Predyno 99cc......the ultimate daily cruiser!

carcrafter22 said:
Did you buy that mount or make it?
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I actually did buy it, it cost me $20 but worth every penny. If people read the first post, they would know that I bought or acquired this mount and did not fabricate it. It's an incredible mount and wish that I made it.....I had the keen eye to know this mount was do-able.......almost perfect.
 
I bought some parts for this build today. Went to the Goodwill store nearby and found a 20" Hoffman BMX bike complete. Checked the components to see if it was worth buying and figured that it was worth the $45 they were asking for it.

I've already stripped it down to the bare frame and here is what I'm using off of it. The bottom bracket with splined spindle, hollow chromoly cranks that will be modified for the width, Kalloy alloy bmx pedals, Cane Creek 1-1/8" threadless headset, nice short alloy stem for threadless fork, alloy seatpost clamp, Tektro two-finger brake levers and a 36t pedalside front sprocket.

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The leftover parts I won't be using for this build include a flip-flop large axle rear hub (48 spoke) with small driver, front wheel w/alloy rim and oversized axle, bmx h-bars with locking grips, nice beefy chromo bmx frameset, seat and seat post, etc,etc.

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It was a nice bike till I got ahold of it laff
 
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scotto don't cut down the saucer! that is out of this world! cut a slot for the chain and use it as a slider! the Bmx is a score. HI-HO-SILVER>>>AWAY!!! dennis
 
motorhedfred said:
"flip-flop large axle rear hub (48 spoke) with small driver".....what does all that mean ?
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All that means is the rear hub has 48 holes and a very large 1/2" axle. The flip-flop meaning the hub is threaded on the right-hand side and on the left-hand side as well so you can run the pedal drive chain on the right side (normal for most bikes) or the left side for whatever reason. The small driver refers to the small rear drive sprocket, which on this bike is a 13t freewheel. This isn't really considered a "driver" as I thought......small drivers are normally 8-12t cogs that are an integral part of a high-end bmx hub. This is a 13t freewheel as I have stated and there is some difference between the two.

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here are the specs on the Hoffman bmx frame:

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VIKTR said:
What kind of forks are you planning on pairing with this beauty?
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It will be one of these two forks......not sure which one yet

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I have only started the engine once before, I pulled the valve cover off today to check the valve lash from the factory and was pleasantly surprised. The intake was .0025" and the exhaust was .004".

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Another surprise was the sparkplug wasn't the long reach type and the piston has a flat top. Very Honda like in many ways........tight tolerances for a chinese engine.
 
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dmb said:
scotto don't cut down the saucer! that is out of this world! cut a slot for the chain and use it as a slider! the Bmx is a score. HI-HO-SILVER>>>AWAY!!! dennis
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That's not a bad idea Dennis......unfortunately I already hacked off the left side for engine drivetrain clearance and notched the right side for the pedal drive chain clearance. It's still out of this world, as we know it laff

Cheers bro!

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if ya turn that 99cc sticker upside-down, it will only be 66cc.....oh my rotfl

dnut
 
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scotto- said:
All that means is the rear hub has 48 holes and a very large 1/2" axle. The flip-flop meaning the hub is threaded on the right-hand side and on the left-hand side as well so you can run the pedal drive chain on the right side (normal for most bikes) or the left side for whatever reason. The small driver refers to the small rear drive sprocket, which on this bike is a 13t freewheel. This isn't really considered a "driver" as I thought......small drivers are normally 8-12t cogs that are an integral part of a high-end bmx hub. This is a 13t freewheel as I have stated and there is some difference between the two.
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The reasoning behind the double threaded hub is one can run two different tooth count sprockets on one wheel. This is a time saver to allow a fast gear change at the track without the need to mess with unthreading a sprocket and threading a new one on. You just remove the wheel, flip it around and reinstall in a minute in two. All in the quest for fine tuning the bike to the track conditions.

Note that this style of hub cannot be used for motoring purposes. IE a left side drive engine sprocket, as the hub is threaded the same direction on both sides.
If you were to drive the left sprocket the driver would unthread from the hub.
 
GearNut said:
The reasoning behind the double threaded hub is one can run two different tooth count sprockets on one wheel. This is a time saver to allow a fast gear change at the track without the need to mess with unthreading a sprocket and threading a new one on. You just remove the wheel, flip it around and reinstall in a minute in two. All in the quest for fine tuning the bike to the track conditions.

Note that this style of hub cannot be used for motoring purposes. IE a left side drive engine sprocket, as the hub is threaded the same direction on both sides.
If you were to drive the left sprocket the driver would unthread from the hub.
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Thus.......flip-flop. Great explanation Dan, thanks man! Lets ride!
 
Have been getting quite alot done on this build lately.....trimming the mounting plate, fabbing the front mounts, installing the headset, working on the jackshaft, removed the governor and the front wheel is now complete and have decided to run the SR/Suntour suspension fork.

Here's today's pics of the completed front wheel........ Atomlab T-10 Pimplite rim and SA 90mm hub laced with 12G stainless spokes sporting the Intense DH tube and the everso gripping Hookworm tread

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dnut
 
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biknut said:
That wheel looks good. Double wall I assume? How wide is it?
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magrider said:
wheel looks great. 24 or 26?
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It's a little more than double wall and is 28mm narrow (an inch and a bit) and an inch tall. It's made from T-10 aluminum alloy and is 26" in diameter. It is a very strong rim and makes for a durable wheel build with the 12g spokes and a hefty hub.

The SA drum brake isn't the most powerful stopper, but it looks great and will provide ample braking for this build.
 
killercanuck said:
Looking sweet overall, gonna be one badass ride, for sure. So just not into triple-trees? Or are the SR's more comfy?
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I love triple trees but they limit your in-frame tank build unless you like dents in your custom tank. And really good triple tree forks cost an arm and a leg unless ya get a great deal on them.

The RST Mozo's were the other choice that I already have, but because of a recall on them for certain applications I chose to leave them on the Mtn. bike pictured.

The 99cc will get the Slants used fork and the refurbished Slant will get a brand new fork. It's just the way I do things sometimes......don't ask why.

And don't worry, however I build this ultimate cruiser, it will be the ultimate cruiser built for me and will perform like a champ.......yes it will!
 
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And the rear wheel, to go with the front wheel

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Then I had to hang up the 99cc build to start tearing down the 212cc build this weekend.....

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stay tuned......I'll be back on it quicker than you think
 
biknut said:
Check this out. I kept thinking these chinese tires on my bike looked familiar, but I couldn't remember which tires they reminded me of. One of my friends has Hookworms on his bike. What do you think?
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Yes they are very similar in tread pattern, but nothing I've found sticks to asphalt better than the HOOKWORM. I think many others would agree.
 
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