please help!! I wanna buy this bike&engine tommrrow !!

The youtube idea would probably be the simplest. Then we can all have a look at what's going on and come up with some solutions. Remember to hold the camera steady for at least ten seconds and shoot from a couple of angles so we can see clearly. Use a tripod if you have one or even hold the camera against a chair to steady the picture. And be aware of the lighting. You might be the next Otto Preminger!
 
Chaz said:
also, in picture 4 it looks like maybe you have the washers on the rag joint under the heads of the bolts when they should be under the nuts on the other side. Maybe just a trick of the light in the photo. If that is the case it will give you more clearance for the brake arm. Just switch them out one at a time so you'll keep your rag joint in the same place.
Click to expand...

This seems likely.

You can also remove, and bend the bake arm to make a better fit.
 
I agree about posting a short video since it makes it a lot easier to see what's going on, you will most likely get some help from others on YouTube as well as us in the forum.
I'm also seeing the washers under the bolt heads and they can cause clearance issues with a coaster brake, the fix is easy like mentioned above, just take one bolt out at a time and swap the washers over to the nut side. A drop of blue locktite on the bolt threads will stop them from backing out after the pre adjustments are made, and if it's already adjusted so there's no side to side wobble, or as little wobble as possible, removing one bolt at a time will help keep it from losing its adjustment.

I'm also curious to what all is in that "everything but the engine and tank" kit since I got one on order as well...
 
It does sound like ya got the bearings a little too tight, and yeah, put those washers on the other side of the sprocket. You have to hold the inner nut on the axle to tighten the outer lock nut, otherwise you'll just tighten the nuts right into the bearing. Sometimes ya gotta hold the other side to keep the axle from spinning and tightening up on the nuts on the other side. Just barely a little loose is better than too tight. NOTICE I said a little, VERY VERY little loose.
fatdaddy. usflg
 
If I did tighten the nuts into the bearings how bad is that?? I think this bike has a 30day return an a 60 day exchange. You think o should take off sprocket an try again if I damaged bearings? Or is it an easy fix? I hope my kit gets here soon its been a week. So hopefully Mon I receive it. Though I live in fl an its coming from Cali. Does anyone know the usual time frame of priority USPS mail from one side of country to other?? You think 10 days is about right. He sent Zane sent Me an email confirming it had been sent.
 
So of course my mailman came late today, an of course my package came an was put in office because it was to large, an it was closed Cuz he came to late. So now I'm going to be going crazy knowing my parts are 100yards away and I can't get them. Ahhhh I'm going nuts. But tomorrow I'll give you a full review of parts an pictures. See you early tomorrow guys!
 
First just loosen up the bearing nuts and give it a spin. If ya fubared the bearings it will be obvious. If ya F'd it up you'll feel little chinks as it turns. Or a tight loose, tight loose situation. Ya want it smooth and clean. But worse case the bearings are cheap enough. As long as ya didn't mess up the inner wheel race. the inner race can take a lot more abuse than the bearings themselves, so it's prolly OK.
fatdaddy.usflg
 
I got the chinks... So replace bearings? You think I can get them from a bike shop or do you think they'll replace them for me for$20? Dang man I was excited to get this gal on the road! But I want it to be right an most important safe.
 
Any bike shop should have them on the shelf.
Be sure to inspect the race for damage, but like fatdaddy said, that's unlikely.

Grease em up good. Everybody has their own ideas on grease, but a marine bearing grease is what I usually use. That's good stuff.

Also, this may be of some use to you;

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html

Good luck! It's very satisfying to do all of the work you can, yourself.

Trey
 
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First pic is chain guard speed carb and muff
Second pic is both handles clutch and throttle cables with both springs petcock and filter inline.
Thi d pic is helper, chain, kill switch in Mikey's hand, the chain tensioner 4bolt, and a bag of little parts I'm not daring to go threw with him awake as they will be gone. Though I did see fuel line, about 5inch so kinda wucks and the clutch arm screw which is an ultra plus Cuz I thought I was gonna have to buy it separate. I will update in an hour after monster relxs after seeing all the new toss an I can make a therough inventory.
 

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Dude came with spark plug tool an all this!
Came with universal mount which I needed!
The hardware 4.8 so for the people who want to mod an keep your bike fast maybe an upgrade is still in order.
Can anyone give me info on this carb is it good? It says speed on it then has Chinese for choke lol.
Also the inline filter for the fuel has the paper cone an then a black mesh for extra protection. All I can say is this guys. I was Leary to order from Cali bikes because price seemed to good to be true an their wasn't a pic of item jus said look at engine kit an you receive everything except engine an tank. An that is exactly what I got plus things I didn't think I was going to get like clutch arm but and sparkplug tool. Guys for $40 bucks you cannot beat this complete kit without engine an tank. An his kits are 139!!!!!! This should be looked at I only saw 3 reviews but this is the guy to go to. He doesn't sell individual parts but for 40 its OK to get some extras for the part you need. Going to get his expansion chamber in a month or two after engine is at 100% to see the difference an if it is tuned well for our China girls!!
 

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So picture one the bolts aren't long enough to have the mount like this with the universal mount.

Pic 3&4 are just universal mount. I feel like its going to turn an rotate off.

Pic5 is back sitting on chain guard which I'm guessing will vibrate off in 2 or 3 rides into spokes or chain which is no bueno. Soo what is a frustrated boy to do!!!!!
 

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And is this going to male it easy to take end cap off and take out the bend in the baffel?
 

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Also how does the air get in this carb?? It looks super restrictive.
 

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Do not run the engine with the muffler end cap removed. What little you might gain in performance will be offset by the annoyance factor of a loud exhaust. You won't be doing your engine or the hobby any favors. Most of the performance gain will be in your head. Loud = fast. Myth!

2 stroke engines require a certain amount of back pressure. Your engine will perform better, and longer by keeping it muffled and baffled. If you want real performance improvements look at an expansion chamber style of exhaust. Gutted mufflers and open pipes aren't the answer.

Tom
 
Ok, on a more serious note... I just got that same kit in the mail yesterday and after seeing what all it includes it's definitely the best deal going compared to what I've seen others selling... it got me enough parts to build one more bike and still have spare parts... I'm also impressed that it comes with a speed carb without that stupid extra fuel shutoff valve installed.
I'll probably buy a few more of these kits before they run out or raise their prices, definitely a good deal...
 
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