Villiers beach cruiser

[harry76]

Thanks Fasteddy, i have heard of this. I may do this if i cant find an alloy pulley cheap enough, but i think an alloy idler pulley will look a lot better. If i get a small pulley, the next belt size up the machinist said it wouldnt cost much to machine the vbelt to suit the back of a belt (square off the inner tapered edge). I just like the look of my pulley and clutch arm and when i add a matching primary drive pulley i think it will have a very mechanical look and the alloy idler pulley will help a lot. But thanks again, i always aprreciate advice.

 

[silverbear]

Yes, a metal pulley will look better and more in keeping with an old time appearance. The skateboard wheels make great chain tensioner wheels when modified with a channel or groove for the chain to ride in... or in your case a belt. They have good bearings and give little resistance which is why I thought of it. Also thinking of the great chunk of money everything else cost you. But a little pulley shouldn't cost all that much, right? If it does, get a black skate board wheel and it will blend in pretty well. You don't need to cut the head off the bolt if you do make one... the bolt is just for being able to chuck it in the drill while milling the channel.
You're getting closer... keeping me in suspenders!
Tomorrow I will appear at the welder's shop in hopes of the worksman frame being ready... if not will make squeaking sounds as in the wheel needing grease, letting him know I am here waiting. So glad to be able to follow your build and Cam's. Cool bikes!
SB

 

[harry76]

Haha squeaky sounds would make me work faster too. Cant wait to see your bike also SB.

I actually dont have that much money in this thing. I never keep track but if my memory serves....
Bike: free
Wheels: $40 (i think)
Tank: free (so far)
Motor: $50
Tyres: $90
Disc brakes: already had
Forks: $100
Steel: free (work and a shop)
Stainless Steel brackets: free (work)
Jackshaft and pulleys: around $200
Sheave: already had

I still need to buy pedals (metal) and v-belts. So not too bad i dont think. And the machinist said a pulley built from scratch would cost around $60 or about $10 if i found one he could modify. The bearing shop where i got the pulleys didnt have pulleys small enough. Maybe i could find something at the wreckers in late model cars?

 

[harry76]

I took the pulleys back to the shop and swapped them for a 4" and a 2 1/2" pulley. Im gonna drill them today. Public holiday here on Monday so on Tuesday ill go and see the machinist again about my shaft and sort out the idler pulley.

Im also going to get my fork threads lengthened. I need to get my tank tig'd, sort out my fuel line, do the final welding, get some V-belts when my jackshaft is steup, shifter and gate, and itll be time to see if this thing is gonna work.....

 

[harry76]

Speaking of pedals, i think this bike has 1/2" pedal thread. Its different to my mountain bikes and vintage bikes. I looked on Ebay but all i could find was the vintage style black rubber pedals with reflectors. Id love a rusty set of steel pedals. I need to replace these plastic pedals... anyone know where id get something like that?

 

[harry76]

I drilled my other pulley and test mounted it (trusty zip ties), and i thin it looks nice, much like a primary drive on a motorcycle would look.

 

[harry76]

SCORE!!!! I found an old fire extinguisher they threw out at work, i see a furl tank in its future

I also made my Jackshaft at work last night. It will be welded to my seattube, if it needs extra support ill brace it across the engine mounts. I just need to wait til i go to my friends to use his welder, and i need to taper it a little more to allow for the rear wheel to be removed..... otherwise i might cut off my dropouts and spin them around and weld them back on to make horizontal dropouts.

 

[harry76]

 

[harry76]

Drilled some mounting holes, got some bolts for the jackshaft. Just need to taper the middle piece to fit the seatpost. In one of the photos the bearing isnt straight, but when i install my shaft and tighten it, it will be dead straight..... just need to weld it up. But i need to get my shaft made, thats next.

 

[harry76]

I have these Monarch forks that i have a question about. Being from Australia we dont see these forks. So im wondering if theres a pice missing on the bottom of the legs. The pivot point bracket has play in it. Is that play ok or should i make a plastic washer to take the play out?

 

[fasteddy]

Harry,
The fender braces would have taken up the slack when you tightened up the nut on the bolt. I'd put a washer in it but I think a plastic one would wear out in a hurry.

Steve.

 

[harry76]

Front fender...... Oh of course. Thanks Steve much appreciated!!!! I'll find a washer

 

[msrfan]

Very nice bearing and bracket assembly. Looks like a clean and compact way to go. The rockers on the bottom of the forks need to be as snug as you can make them without binding. Any side play could end up a wobble at speed. Great job.

 

[harry76]

Thanks msrfan....

Looks like my jackshaft will work. I just need to get a shaft made and make the smaller rear jackshaft pulley thinner.

I thought id try and modify the mower handle into my shifter, dont know if ill keep it, if i do ill taper it down a little to look better. Or make a new one with tubing.......
I also have that mower handle i could cut down for a knob but i think it would still be a little large.

 

[harry76]

 

[Cam Nz]

I think Its looking really sweet dude, shifter handle might be a bit bulky but I still think its in proportion, the jack shaft looks neat, great fab skills : - )

Cheers, Cam.

 

[harry76]

Yeah the shifter handle was that wide so i was planning to gring it down til i like it. I may also cut the shifter so the handle is further along the tank. And i think it needs a knob, but then again some old leather strap wrapped around the top of the shifter would look alright too..... I coud also put some lightening holes in the shifter too, but that may be overkill with the holes.

I also need to work out a gate for the shifter on the tank.

Ive also started looking at my kickstarters to see if i can make onework while not too bulky by the time i add mounts.

 

[harry76]

I wnet and bought a small pulley, then went to the machinist. Hes going to machine down this pulley to the same size as the black plastic idler pulley in picture. I am also getting him to machine a little off (Make thinner) the smaller pulley on the jackshaft, and also bore out the centre to press fit two bearings. Hes also making me a 5/8 shaft. It should be ready by the end of the week. So hopefully, providing i dont have any dramas, should have this going by next week

I also went to buy some new copper fuel line. The smallest i could get was 6mm (1/4")

But now im thinking id rather try and clean the older line i had. Its well worn and looks alot better being a little thinner. I just hope it is big enough. The new copper is 1/4" and im guessing the old line is 1/8". Is the 1/8 big enough? It was off a stationary engine (not this one but) so it must be alright, i hope

 

[harry76]

Theres another Villiers project on the horizon. I saw a thead in the motor troubleshooting section by BASLOK called mkviii Villiers. Its a 1948, not the slanthead but very very beautiful.

 

[harry76]

I thinned out the shift handle a little, i think it looks better.