the shock from our bombed-out Michigan streets up through my arms.
I really enjoy having suspension forks, it does make the ride so much better.
I do a lot of my riding on rough dirt roads, with pot holes and rub board areas, a couple of my bikes dont have suspension forks and they beat me half to death on these roads sometime...lol
I plan to have suspension forks on all my bikes in the future.
this is the one I did today like the paint job????
Looks good to me, is that a Huffy?
Was thinking they recently came out with a frame like that, but may have my wires crossed on that....lol
At any rate it looks good and that frame is screaming in frame fuel tank.
its a Schwinn midway 29" steel frame and rims its a newer model motor kit the front mount is a 1 1/2" comes with the nt speed carb and has a really nice cylinder most of the mold lips and other b.s. in the ports are really clean better than most of the ones ive been getting
Dang-it thats right, I remember you saying something about that Schwinn 29er.
I'd like to have on of those frames and I'd put eitheer a 24" or a 26" rear wheel and then 26" with a suspension fork on front for a lower stretched out look.
I like that bike, I bet the standard 44T sprocket gears that 29" wheel similar to what a 26" wheel would be with maybe a 38T.
How is the overall balance of those engines?
should be but id rather put a 36 on this one I bought the hub adapter from kings and it wasn't the right size silly me didn't read the caliper right thought it was 1.50 but it was 1.25 guess I have two of these hub adapters that ill never use oh well live and learn..................how to read LOL
i need to figure out a spacer to turn these 1.50 down to 1.25 then i would be able to use these on the Schwinn midways
The 1.5 hub adapters are for many of the coaster brake hubs like the Shimano CB-E110, Huffy Falcon, K-Stop and a few others, I know you don't use coaster hubs though.
A split bushing could be made and then they could be used on the 1.250 hub size wheels.
If you could find some aluminum tubing with a 1.250 ID and the right wall thickness you could cut a piece, split it and you'd have your bushings to adapter those for the 1.250 hubs.