Wal-Mart bike

Newbikers said:
When i put the chain tensioner on the bottom, the thing is not sitting straight. How could i bend it to make it fit the chain right?
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Here's a few suggestions.

Find a way to make it work on the bottom! When you're not moving, it looks like your slack is at the top, but when you're riding, all your slack is at the bottom of the chain - which is where you want your tensioner. You don't want your tensioner to be taking the brunt of all the torque right out of the motor, it will not stay where you want it to be near as long as if you had it on the bottom.

The purpose of the tensioner is twofold. Not only does it let you adjust for roughly 3 links worth of chain tension, but it also keeps your chain aligned as it guides onto the driven sprocket - make sure that alignment is good!

Your drive chain being standard bicycle chain is a MAJOR issue! I would very very strongly suggest getting some 410, 415, or some #41. The links are wider and deeper - so you'll really have less problem with it coming off the chain and gives you some side to side play in getting the rear chain alignment proper.

Remove the tensioner, remove the pulley. Put the pulley on backwards, and reverse the bracket's bolts. Put it on now as it looks like it normally would go. This will move the tensioner without angle, and you can end up getting a very clean 1/4" or so of chain direction.

Remove the tensioner, remove the pulley, and take JUST the plate. You can bend the plate to put it where you need it to be if reversing isn't enough. It's strong stuff, so I'd suggest a table vice. BE CAREFUL - you don't want to bend it so much that the pulley won't roll, and you don't want it bent to the point that your chain is cutting into the walls of the pulley.
 
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DuctTapedGoat said:
Here's a few suggestions.

Find a way to make it work on the bottom! When you're not moving, it looks like your slack is at the top, but when you're riding, all your slack is at the bottom of the chain - which is where you want your tensioner. You don't want your tensioner to be taking the brunt of all the torque right out of the motor, it will not stay where you want it to be near as long as if you had it on the bottom.

The purpose of the tensioner is twofold. Not only does it let you adjust for roughly 3 links worth of chain tension, but it also keeps your chain aligned as it guides onto the driven sprocket - make sure that alignment is good!

Your drive chain being standard bicycle chain is a MAJOR issue! I would very very strongly suggest getting some 410, 415, or some #41. The links are wider and deeper - so you'll really have less problem with it coming off the chain and gives you some side to side play in getting the rear chain alignment proper.

Remove the tensioner, remove the pulley. Put the pulley on backwards, and reverse the bracket's bolts. Put it on now as it looks like it normally would go. This will move the tensioner without angle, and you can end up getting a very clean 1/4" or so of chain direction.

Remove the tensioner, remove the pulley, and take JUST the plate. You can bend the plate to put it where you need it to be if reversing isn't enough. It's strong stuff, so I'd suggest a table vice. BE CAREFUL - you don't want to bend it so much that the pulley won't roll, and you don't want it bent to the point that your chain is cutting into the walls of the pulley.
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your 1st point is really obvious
when i had the bike in the stand when you spin the wheel it puts all the tension on the top

problem is this.
when i 1st tested the bike out and blew my chain out.
the tensioner was on the BOTTOM.

so i switched it to the top. where it was straight and i was able to ride around for a long time today.

Anyways when i put the tensioner on the bottom it wont sit right

the metal plate is so thick i dont think i can bend it and i dont have a vice either.

I'm probably going to put a shim under one side to level it out

unledbod.png



My chainstays on the bottom are bent really weird
so the tensioner does not sit right no matter what i do.
 
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I was out today and had a close look at your bike at Wally World. Nice looking machine. Those rims are weird to say the least.

Duct Tape gives good advice. Every bike I've built and used a tensioner on required that the tensioner bracket be 'twisted' a tad to get proper alignment with the chain path. A point that is never included in the kit instructions and causes a lot of problems for first time builders. A bench vice, or two big wrenches and some muscle are required to twist the bracket. Maybe a local auto repair shop or hardware store will help you and/or let you use their vice. Alignment and tension are critical to give you a trouble free drive system. Keep working at it until things do not look like your drawing. Both sprockets, drive and driven, tensioner wheel and chain must be straight.

Shoot for 1/2 to 3/4" slack in the chain measured by rolling the bike forward with the clutch engaged. You'll be measuring on the top chain run.
Duct tape is also correct when he says the tension is on the top run of the chain when the engine is driving the bike so the slack needs to be taken up on the bottom run.
Hope this helps a little.
Tom
 
A pair of crescent wrenches should do the trick. You can leave the idler bracket on the bike, have a wrench for each hand and twist. Those idler brackets aren't that strong. I've never had trouble bending em by hand.
 
Newbikers said:
your 1st point is really obvious
when i had the bike in the stand when you spin the wheel it puts all the tension on the top

problem is this.
when i 1st tested the bike out and blew my chain out.
the tensioner was on the BOTTOM.

so i switched it to the top. where it was straight and i was able to ride around for a long time today.

Anyways when i put the tensioner on the bottom it wont sit right

the metal plate is so thick i dont think i can bend it and i dont have a vice either.

I'm probably going to put a shim under one side to level it out

unledbod.png



My chainstays on the bottom are bent really weird
so the tensioner does not sit right no matter what i do.
Click to expand...

For my chainstay which tapers, I purchased a BGF 4 bolt bearinged tensioner - took care of a lot of my tensioner problems, and he was the only one I could find that was guaranteed to be 4 bolt 2 bracket and with bearings. Though, you probably could just get some steel brackets and drill through the old one, but I couldn't guarantee it. I wouldn't really recommend shimming - though you should be fine if you are sure it's not "floating", or in other words, make sure it's attached, like with JB Weld, LockTite, something of that to the tensioner so it doesn't slip on you.

I second - two crescent wrenches would be great to adjust it. Be sure to keep it going onto your sprocket properly.
 
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Well guys i want to give thanks to everyones advice
I ended up taking 2 crescent wrenches

Sliding onto the bars on both sides
and bending the metal to straighten the roller true with the chain

Then i was able to align the whole setup and take a bit of the slack out of it.

I guess that is the reason my chain broke on the 1st ride.
The tensioner was bend sending the chain in a odd direction causing the chain to jump on the engine sprocket and ultimately destroying a link

Now everything is perfectly true. to line of sight
And my rear sprocket is centered VERY WELL.

I dont have any loose or tight spots in my chain now. i am very happy to say
and i was able to bend the exhaust out some so it wont burn my frame anymore.

I'll go for a test drive as soon as i can, its 12pm here and i'm not trying to wake up the neighborhood

Here is some good pictures i took to show my work.

20110514001901519.jpg

2011051400175815.jpg

20110514001809368.jpg
 
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That looks great. Please let us know how things go.
You might want to do some reading about that tensioner bracket too. There's been loads of discussion on how to keep it from loosening and rotating into your rear wheel/spokes. That can really spoil your day. I'm not going to suggest anything because it's a subject that seems to start arguments. Suffice it to say you'll want to make sure the bracket stays put.


Good luck.

Tom
 
2door said:
That looks great. Please let us know how things go.
You might want to do some reading about that tensioner bracket too. There's been loads of discussion on how to keep it from loosening and rotating into your rear wheel/spokes. That can really spoil your day. I'm not going to suggest anything because it's a subject that seems to start arguments. Suffice it to say you'll want to make sure the bracket stays put.


Good luck.

Tom
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2Door i dont think it will if anyone else has this frame they would see what i'm talking about

where they bend the chainstays it made them flat and rectangular shape

I had a heck of a time even getting the bracked on there lol
it does not like to move side to side once its got either bolt hooked up

thanks for the advice tho
if it ever causes a problem and breaks spokes or something i will probably just drill a small hole into the chainstay and bolt it on that way
 
If you are prepared to drill into the chainstay - you may as well do it now and save yourself/extend the life of your wheel. But if you do, don't go ALL the way through both sides of the tube/chainstay. Just through one layer of metal, and tap that with threads and locktite it.

Though - I would say not to be prepared to drill into it. There are lots of avenues (that don't cost money) that you can take that don't compromise frame integrity, and that's really a big spot for it.

Square chainstay! Let's get some ideas flowing on how to solve this one with a tensioner - Newbikers isn't the first, and surely not the last - so we may as well nip this one in the bud and get a good solid solution for it.
 
DuctTapedGoat said:
If you are prepared to drill into the chainstay - you may as well do it now and save yourself/extend the life of your wheel. But if you do, don't go ALL the way through both sides of the tube/chainstay. Just through one layer of metal, and tap that with threads and locktite it.

Though - I would say not to be prepared to drill into it. There are lots of avenues (that don't cost money) that you can take that don't compromise frame integrity, and that's really a big spot for it.

Square chainstay! Let's get some ideas flowing on how to solve this one with a tensioner - Newbikers isn't the first, and surely not the last - so we may as well nip this one in the bud and get a good solid solution for it.
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JB weld would work
I made my intake manifold out of it

Holds like a charm
and the best part is the intake manifold does not get very hot
the weld can hold upto 500degrees

It's good if you use it like pipe dope and then let the parts cure
i dont think i could get them apart now if i tried LOL!
 
There you go - and if you wanted to remove it down the line, use a heatgun (20 dollar tool, sold for use in removing paint) works great for removing JB Weld/LockTite styled products.
 
DuctTapedGoat said:
There you go - and if you wanted to remove it down the line, use a heatgun (20 dollar tool, sold for use in removing paint) works great for removing JB Weld/LockTite styled products.
Click to expand...

Good idea

I just took my front deraiuler / brake groupo off
So i just have the clutch on the left now

Front break and shifts on the right

makes a much cleaner look without the 2 added cables

I'm trying to decide between using the front disc or the rear Vbrake tho

The front disc is not very powerful against the motor
sadly not as powerful as i was hoping.

Anyways atleast the main problems are fixed
drive train is working nice now


Any ideas where i could get a nicer chain like a heavy duty one for a cheap price
i don't have much money but would like to get a thicker chain!
 
Using ONLY front brakes is incredibly dangerous, especially in the event of an emergency stop.

I hate to keep mentioning things that require ordering aftermarket parts, but honestly, there's not so many quick fixes for the great products that are out there.

I'd suggest picking up a dual pull brake lever so you can take advantage of both of your brakes.

There is a thread around here talking about using the rear driven sprocket as a rear disc brake, though it's sketchy to say the least at this point.

A thought is possibly using silver solder and joining both of your brake cables to the same lever - though it would make cable replacement difficult, the immediate results and cost effectiveness would be valid. You could remove the stopper bit of metal and join them there, or find another way to get that to work. Saves 10 to 20 bucks right there.

As far as cheap chain - 11.99 online here 415 heavy duty chain . You can also hit up local bicycle shops for either 415/410 or BMX Stunt Chain. If you have a tractor supply store or any equivalent around, you can get some #41 from there (usually).
 
DuctTapedGoat said:
Using ONLY front brakes is incredibly dangerous, especially in the event of an emergency stop.

I hate to keep mentioning things that require ordering aftermarket parts, but honestly, there's not so many quick fixes for the great products that are out there.

I'd suggest picking up a dual pull brake lever so you can take advantage of both of your brakes.

There is a thread around here talking about using the rear driven sprocket as a rear disc brake, though it's sketchy to say the least at this point.

A thought is possibly using silver solder and joining both of your brake cables to the same lever - though it would make cable replacement difficult, the immediate results and cost effectiveness would be valid. You could remove the stopper bit of metal and join them there, or find another way to get that to work. Saves 10 to 20 bucks right there.

As far as cheap chain - 11.99 online here 415 heavy duty chain . You can also hit up local bicycle shops for either 415/410 or BMX Stunt Chain. If you have a tractor supply store or any equivalent around, you can get some #41 from there (usually).
Click to expand...

Ya i see everyone telling to order new parts for this thing
new spark plug boot
dual brake lever
new kick stands
new chains
new this
new that

the lists go on but
i cant afford anything right now

i was so poor i rebuilt my chain using flathead screwdrivers and a Cclamp
pushing the chain links out with a hammer and flat head
it worked but took more time

at least i didn't spend money on another tool tho.
 
Just went to the store about 1 mile away

Bike rode awesome.
It has more speed now that its cooler air. for some reason i guess a lean condition because of the needle being set 1 clip down.

Anyways chain is not hanging at all
I am so excited!
 
Newbikers said:
Just went to the store about 1 mile away

Bike rode awesome.
It has more speed now that its cooler air. for some reason i guess a lean condition because of the needle being set 1 clip down.

Anyways chain is not hanging at all
I am so excited!
Click to expand...


Congrats man! I should be getting my engine soon, like you, I am very limited on funds as well. I'm glad to see it can be done on our bike.

Awesome Man!!!!!! dance1
 
Congratulations. Glad you're on the rode.

Brakes: I didn't understand one of your comments where you said the front disc would not hold against the engine. If I understood that right I'd have to ask why you're trying to stop/brake against engine power. Pull the clutch in and brake. There's no need to brake against power. You can use engine compresion to help slow you but then you need to disengage the clutch and rely on brakes.
I'd opt for two wheel brakes. Relying on just one wheel is not a good idea.
Good luck, ride safe.
Tom
 
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