Sportsman project coming up...questions

Hi Brett,
I still have yet to make a stretch and loop with china mounts but have already worked out the details. As for shipping under the size limits I know it just will not fit. It would have to go Fed Ex or UPS. The tool box is close but does clear. A 41 chain helps as the 415 is fatter. Box is sized to leave room for straps and fit the CDI with just a hair left over for chain clearence. Just run a 41 chain.
 
Yep thanks for that, I think I'll grab a 41 chain.
The chain breaker that I bought from a Singapore ebay seller for $11, didnt really do the job, should I be surprised???!!! hah! Was worth a shot. Im gonna get the shop to do it in the morning.
I will need to look for a good one. What is a good brand?
 
hey Brett, many shops that sell chain and sprockets should have a cheap chain breaker for 41/415 chain. Out here we seem em for $9-$15 at HF.
Maybe a tractor supply?

In a pinch, you can use a hammer and punch, but it's very difficult to put chain back together that way. With a masterlink, it works tho.
 
I agree with John, Diamond chain is good stuff. I hear they make an imported version that's cheaper. I use the made in the USA version. For breaking chains I just grind off the head of the pins flush with the link then use a chisel and separate the link. Cheap chain breakers suck.
 
I agree with John, Diamond chain is good stuff. I hear they make an imported version that's cheaper. I use the made in the USA version. For breaking chains I just grind off the head of the pins flush with the link then use a chisel and separate the link. Cheap chain breakers suck.

That's some pretty accurate grinding there. What tool are you using?
Yes I found out that cheap chain breakers do suck. I doubt if the thing could extract a pin out of even the light gauge chains...
 
If anyone can source any #41 O-ring chain let me know. I can't find any. I can find it in #40, but I dOnt use that size.
 
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cant get the 2 chains 'sync'd' with each other, the worksman pedal side is sorted, but on the engine side it's too long, even with idler adjusted right up, & if I take out another link it'll be too short.
It looks like I might have to use the cheap idler arm from the engine kit in the meantime.
And the bicycle shop dont have half links for this 415 type of chain.
 
cant get the 2 chains 'sync'd' with each other, the worksman pedal side is sorted, but on the engine side it's too long, even with idler adjusted right up, & if I take out another link it'll be too short.
It looks like I might have to use the cheap idler arm from the engine kit in the meantime.
And the bicycle shop dont have half links for this 415 type of chain.

Brett,
Just starting with 10 feet of #41, two masters and two half links I can sort those chains out every time. I run a 28t or 36t tooth front and 18 rear on the pedal side. Motor side uses the sprocket that comes with the engine and a 40t in the rear. Sometimes I run a half link and sometimes I don't. Don't lose too much sleep over a slightly loose pedal side chain and don't run the motor side too tight. Also, pay careful attention to idler axle bolt clearence and idler chain alignment. Use the 1/2" washers to shim the idler left or right till that chain is perfect. You can also adjust the rear motor sprocket laeft or right. Using a straight edge across the rear sprocket towards the front helps to align everything. Hardest part of the build is the chains.
 
I will have to go looking for a half link for the chain. In the meantime Ive put on the engine kit idler arm. If I cant find a half link for this kind of chain (bicycle shop just call this chain 'motor chain' & dont have half links anywhere near the right size) then may need to cut idler bracket & move it a little, or, use a different size sprocket somewhere.
Been messing with it for hours & it's definitely a half link difference between each side, with the sprockets I have on there.
With the SF idler sprocket, what is diameter difference between the 22T I have, & the 18T ?
 
actually one other option, if i cant source a half link for the 415 chain, will be to get the local engineer to weld in engine mounts, to set up the motor so it works. That would also make for a tidier engine mount setup.
 
the new other issue I have, is that when I move the hub sprocket over far enough to make the chain clear the oil tank, the chain then rubs on the part of the frame down near the axle.

EDIT: Moved the idler arm a bit & it clears the frame now
 
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Brett,
Hardest part of the build is the chains.

Yup.
I think it looks like I will have to order a half link in.
I will have to start from scratch as my half link will have to be on the pedal sprocket side, & i cant shorten that anymore than it is currently. A half link on the motor sprocket side might scratch the oil tank.
Will get some more chain & a half link & start again in a week or so once I have the chain.
 
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Well it's had it's maiden voyage by pedal power anyway. Im really happy with the Velo Orange Belleville bars. They sent me the 22.2mm version so the throttle & clutch will fit.
I ran outta time to install the rest of the motor setup tonight; I think I might set that up with the cheap idler arm to get the motor started, next week, while Im waiting for a half link.
 

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hey another newbie question:
am i right in thinking that, to operate under pedal power only, you have to keep your clutch lever pulled in, is that correct?
then to start the motor you let the lever out while moving?
(have mercy on the 2 stroke newbie)
 
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Yeah thats right brett, clutch in to pedal and release to bumpstart.

Just wondering why you have the china kit supplied motor drivechain tensioner, isnt that what that bracket is for on Pats frames? You shouldnt need that ugly looking tensioner.
 
it's just there temporarily, as there is not as much adjustment with Pat's setup, this one gives me a lot of adjustment.
hey the rugby player's name is Quade Cooper (I dunno where I got Quenton from). I just saw him get injured on tv, in the game against Wales
 
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