Wal-Mart bike
- Thread starter Newbikers
- Start date
I'll have to disagree with this.
You do not want to shorten the pin. The length is critical. What will work is to smooth it as much as possible along with the contacting surface of the cam inside the cover. I use a Dremel with a sanding disc to take off just the roughness then a bench buffer with compound to polish the ends of the pin and the cam ramp. Lubricate well with a high quality bearing grease and you'll be pleased with the reduction in clutch lever pull. Just don't shorten that pin.
(Sorry Glen, just based on experience).
Tom
The_Aleman
Active Member
I agree with 2door. You should never have to shorten that pin. I've cleaned the pin up with steel wool, myself. You're better off adjusting the butterfly nut behind the flywheel cover if your clutch is still tight, IMHO.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
Changing the height of the pin isn't going to break in the clutch spring.
Getting out there and riding is what does that.
Getting out there and riding is what does that.
My next project is to add a light system to this bike
I already have the 6V sealed lead acid battery
I am going to build a cage for it out of wire i had and bolt the cage to the seat tube
I'm going to run the headlight and taillight / turn signals from it.
I will recharge the battery every night in my garage!
I already have the 6V sealed lead acid battery
I am going to build a cage for it out of wire i had and bolt the cage to the seat tube
I'm going to run the headlight and taillight / turn signals from it.
I will recharge the battery every night in my garage!
gobigkahuna
New Member
@Newbikers - Pictures, we need pictures! 
@Newbikers - Pictures, we need pictures!
I will add pictures
I am ordering a new rear sprocket soon also
The default one does not work very well with the power band
and i want the go a slower speed
more like 15-20 mph constant.
the sprocket on there now has very good top end but total crap low end and i think that has something to do with the manifold that i built
it works but it changed the power band of the engine by putting more space inbetween the engine and carb
Anyways i will be getting a smaller rear sprocket
Not sure what size i should move to tho but i really need to change out.
I went riding again today about 20 miles and didn't have any problems
It's super easy to ride it but i am still having braking problems
The front disc brake is crapping out on me and i am now trying to figure out what i'll do next
Probably just buy some nice brake pads and use the rear breaks.
GearNut
Active Member
If you want a slower top speed and more get-up-and-go power from a dead stop/ hill climbing torque, you will be very, very unhappy if you change out the rear sprocket for a smaller one. You will want a bigger one instead.
oldtimer54
Member
ya like a 48 or 52.
Crap well i am mad to say the least
I went riding today and noticed that there was some metal shaving on my back tire
IT was the rims
they got cut into from the brake pads actually not being able to stop the engine.
& it's not because of the way I'm driving
I always pull the clutch in along time before i start braking so the brakes aren't fighting the engine
I don't know if the brakes on this bike will be able to stand up to being motorized~!!!!
I went riding today and noticed that there was some metal shaving on my back tire
IT was the rims
they got cut into from the brake pads actually not being able to stop the engine.
& it's not because of the way I'm driving
I always pull the clutch in along time before i start braking so the brakes aren't fighting the engine
I don't know if the brakes on this bike will be able to stand up to being motorized~!!!!
gobigkahuna
New Member
Sorry to hear about your brakes. I've got the same rims as you, so I'd be interested to see what happened if you can post a photo or two. If you're seeing metal slivers, then it's not the brake pads hitting the rims, but either the brake arms or the tabs that hold the brake pads. My guess is the latter. Different brake pads might help, or they may just need to be re-adjusted. I found this thread yesterday on brakes that has some ideas if you need a more "aggressive" solution: http://motorbicycling.com/f53/front-rear-drum-brakes-any-ideas-19221-2.html
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
I really want to see some pics of this, I don't see how your brake pads would be cutting into the rim - especially as how they're brand new. They're powder coated white rims, so you'd definitely see scratches going circular with it cutting through the paint down to the metal if it was the brakes on the rim.
I'm thinking sprocket filings since it's new - but definitely look really close at your bike at any moving part and look for where the white powder coat is scratched down to metal.
You could take the filings and see if their magnetic - if it's motor, it'll be aluminum - so nonferrous, nonmagnetic . If it's bike (and your bike isn't aluminum) it should be some magnetic alloy.
I'm thinking sprocket filings since it's new - but definitely look really close at your bike at any moving part and look for where the white powder coat is scratched down to metal.
You could take the filings and see if their magnetic - if it's motor, it'll be aluminum - so nonferrous, nonmagnetic . If it's bike (and your bike isn't aluminum) it should be some magnetic alloy.
gobigkahuna
New Member
@DuctTapedGoat - His bike is aluminum.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
Hmm.
Look for white paint on the shavings?
Look for white paint on the shavings?
gobigkahuna
New Member
That's what I suspected although I'm surprised it happened in only a few days. Fortunately, pads are easy / cheap enough to replace. How much damage was done to the rims?
seems like alot.
i haven't looked closely tho
i didn't realize the pads were totally burned down till i looked at them.
anyways i'm going to buy new pads today.