Harry check out this build something different but a awesome build,how he aged the metal and all Speed Bike http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=32238
Villiers beach cruiser
- Thread starter harry76
- Start date
harry76
Well-Known Member
Yeah i know that bike well. Its a personal favourite of mine. Very unique build, he really built a bike and wasnt imitating anything hed seen..... I was following some of that build over at Ratrodbikes, i never imagined it would turn out as well as it did. I just love the front view of the bike, looks like its going 100mph just sitting there.
motorhedfred
Member
I like it too. Normally, I'm not a fan of a lot of extranious/nonfunctional stuff.....I guess that's part of the rat bike style. I do very much like the idea of a fairing to keep the engine from prying law enforcement eyes.
There used to be a very lightweight aluminum available cheap from the local newspaper printing company the would work well to fab up a fairing. It's .009 thick and if it's backed up by a layer of bonded fiberglass mat, it gets pretty stiff and dent resistant. That would give you the sheet metal look without the weight.
MHF
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that link....
My motor bike I want to be OHV dirt bike with occasional mutant vehicle look. I got ideas from that guys rat rod that should help make a sheepshead fish skeleton frame for the fish fabric cover. I will probably use lighter material than the metal that I see he is using to go on the tube from fork going diagonally back to base of the down tube. I like the bowing shape, I sort of think like stringers for boat or aircraft, but I will use carbon fiber or fiberglass windsurf sail batons I have a ton of from old or ripped trashed sails. The cotton fabric I already have for the skin.
MT
My motor bike I want to be OHV dirt bike with occasional mutant vehicle look. I got ideas from that guys rat rod that should help make a sheepshead fish skeleton frame for the fish fabric cover. I will probably use lighter material than the metal that I see he is using to go on the tube from fork going diagonally back to base of the down tube. I like the bowing shape, I sort of think like stringers for boat or aircraft, but I will use carbon fiber or fiberglass windsurf sail batons I have a ton of from old or ripped trashed sails. The cotton fabric I already have for the skin.
MT
harry76
Well-Known Member
Hey WILROD, dunno if you are aware, but I just saw your bike in the "Live To Ride" "Hard At Work" magazine.
I work at a paper mill and one of the perks of the job is we get to read all the magazines the news agents drop off to recycle. The magazine is missing its front cover (that gets returned to publishers) so I'm not sure which issue it was, but if you want it I'd be happy to send it to you. Your bike shot takes up half a page, I'm guessing the shot is from the customnats..... Looks awesome!!!!!! Just thought you should know if you don't already.
I work at a paper mill and one of the perks of the job is we get to read all the magazines the news agents drop off to recycle. The magazine is missing its front cover (that gets returned to publishers) so I'm not sure which issue it was, but if you want it I'd be happy to send it to you. Your bike shot takes up half a page, I'm guessing the shot is from the customnats..... Looks awesome!!!!!! Just thought you should know if you don't already.
harry76
Well-Known Member
Im updating a few of the cosmetic things on my bike that are bothering me.
I received my bandbrake to replace my disc brake yesterday and trying to figure out the best way to mount it, ill have to make an adaptor plate and spacer.
I found an old knob on an unused truck at work, i went and bought a bolt to suit an will fit it to the end of my hand shift lever.
I also went to the bike shop today to get a spoke to replace the broken one and see if they had anything to make my front hub accept a solid axle. As its a modern disc brake hub it has a skewer which bothers me, i know i could replace the hub with a more vintage style but i dont wish to spend the extra money. The front hub is a unoversal one that accepts both mountainbike skewers and a 20mm thru axle.
So i went to the bike shop and asked if they had adaptors or knew of a way to make it accept a solid vintage style axle...... the bike mechanic said there was no way to do it. I then asked if i tapped the end pieces if that would work, he was quite rude and said there was no way to do it, he almost laughed at my suggestion and looked at me if i was from another planet. I explained my situation and said i realise it was an odd request but he still just gave me a dirty look and once again said it wont work!!!!!!!!
So i left and went to buy a tap from the local bolt shop, they didnt have one but ordered one for me, while im waiting for the tap, i thought i better see what you guys think, i think my idea will be fine but dont want to wreck my hub.
Here is the hub complete, you can see where the skewer goes through
Here it is with the end adaptors unscrewed (these are the pieces i plan to tap a thread into), and you can see the adaptor piece inside
This is the middle adaptor piece, and you can now see how the hub is designed to take a 20mm thru axle
Adaptor piece and end pieces
Adaptor piece and axle i had at home
So i
I received my bandbrake to replace my disc brake yesterday and trying to figure out the best way to mount it, ill have to make an adaptor plate and spacer.
I found an old knob on an unused truck at work, i went and bought a bolt to suit an will fit it to the end of my hand shift lever.
I also went to the bike shop today to get a spoke to replace the broken one and see if they had anything to make my front hub accept a solid axle. As its a modern disc brake hub it has a skewer which bothers me, i know i could replace the hub with a more vintage style but i dont wish to spend the extra money. The front hub is a unoversal one that accepts both mountainbike skewers and a 20mm thru axle.
So i went to the bike shop and asked if they had adaptors or knew of a way to make it accept a solid vintage style axle...... the bike mechanic said there was no way to do it. I then asked if i tapped the end pieces if that would work, he was quite rude and said there was no way to do it, he almost laughed at my suggestion and looked at me if i was from another planet. I explained my situation and said i realise it was an odd request but he still just gave me a dirty look and once again said it wont work!!!!!!!!
So i left and went to buy a tap from the local bolt shop, they didnt have one but ordered one for me, while im waiting for the tap, i thought i better see what you guys think, i think my idea will be fine but dont want to wreck my hub.
Here is the hub complete, you can see where the skewer goes through
Here it is with the end adaptors unscrewed (these are the pieces i plan to tap a thread into), and you can see the adaptor piece inside
This is the middle adaptor piece, and you can now see how the hub is designed to take a 20mm thru axle
Adaptor piece and end pieces
Adaptor piece and axle i had at home
So i
harry76
Well-Known Member
Heres a better view of the end cap
And a couple of pics of the end caps i want to tap a thread into to accept the axle
So i hope i explained what i wish to do ok, the bike shop mechanic didnt really wish to tell me why he didnt think it would work other then to just say "there is NO WAY to do it".
The way i see it my idea will not only work but will be stronger then what was there previously.... that axle will be stronger then that end piece of aluminium. And as im threading it the axle wont move, and it will be mounted very much the same as the skewer was...... thoughts anyone?????
And a couple of pics of the end caps i want to tap a thread into to accept the axle
So i hope i explained what i wish to do ok, the bike shop mechanic didnt really wish to tell me why he didnt think it would work other then to just say "there is NO WAY to do it".
The way i see it my idea will not only work but will be stronger then what was there previously.... that axle will be stronger then that end piece of aluminium. And as im threading it the axle wont move, and it will be mounted very much the same as the skewer was...... thoughts anyone?????
Goldy
Member
Many 'mechanics' only know how to do repair by replacement jobs. So often they have no training at all in machining or fabrication...and some people just can't think outside the box. He probably just thinks your some kind of stupid know-nothing-bohunk. Make it work YOUR way, then take it back and wave it under his nose.
Mr.B.
Well-Known Member
I also agree. Great tip on holding the tap in a drill press to keep it straight. I've been doing that for years and it works really well. Your idea looks good. You're a natural fabficator.
I also use my lathe a lot same there put the tap in the drill chuck,good for small stuff.........Curt
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
Too bad you get that from the tech there at the bike shop. You know what’s important and you do as necessary.
I get the idea of you wanting to get a better strength of the axle.
I can say that the quick release hubs on the 26 inch rims wheels I have a few of from scavenged dumpster diving are seemingly not what I wanted on my motor bike. I found some others that didn't have that thing sleeve with a looks like 8-32 thread inside for the clasp to tighten down the axle. The outer sleeve which sits in the dropouts are a hair thicker and that is not what I can say looks sturdy for a machine with a motor and torque.
I can say I have made my washing machine pulley drive on the rear wheel and now I need to have it trued up a little bit, so the tech at the REI store I go to said that they would try to true it for me with the pulley mounted on it. At first he was thinking I would take it off and then he trues it and I put it back on. I explained that it was trued by their store before the pulley was put on and that it threw it out some when I added the pulley. I was bringing it back again for minor true. This guy understood. I’m going to put thread lock on my pulley mounts and bring it back for them to get final true.
I’m considering taking a class at the Park Tool location near me where classes are giving, but will try messing with some of these weaker quick release hubs that I have extra of to practice on and view some videos on how to learn on Youtube. Then I can be sure to not get any guff. The REI people I have had good success with, just there was a hiring manager I was talking to about a job and they seemed a bit heated and rude when I applied for a job there. I have most my background in electronics, but know about mechanics and camping from hobby and didn’t expect what I experienced.
Forget that guy in the shop and what was said about them being not able to think outside the box is probably the way it is for many, so thankfully you are not that kind!
Harry there is one thing I was doing when I was using a die to make threads recently and I think it helps start the cut. I first make sure I have a little extra length that I can cut off the first few threads in case they are not good for the start. I can cut the length later to make it what I need. I bevel the edge of the round stock a little on the end to start the die on. I apply cutting fluid and wipe the shavings from the ¼ back turn I do every turn to help remove the turning from messing up further cut.
I did not need to do any tapping as I find stuff already made the shape size I need usually and it is simpler that way.
MT
I get the idea of you wanting to get a better strength of the axle.
I can say that the quick release hubs on the 26 inch rims wheels I have a few of from scavenged dumpster diving are seemingly not what I wanted on my motor bike. I found some others that didn't have that thing sleeve with a looks like 8-32 thread inside for the clasp to tighten down the axle. The outer sleeve which sits in the dropouts are a hair thicker and that is not what I can say looks sturdy for a machine with a motor and torque.
I can say I have made my washing machine pulley drive on the rear wheel and now I need to have it trued up a little bit, so the tech at the REI store I go to said that they would try to true it for me with the pulley mounted on it. At first he was thinking I would take it off and then he trues it and I put it back on. I explained that it was trued by their store before the pulley was put on and that it threw it out some when I added the pulley. I was bringing it back again for minor true. This guy understood. I’m going to put thread lock on my pulley mounts and bring it back for them to get final true.
I’m considering taking a class at the Park Tool location near me where classes are giving, but will try messing with some of these weaker quick release hubs that I have extra of to practice on and view some videos on how to learn on Youtube. Then I can be sure to not get any guff. The REI people I have had good success with, just there was a hiring manager I was talking to about a job and they seemed a bit heated and rude when I applied for a job there. I have most my background in electronics, but know about mechanics and camping from hobby and didn’t expect what I experienced.
Forget that guy in the shop and what was said about them being not able to think outside the box is probably the way it is for many, so thankfully you are not that kind!
Harry there is one thing I was doing when I was using a die to make threads recently and I think it helps start the cut. I first make sure I have a little extra length that I can cut off the first few threads in case they are not good for the start. I can cut the length later to make it what I need. I bevel the edge of the round stock a little on the end to start the die on. I apply cutting fluid and wipe the shavings from the ¼ back turn I do every turn to help remove the turning from messing up further cut.
I did not need to do any tapping as I find stuff already made the shape size I need usually and it is simpler that way.
MT
harry76
Well-Known Member
Thanks Curtisfox, i hadnt thought of using my drill press by hand, i will do that for sure.
And Rustycase, i will be tapping the end pieces, and those end pieces screw into the adaptor piece so there will be no side movement, im guessing this is what the bike mechanic was concerned with. But the original skewer actually has nothing to stop side movement besides when the wheel is tightened up...... and yes you are correct that entire setup is there only to accomodate the skewer but is also meant for a 20mm thru axle that are used on downhill bikes.
I actually have another set of similar wheels so i will be repeating this process if i dont have any problems, and i cant forsee i will, but im not trained in any of this and when a "mechanic" tells you something wont work it can make you doubt yourself. I feel fine now you guys agree. Thanks guys!!!!!!
Now i just need a way to age those hubs a little, i dont mind the current black but they have the brand names on them so i think i will just roughly paint them by brush with black paint unless someone has a better idea
And Rustycase, i will be tapping the end pieces, and those end pieces screw into the adaptor piece so there will be no side movement, im guessing this is what the bike mechanic was concerned with. But the original skewer actually has nothing to stop side movement besides when the wheel is tightened up...... and yes you are correct that entire setup is there only to accomodate the skewer but is also meant for a 20mm thru axle that are used on downhill bikes.
I actually have another set of similar wheels so i will be repeating this process if i dont have any problems, and i cant forsee i will, but im not trained in any of this and when a "mechanic" tells you something wont work it can make you doubt yourself. I feel fine now you guys agree. Thanks guys!!!!!!
Now i just need a way to age those hubs a little, i dont mind the current black but they have the brand names on them so i think i will just roughly paint them by brush with black paint unless someone has a better idea
