This was a first!!

[Venice Motor Bikes]

I was riding home friday night on the copper Schwinn.
Everthing was fine, the bike was running strong then all of a sudden the bike lost all power...
This is what I found to be the problem!!!
Luckily, I was only 5 blocks from home!

 

[bairdco]

seeing stuff like that always makes me think, "what if that happened to me and i was ten miles from home?"

if there's a home depot or an auto parts store, no probs, but what if it was the middle of the night?

maybe i could break off a sprinkler in a park or an apartment complex, rip out a piece of the pvc line, jam it into the carb and jam the other end into the broken intake.

that'd get me home...

oh, and that sucks, Norm. how heavy is that custom air cleaner you got?

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

how heavy is that custom air cleaner you got?

I was thinking that too!! Maybe I'll stick with my K&N filters!

 

[bairdco]

was that the flashlight mod you had going?

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

was that the flashlight mod you had going?

Actually, John (retmachinest) made it... It works pretty good & looks real cool, but maybe it's a bit too heavy? (maybe it was just a bad carb, IDK??)

 

[Creative Engineering]

Venice,

I would bet that the intake isn't round, or possibly undersize.

The carb is die cast. By design the outlet, (slit end), of the carb is only meant to compress a few thousandth's of an inch when tightening the clamp. Compress the slit portion around an undersize tube, (intake), and the cast material will be stressed and ready to let go. Add a little vibration and snap!

The carb should be a snug fit with the clamp loose. If the carb flops around on the intake, the bottom of the slits will be stressed when the clamp is tightened...which is what appears to have happened.

Jim

 

[civlized]

I might put some JB weld in my little emergency bag, now!

 

[The 26incher]

I have an extra carb if you need it...

 

[GearNut]

the broken intake.

The intake is fine, it's the carb that broke!

 

[2door]

Wow, Norm, pi**er... I'm in total agreement with Jim and the reason why I stress not overtightening the carb clamp to newbies. I like to rely more on a good silicone seal than the clamp, slots and intake. At least you have the means to simply replace the carburetor so you'll be back on the road quickly and know what to look for and how to fix it. I might add that I always sand the intake where the carb goes to give the silicone a good bite. I had a steel chromed intake that even after the silicone set the carb was not tight and I had an air leak. After I sanded it...no problem. Use course sand cloth, maybe 180 grit.
Tom

 

[bairdco]

I might put some JB weld in my little emergency bag, now!

then what are you gonna do for 4-6 hours, or maybe even 15 while it cures?

 

[2door]

then what are you gonna do for 4-6 hours, or maybe even 15 while it cures?

Walk and push... Then replace the carb when the JB fails.
Tom

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Wow, Norm, pi**er... I'm in total agreement with Jim and the reason why I stress not overtightening the carb clamp to newbies. I like to rely more on a good silicone seal than the clamp, slots and intake. At least you have the means to simply replace the carburetor so you'll be back on the road quickly and know what to look for and how to fix it. I might add that I always sand the intake where the carb goes to give the silicone a good bite. I had a steel chromed intake that even after the silicone set the carb was not tight and I had an air leak. After I sanded it...no problem. Use course sand cloth, maybe 180 grit.
Tom

The manifold is the same as all my other engines... & the carb slid on it nice n snug (just like all the others) when I installed it. I think it was probably a combination of several small problems that all added up... (heavy air filter, maybe a slight defect in the carb, & racing the s**t out of the bike!)

 

[GearNut]

ViBrAtIoN can do wierd things.......

 

[2door]

Quote...(& racing the s**t out of the bike!)

Yep, that'll do it every time.
Tom

 

[spit_fire]

i have a delloroto carb with a plastic inner sleve for a good seal should i still worry about this happening to mine or is this something more common on the cheap china ???

 

[GearNut]

Any spigot mounted carb has the possibility to do that. I think that you are good to go with a DelOrto carb though. The metal alloy is leaps and bounds better that the cheap chinese alloy.

 

[civlized]

then what are you gonna do for 4-6 hours, or maybe even 15 while it cures?

J-B Weld Company - J-B STIK Product Information


I really thought you guys would be more familiar with JB. It did suck for holding together a CVT on the output side, but I think it would hold a carb with no problem (at least long enough to get home) and the cure time is about 20 minutes, not 4-6 - 15 hours. It's an epoxy putty, not the 2 little tubes of liquid.

 

[2door]

J-B Weld Company - J-B STIK Product Information


I really thought you guys would be more familiar with JB. It did suck for holding together a CVT on the output side, but I think it would hold a carb with no problem (at least long enough to get home) and the cure time is about 20 minutes, not 4-6 - 15 hours. It's an epoxy putty, not the 2 little tubes of liquid.

Its still just dimestore glue. If you want to use an epoxy product check here> ITW Devcon | Two of the most recognized brands in all of industry; Devcon® and Permatex®. Expensive, but you get what you pay for.
Tom

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

J-B Weld Company - J-B STIK Product Information


I really thought you guys would be more familiar with JB. It did suck for holding together a CVT on the output side, but I think it would hold a carb with no problem (at least long enough to get home) and the cure time is about 20 minutes, not 4-6 - 15 hours. It's an epoxy putty, not the 2 little tubes of liquid.

Doood... these carbs only cost $10 & I have plenty of them laying around... no need for JB.