Something new and kinda sorta 100 years old looking

discontinuuity said:
It looks like automotive type pistons and rings, even with a built-in oil pump! The valves are some kind of reed valves.
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Air Conditioning Restoration Photo 1

Here's where I found the story:
HOME-BRED STEAM POWER

Keep up the good work! I'm interested to see what this looks like finished.
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Yeah, I see a sump! I don't see any reed valves, just a piston valve in the inlet/outlet bore. Sure does look like it's just asking to be a steam engine. Guess I'll keep my eyes open for one of those ... you, know, for something in the future ...
 
fishguts said:
I was wondering too if the holes are adequate, but there isn't much of an opening in a stock carb either. I guess I could do the math, but you know, if it isn't enough I bet it just pops that press-in tube cap right off. If it doesn't, then I'd say we're all set. How's that for scientific?
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So I just put a phillips head screwdriver between the spokes of the flywheel and spun that little sucker over at about 200 RPM. Nothing exciting happened with the air cleaner.
 
fishguts said:
Yeah, I see a sump! I don't see any reed valves, just a piston valve in the inlet/outlet bore. Sure does look like it's just asking to be a steam engine. Guess I'll keep my eyes open for one of those ... you, know, for something in the future ...
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The reed valves are labeled "plate" in that drawing. Check out the link for more photos of its guts.

If it had space for a camshaft I'd think of making one of these compressors into a four-stroke motor. I wonder if it would work as a two-stroke? You'd have to cut ports into the cylinders and add a cooling jacket, but it might work. Maybe I'll make a separate thread for this.
 
discontinuuity said:
The reed valves are labeled "plate" in that drawing. Check out the link for more photos of its guts.

If it had space for a camshaft I'd think of making one of these compressors into a four-stroke motor. I wonder if it would work as a two-stroke? You'd have to cut ports into the cylinders and add a cooling jacket, but it might work. Maybe I'll make a separate thread for this.
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If you are not into wild horsepower or speed, make an atmospheric intake and an exhaust port thats pretty simple.
 
if it isn't enough I bet it just pops that press-in tube cap right off. If it doesn't, then I'd say we're all set. How's that for scientific
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That's called the KISS method,,,Keep It Simple,,,you know the rest
 
fishguts said:
This is my little steampunk airfilter. It's a 1" X 3/4" reducer with a chrome tubing cap in the end. It fit nice and snug on the stock intake but I secured it with some epoxy for good measure. the element is synthetic steel wool - "won't shred or rust". Painted the intake with copper paint.

Thanks for the inspiration Silverbear!

steambike40.jpg



steambike41.jpg
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You're welcome. Boy, that turned out nice!
SB
 
I'm curious how you de-chromed the parts you wanted to paint. I have an old Worksman wheel with enough rust chipped spots that I'd like to paint it, but have little confidence the paint will hold without some kind of special preparation. The other wheel I am building to go with it has a painted rim and I'd like them to match. So, what did you do?
SB
 
The actual de-chroming is done with acid, but you can get satisfactory results with Scotchbrite pads. Either by hand or on an angle air motor. Just need to rough it up enough for the primer to stick. The pads come in 3 or 4 different grits, 2 and 3 inch diameter. I use the roughest for best results. It's harder if the chrome is flaking. Just more work.
 
msrfan said:
The actual de-chroming is done with acid, but you can get satisfactory results with Scotchbrite pads. Either by hand or on an angle air motor. Just need to rough it up enough for the primer to stick. The pads come in 3 or 4 different grits, 2 and 3 inch diameter. I use the roughest for best results. It's harder if the chrome is flaking. Just more work.
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Yep, by de-chroming I meant essentially the Scotchbrite approach, except I use one of those fibrous grit pad/wheels you can chuck up in your drill and go at it. They work great. I actually took the chrome completely off in a number of places - right down to the copper plating underneath. I used 220 grit paper to reach the spots the grit wheel didn't get. Then I used high-build primer right over that. This, I'll sand with 320, do a little surfacing putty, sand, prime a little more and then paint.

After that, it's throw the various components I've built on this thing and fire it up.


Theoretically.
 
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msrfan said:
The actual de-chroming is done with acid, but you can get satisfactory results with Scotchbrite pads. Either by hand or on an angle air motor. Just need to rough it up enough for the primer to stick. The pads come in 3 or 4 different grits, 2 and 3 inch diameter. I use the roughest for best results. It's harder if the chrome is flaking. Just more work.
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msrfan,
I don't have air tools, but do have an electric angle grinder, so will look for the rough scotchpad disc for it. Thanks!
SB
 
silverbear said:
msrfan,
I don't have air tools, but do have an electric angle grinder, so will look for the rough scotchpad disc for it. Thanks!
SB
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It's actually for a 3/8" drill. You'll probably find it in the same area as grinding discs for your angle grinder. They aren't cheap ($6-$8) and do require careful use so you don't ruin them right away. Since they're fibrous, you don't want to use them turning into a sharp edge as it will tear them up. I reverse the drill if I have to in some spots so the pad turns away across the edge rather than into it. Does that make sense? I've used them for years for paint removal.

Here it is. It looks solid in the picture but it isn't.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Brite-9413NA-Contour-Surface/dp/B00004Z4DH
 
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I've used pads like that to strip old 10 speeds to the bare metal. They get used up (smaller) after a while, but work pretty quickly. I don't know about how they do on chrome, never tried it. I had those type pads and the ones that let you use the wide end of the wheel as well.

I can't wait to hear how the bike runs!
 
Laid down the topcoat. I had a partial can of Oil Rubbed Bronze satin paint and shot some of that, liked what I saw and went out and got a couple more cans. The crank assembly is actually semi flat black but it's hard to tell in limited light. I really like this color. It should look good with the copper and bass components. Assembly should go pretty quick.

steambike43.jpg
 
Coming together a little bit. I'm not going to put the fenders on it, at least not for now because of time constraints. I kinda like it without them anyway.

I have to figure out how to permanently attach the tank and need to find four identical tan belts to strap the luggage down. Seat needs a clamp. Also need to make a headlight bracket. The lever belt clutch looks like it's going to work. Just need to tweak it a little to keep it from rubbing the tire and the tank. It's a snug fit but should all work out. The Micargi pedals aren't exactly vintage, but then again neither are a lot of the other parts and they don't look too bad. Maybe I'll paint the studded surface copper or something, or black so they sorta disappear. I might skip putting a cable on the front hub until after the show I'm taking this thing to. It doesn't have to be 100%, but I would like it to be boiler-ready. Tomorrow I'll make the brass straps for the boiler and get it mounted. I'll shorten up the stack a good bit. Maybe even with the top of the luggage, call it a bun warmer ...

steambike44.jpg


steambike45.jpg
 
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If this bike looks like I think it's going to look and if it runs like I think it's going to run y;our likely going to have Jay Leno knocking on your door.
 
Ted said:
If this bike looks like I think it's going to look and if it runs like I think it's going to run y;our likely going to have Jay Leno knocking on your door.
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Thanks for the comment but Leno lives in a different universe and I don't know if he can get here from there.


But then again, maybe he should see what I have sitting in my shop .....


He could just send $$ and save himself the trip. laff
 
i've got a cool idea for a brake cable.

first, start with a better-than-walmart brake cable housing, then remove the plastic covering with a sharp knife to expose the inner coiled metal insides.

you might have to wrap some tape around the ends so it fits snugly into the adjusters, or use heat shrink, or even leave the last 1/2" of cover on it.

the steel-coiled cable would look pretty vintage-y.
 
It does sound interesting ,If there is an inner lineing for the cable to slide through ,it should be strong enough
 
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