If I am seeing it correctly, you moved it to right where the rear fender meets up with the seat stay. That looks like a good alternative place to put the shifter. Can you still get full range of motion on it comfortably though?
Reworking the lights, rewiring, top tube tank, etc
- Thread starter Harold_B
- Start date
Seems to be better than the long shifter I had on there. The total travel is about 70 degrees and the photos show it in the forward position. It's close to parallel to the seatpost in the furthest back position. No need for a gate either as this doesn't flop around like the long one did. It's in about the same position as taking out my wallet so it won't be too awkward.
I made a lot of progress on the cranks as long as sitting and thinking about it can be considered work. While I was thinking about that I made some brackets for the Whizzer rear stand I bought. It is supposed to fit most cruisers but perhaps that meant cruisers with 24" wheels because the stand didn't clear the tire at the bottom of the sweep. I also didn't want it mounted to the axle so that should I get a flat I can change it while on the stand.
Crank is bent. I just need to weld, file and paint now.
Spent the rest of the day getting it back in street trim including the saddle bags. Also going back to the rear street sweeper fender. I just like it better.
Spent the rest of the day getting it back in street trim including the saddle bags. Also going back to the rear street sweeper fender. I just like it better.
Put the generator in the engine chain loop. The Dana allowed me to have the right tension on the pedal and engine drive chains without tensioners on either chain so putting the generator in wasn't too bad. Plenty of room. Next to wire it up and test.
So I've been tinkering with the electrical stuff and not getting very far. The generator puts out about 3VAC when I run it up with a drill which means I'd need to rectify the output. For kicks I connected it to the mighty wonderful minigen I have on hand and the output was .3VDC. I'd really have to kick up the rpms on this thing to get the rated 12V. So I sat and stared at the bike for a while and thought about the little things I would like to change in order to drop a few pounds (it weighs about 104) and to make it operate the way I want. Between the build threads on this site and over at ratrod's there are so many things I want to do that I decided I wouldn't be satisfied until I tried my hand at a few of them. So, the Zen bike rebuild has started again.
Wow, stripped her bare! I guess when its only 5 degrees outside there is no better time to do it.
Ran out of propane halfway through the teardown. My hands still ache a bit. I think I'll get a refill before I spend more time in the garage! Took it down to the frame to seal the top tube for a tank (inspired by biknut's build thread).
I've let this thread go cold but that doesn't mean I haven't been somewhat busy. After running into a few hard stops with the electrical system and the changes in the MI laws allowing up to 100cc's, plus all of the great projects I've read about here this became a total "do over".
First up, the 98cc Doodlebug engine I purchased on eBay. A few changes inspired by the "Vintigizing an Engine" thread by Velo. I'm taking a shot at making my own jack shaft assembly with accommodation for driving a Kaboda alternator. Also going to try using a two stroker carb ala Norm.
"Inspired by" also means I want it a little different than so I went more for the vintage KLM or a Briggs look with the pull starter cup.
First up, the 98cc Doodlebug engine I purchased on eBay. A few changes inspired by the "Vintigizing an Engine" thread by Velo. I'm taking a shot at making my own jack shaft assembly with accommodation for driving a Kaboda alternator. Also going to try using a two stroker carb ala Norm.
"Inspired by" also means I want it a little different than so I went more for the vintage KLM or a Briggs look with the pull starter cup.
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Thanks SB. Also getting started on the frame and sealing the top tube for a tank. I used Dragon's Blood and what a mess! It looked like a murder scene in my garage. Pretty sure I have it sealed though.
Man! there is more intelligence on this forum then in most colleges, that is very clever! I like it, Right behind Ya Silverbear and that Velodrome guy he sure can get ya fired up too!NICE!
Thanks truckd. Agreed, lots of depth here on the forum. I hope to tap into it some more when it comes time to wire up the Yamaha voltage regulator and battery. I made my own steel engine mount plate and have the regulator mounted on the bottom. A majority of the time so far has gone into making adapter or mounting plates or brackets of one kind or another. Now the tedious part of prepping everything and getting it all repainted.
Oh, and by everything repainted I do mean everything! My 1903 will be less "03ish" and more of a 1923 considering the electrics and all. I looked at switching to a carbide lamp and a Klaxon horn but for now I'm too cheap so it's fun with the rattle cans!
Harold,
Much as I love the board tracker tribute builds it seems like in the past few years there are almost too many of them, or maybe the wow factor is just something I'm getting used to. Fact is there were a lot more motorcycles out there being ridden by your average Joe for transportation than bikes being raced on the boards. Those everyday bikes had fenders and lights and horns. Dependability was more important than how fast it could go.
There were so many different light motorcycles being built with so many great designs in those early years that I think we're missing something by having so much focus on Indians and to a lesser degree Harleys. Don't get me wrong, I love the Indians and have been doing my own kind of tribute build which I call an Indian Hiawatha tri-car, but it is beginning to feel like overkill to me. I've been gravitating to a later look reminiscent of the 1920's and 1930's of no particular make or model... just a nice clean early motorcycle.
Your re-build is very much what I'm talking about. It is different and refreshing, a bike meant for practical riding and is also a tribute to the early days. Going for a general kind of period look leaves you more freedom to do what you want and answer your own callings. And nobody can say it isn't accurate. None of our tribute bikes are unless we are using original engines, original dimensions, etc. They are all approximations, some more authentic than others, so why go crazy with it?
Excuse the ramble. Don't mean to be critical of anyone, just saying in a round about way that I like what you're doing.
SB
Much as I love the board tracker tribute builds it seems like in the past few years there are almost too many of them, or maybe the wow factor is just something I'm getting used to. Fact is there were a lot more motorcycles out there being ridden by your average Joe for transportation than bikes being raced on the boards. Those everyday bikes had fenders and lights and horns. Dependability was more important than how fast it could go.
There were so many different light motorcycles being built with so many great designs in those early years that I think we're missing something by having so much focus on Indians and to a lesser degree Harleys. Don't get me wrong, I love the Indians and have been doing my own kind of tribute build which I call an Indian Hiawatha tri-car, but it is beginning to feel like overkill to me. I've been gravitating to a later look reminiscent of the 1920's and 1930's of no particular make or model... just a nice clean early motorcycle.
Your re-build is very much what I'm talking about. It is different and refreshing, a bike meant for practical riding and is also a tribute to the early days. Going for a general kind of period look leaves you more freedom to do what you want and answer your own callings. And nobody can say it isn't accurate. None of our tribute bikes are unless we are using original engines, original dimensions, etc. They are all approximations, some more authentic than others, so why go crazy with it?
Excuse the ramble. Don't mean to be critical of anyone, just saying in a round about way that I like what you're doing.
SB
You nailed it SB. Thanks for summing it all up. I'm not sure what I expected but it wasn't a clear understanding of what I'm trying to do. I guess half expected some grief for taking buzz cans to a "collector" bike or perhaps indifference considering how long I've been tinkering and there been several 1903 threads. At this point I'm a couple weeks from riding so perhaps I can keep the thread moving along.
I'm about 1/3 through sanding the frame. There are a few fairly deep scratches in the black paint between the brackets from the previous build(s) and stone chips from my work commute so I'm taking down to the bare aluminum. I'll have Popeye's forearms bythe time I'm done.
My plan is to keep the graphics simple. Pretty much just a lot of red, a little black, and whatever shiny metal looks appropriate. I did splurge on my ego and had a head tube badge made.
My plan is to keep the graphics simple. Pretty much just a lot of red, a little black, and whatever shiny metal looks appropriate. I did splurge on my ego and had a head tube badge made.
About a week of sanding. What I didn't inhale or wear into the house has been swept up. It did not come off easily.
Shot two coats of primer, sanded and then the first top coat. It will get two more coats and a sanding then a finish coat.
Shot two coats of primer, sanded and then the first top coat. It will get two more coats and a sanding then a finish coat.
Harold,
That's going to look good and nice having the engine shroud of the same color to help tie it all together visually and give it a "factory" look. What kind of paint are you using?
SB
That's going to look good and nice having the engine shroud of the same color to help tie it all together visually and give it a "factory" look. What kind of paint are you using?
SB
I disassembled the fork so I could paint the bits and pieces too for that factory look. I plan to make a shield for the clutch and paint it to match and I'll be painting the Dana 3-speed red too. Hopefully I have enough black and metal parts to balance it out.
After trying a bunch of different brands and having some difficulty matching color for the fenders and engine, then having compatibility issues (cracking), I've settled on Rustoleum automotive Red for the frame and fenders and Rustoleum Hightemp Red for the engine. I've been using Rustoleum automotive primer or self etching primer. It seems pretty robust after about a week.
After trying a bunch of different brands and having some difficulty matching color for the fenders and engine, then having compatibility issues (cracking), I've settled on Rustoleum automotive Red for the frame and fenders and Rustoleum Hightemp Red for the engine. I've been using Rustoleum automotive primer or self etching primer. It seems pretty robust after about a week.