This was a first!!

Venice Motor Bikes

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
I was riding home friday night on the copper Schwinn.
Everthing was fine, the bike was running strong then all of a sudden the bike lost all power...
This is what I found to be the problem!!! :eek:
Luckily, I was only 5 blocks from home!

brokencarb.jpg
 
seeing stuff like that always makes me think, "what if that happened to me and i was ten miles from home?"

if there's a home depot or an auto parts store, no probs, but what if it was the middle of the night?

maybe i could break off a sprinkler in a park or an apartment complex, rip out a piece of the pvc line, jam it into the carb and jam the other end into the broken intake.

that'd get me home...

oh, and that sucks, Norm. how heavy is that custom air cleaner you got?
 
Venice,

I would bet that the intake isn't round, or possibly undersize.

The carb is die cast. By design the outlet, (slit end), of the carb is only meant to compress a few thousandth's of an inch when tightening the clamp. Compress the slit portion around an undersize tube, (intake), and the cast material will be stressed and ready to let go. Add a little vibration and snap!

The carb should be a snug fit with the clamp loose. If the carb flops around on the intake, the bottom of the slits will be stressed when the clamp is tightened...which is what appears to have happened.

Jim
 
Wow, Norm, pi**er... I'm in total agreement with Jim and the reason why I stress not overtightening the carb clamp to newbies. I like to rely more on a good silicone seal than the clamp, slots and intake. At least you have the means to simply replace the carburetor so you'll be back on the road quickly and know what to look for and how to fix it. I might add that I always sand the intake where the carb goes to give the silicone a good bite. I had a steel chromed intake that even after the silicone set the carb was not tight and I had an air leak. After I sanded it...no problem. Use course sand cloth, maybe 180 grit.
Tom
 
2door said:
Wow, Norm, pi**er... I'm in total agreement with Jim and the reason why I stress not overtightening the carb clamp to newbies. I like to rely more on a good silicone seal than the clamp, slots and intake. At least you have the means to simply replace the carburetor so you'll be back on the road quickly and know what to look for and how to fix it. I might add that I always sand the intake where the carb goes to give the silicone a good bite. I had a steel chromed intake that even after the silicone set the carb was not tight and I had an air leak. After I sanded it...no problem. Use course sand cloth, maybe 180 grit.
Tom
Click to expand...

The manifold is the same as all my other engines... & the carb slid on it nice n snug (just like all the others) when I installed it. I think it was probably a combination of several small problems that all added up... (heavy air filter, maybe a slight defect in the carb, & racing the s**t out of the bike!) :D
 
i have a delloroto carb with a plastic inner sleve for a good seal should i still worry about this happening to mine or is this something more common on the cheap china ???
 
Any spigot mounted carb has the possibility to do that. I think that you are good to go with a DelOrto carb though. The metal alloy is leaps and bounds better that the cheap chinese alloy.
 
bairdco said:
then what are you gonna do for 4-6 hours, or maybe even 15 while it cures?
Click to expand...


J-B Weld Company - J-B STIK Product Information


I really thought you guys would be more familiar with JB. It did suck for holding together a CVT on the output side, but I think it would hold a carb with no problem (at least long enough to get home) and the cure time is about 20 minutes, not 4-6 - 15 hours. It's an epoxy putty, not the 2 little tubes of liquid.
 
civlized said:
J-B Weld Company - J-B STIK Product Information


I really thought you guys would be more familiar with JB. It did suck for holding together a CVT on the output side, but I think it would hold a carb with no problem (at least long enough to get home) and the cure time is about 20 minutes, not 4-6 - 15 hours. It's an epoxy putty, not the 2 little tubes of liquid.
Click to expand...
Its still just dimestore glue. If you want to use an epoxy product check here> ITW Devcon | Two of the most recognized brands in all of industry; Devcon® and Permatex®. Expensive, but you get what you pay for.
Tom
 
civlized said:
J-B Weld Company - J-B STIK Product Information


I really thought you guys would be more familiar with JB. It did suck for holding together a CVT on the output side, but I think it would hold a carb with no problem (at least long enough to get home) and the cure time is about 20 minutes, not 4-6 - 15 hours. It's an epoxy putty, not the 2 little tubes of liquid.
Click to expand...

Doood... these carbs only cost $10 & I have plenty of them laying around... no need for JB. ;)
 
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