Starting to look like something

[wret]

Hey guys.

I'm been scrounging parts for a couple of months now and I'm starting to get something tangible. Here's my take on an Indian (sort of) board track racer.

 

[MotoMagz]

Looks great are those cuda forks??How at they?

 

[wret]

No. Monark II. Seems very high quality and robust. I haven't got a feel yet for how much weight it will absorb.

 

[curtisfox]

AWESOME! Looking realy good so far. When i was a kid i had a Monark twin motor bike and them forks were awesome...............Curt

 

[MotoMagz]

No. Monark II. Seems very high quality and robust. I haven't got a feel yet for how much weight it will absorb.

now I see it..could not tell on my phone.You wouldn't know I have a Monark hanging in the garage geez.

 

[Tinsmith]

Very nice start!

Dan

 

[Intrepid Wheelwoman]

Very tidy, you've made a good start there.

 

[Velodrome]

subscribed! Nice job with fab! Whered ya git the seat?

 

[Heretic]

Looks good. What are you thinking about for a motor?

 

[wret]

subscribed! Nice job with fab! Whered ya git the seat?

Thanks!

The seat I made of tooling leather from Tandy. I posted some intermediate pics in the leatherworking thread.

 

[wret]

Looks good. What are you thinking about for a motor?

I've got a Lifan 163fml (150cc) ready to bolt on.

 

[wret]

I got the wheels put together: 11 gauge spokes on moped hubs, and mocked up the handlebars.

 

[Intrepid Wheelwoman]

Beautiful, - a sight to sooth sore eyes.

 

[wret]

For any of you looking to match the look of the original board track handlebars on a budget, stainless steel shaft collars welded together work well. They are $8.63 at McMaster-Carr.

 

[albert H]

so cool! I love the seat

 

[wret]

I've got the coaxial jackshaft or "quill shaft" almost worked out though it looks like kick starting might be a problem.

 

[silverbear]

Coming along nicely...
SB

 

[Mr.B.]

This build is shaping up nicely, I especially like the quill shaft!

I assume you’re going with a right side final drive( ?)

I’ve been thinking about doing this myself, and it looks like you may be using some plumbing fittings for your bottom bracket...?

Would you mind explaining the details of your solution? Like the parts you’re using & bearing sizes, etc...?

Thanks in advance!

-Kirk

 

[wret]

The bottom bracket shell is actually a 2-1/2 inch rigid conduit coupler, a lucky find at home depot. It has non-tapered threads all the way through, and an inside diameter of 69mm and change. The outer nuts were a little harder to find but I found them here: http://www.garvinindustries.com/ele...les/chn-250i?gclid=CLO5wvHs7LwCFTQOOgodvUsAVQ

The outer shaft is 40mm stainless steel tube from McMaster-Carr. I found that 40mm is common size for go kart drive shafts so bearings and sprockets are easy to find. The shaft will sit inside a pair of sealed bearings that are 68 OD x 40 ID x 15.

The 16mm quill shaft will ride inside on 35 OD x 16 ID X 11 bearings and will have cottered cranks on the ends.

There will be some spacers and shaft collars keeping everything in line and tight. Most of the parts are inexpensive and readily available on ebay/McMaster-Carr. I'll see if I can take a picture of all the parts before I fit them together.

 

[Mr.B.]

Thanks!!!

-Kirk