spit_fire
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Jan 15, 2016 at 5:43 PM
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spit_fire

New Member, from Brampton

spit_fire was last seen:
Jan 15, 2016
    1. spit_fire
      spit_fire
      i looked inside each of the shoes and didint see any but i guess ill take a second look hopefully thats all there is to it, and yes i cant wait to tune up my carb, i bought the engine used so the carb was already set but id like to mess around with it myself and see what i can do but im going to have to wait till spring to trully mess around as we just got out first bit of snow today and it is mighty cold outside! and all i wanna do is play with my bike :(
    2. Goat Herder
      Goat Herder
      Last while I have you confused lol. Clutch washer shims can be changed to match gearing. These // ''not these ( ) ('' My present top speed is 40 miles an hour...
    3. Goat Herder
      Goat Herder
      Also the S6S bell I have and the Morini Usa bell are identical in their measured dimensions. The shoes look about the same on my S6C style replacement clutch I have on stand by.



      You will find the sooner your adjust your clutch to engage the longer it will take to reach speed. It creates a less powerful run.
    4. Goat Herder
      Goat Herder
      Well I currently run ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( / / Puts my stall just under 8000.. I removed just one of my small shims. I am gonna make a custom set of shims from a feeler gouge set and bring it up a tiny tiny bit. I like the high stall my self.

      A lot of my transition in speed with my bike from cruise to said lock up feeling smoothed out a bit after I finally learned how to tune the 19 and 21mm carby's. Lemme tell ya that it did take me a while to figure out the big carby's but truly I enjoyed every miserable frustrated minute of it. I was almost bored looking for something else to do. Our hobbies lol

      Totally ignore this config (( )) (( )) (( )) ( ) / also that video shows a very similar clutch but an entirely different motor. Way more powerful!

      As for the shims not being present in your clutch are you sure they are not just stuck at the bottom of the shoes and simply not popped out? They hide there very easily is why I ask.
    5. spit_fire
      spit_fire
      and as well as i have a question on another thread you said to set up the clucth like so (( )) (( )) (( )) ( ) / what do you mean by (( is that two of those lil washers sitting in each other ? also i want to thank you for helping me out with all of this you are more help than you think !
    6. spit_fire
      spit_fire
      does that make any sense to you? now my second question is...is that how fast this bike should be off the like (i can lift the front tire off the ground just by leaning back) and can i achieve that kind of acceleration by messing around with the clutch? now those .5mm shimms you talk about that ur sapose to put underneath the stack my clucth did not come with any i just have the spring washer like so ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) (i dont remember if it was 4-5 stacks) but no shims so i still quite havent firgure out what i need to do, i was going to remove one of the spring washers and let the other half rest inside the clucth shoe like this ( )( ) ( ) ( (and see if that lets the clucth engage harder at lower rpm so i can get moving quicker (the stock set up is ment for 8000rpm according to the paper it came with
    7. spit_fire
      spit_fire
      thnx goat i was going to run 80:1 but if you say the manufacturer calls for 50:1 that is what im going to do, i spent to much time and money on this engine to fry it just cus i leaned out the oil fuel mixture, now on another note i got the clutch to work with the old brass bushing and what i notice is everytime i fire it up and take it for a ride the first enitial wot the bike take off like a bat out of **** right of the go but every time after that it feals like my 2 shoe clutch, the engine revs nice and healthy the clutch slips as it should and i slowly make it up to speed till i hit higher speed than i feal the clutch lock up and off i go with a grin on my face, now my only explenation for this is new clucth and maybe the fricition material isint quite soaked in and it feals like the clucth is maybe dry that first enitial pull thats why it grabs so good (less oil to lubricate as the oil settles to the bottom over night),
    8. Goat Herder
      Goat Herder
      Oil has come a long way these days I guess anything is possible. I am still of the belief that my heavier oiling promotes more compression sealing at the rings thus more power.

      Yul be the first I heard of running the Morini @ 100 to one.
    9. Goat Herder
      Goat Herder
      B.A. and others in that thread have often fell back to one thing.. Go with what the manufacture recommends. The Morini specs sheet says 50 to one. I run mine that way and life has been lovy.

      I don't know of any of the fellow Morini owners that have run less than that. The average mebbe around 35 to one me thinks?

      My magic is working at 50 to one right now and my jetting reflects it. I have never run a 2 S @ that less of oil before so I have no experience to share.
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