So Close

C

Comrade Alfonzo

New Member
I have finally got my bike working after 10 months. The kill switch does not work, disturbing, and the chain tensioner won't tighten any more but still took a dip in my spokes. Would Loctite from the frame to the tensioner hold it. Also, which way do I adjust the idle to slow it down, I clutched in to turn around and pedaled up to speed then let out the clutch, and it was still revving high enough to rip the chain off, this is probably because I have too much chain on there, but it is still idling very high. Also when I get a switch to replace this crappy kill switch how should it be wired. Thanks for everybody's help. Especially Flybytaco for the chain. dance1
 
You can splice into the black wire(ground) to put a toggle switch on,im just guessing.
Idle screw counter clockwise(left) to lower idle.
Some people drill a tiny hole threw the tensioner into the bike frame and add a small screw or you can make a bracket with clamps,its up to you. I added a bracket to hold my tensioner in place cause my frame is too small to drill a hole in,without weakening it.
 
Thanks for the electronic instructions, I'll be pullin links tomorrow, Also Do you guys think Loctite is strong enough for the chain tensioner. And finally the motor puts out 12VDC, I need to know so I can get a capable toggle or rocker switch, possibly with a red cover.
 
Many times, the killswitch will be mounted on a painted handlebar and the engine won't turn off. Move the switch temporarily to bare metal and see if it works. If it works, then scrape the paint off under where the switch needs to be, then bolt it down. If that doesn't work, scrape the insulation off any part of the wire, touch it to ground with engine running. If engine dies, replace switch. If engine does NOT die, trace it back to the coil and repair connection.

You can also run the killswitch wire to the sparkplug wire to get it to die.

Safest way to mount the tensioner is to have someone weld a simple bracket to the frame. Then add a bolt and skateboard wheel as a tensioner.
 
All right, re wired the killswitch maybe itll work. I got the chain tightened but I still think the tensioner is too loose even though it won't get any tighter. Would Loctite and ductape keep it from slipping, I still have to use a mallet to move it with just the bolts
 
yes get it where you need it and drill a hole through it and the chainstay and send a self tapper into the 2 and presto
 
Thanks for the help, I think that tightening the chain will probably solve it, but I'm adding duct tape as a precaution. Also how long is it supposed to take for loctite to dry/set
 
where do you want to add the locktite? it only hardens in an air tight and its activated when compressed in a nut or in a tapped hole.. funny u mention loctite it always reminds me of an old friend from a past job he was talking and his fake tooth popped out a front one too he tried to put it back in with red locktite no joke i never laughed so hard when his tooth popped out onto the floor and then when he locktited it soooooo funny
 
Loc-Tite is for threaded fastners and such. It is not a glue to hold objects together.
You will only be disappointed if you try to use it as such.
 
dag_29307 said:
He was a redneck wasn't he? No offense to anyone.
Click to expand...

I'm a central Texas country boy that will red neck a thing or two from time to time, but I can say that even a red neck would no that loctite would not work for the tooth repair, A true red neck would have built it up real nice with some JB QUICK WELD and then filed it down into a real nice purdy new tooth which would get a real nice coat of white liquid paper before a date on Saturday night.
 
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