please help!! I wanna buy this bike&engine tommrrow !!
- Thread starter mikeab13
- Start date
Looks like the piston was hitting the spark plug... that's from having the wrong plug installed at some time... that happens when someone buys a plug that has too much reach and it protrudes too far into the combustion chamber.
I think maybe this bike sat outside theirs green mold in the carb near the float? Or maybe had jus went bad.
Last pic is of head, gonna practice dremel skills
Last pic is of head, gonna practice dremel skills
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Well guys I'm about a week away from first ride. I bought
http://www.californiamotorbikes.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5225485
Which like it says is this without gas tank or engine http://www.californiamotorbikes.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4031592
So with this plus the sweet ass engine 2doors( Tom) sent me I'm in business all I have to do now is clean the inside of the gas tank which I've searched an read two different ways to do it on this site. Put nuts in their or bb' s shake the bajesus out of it. Rinse it out. Then rinse it with oil. And or take sand and all distilled water and do the same, bajesus shaking an then rinse with gas/ oil mix. I'm very excited guys its finally happening!! And I can't wait to show you all the new ride.
http://www.californiamotorbikes.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5225485
Which like it says is this without gas tank or engine http://www.californiamotorbikes.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4031592
So with this plus the sweet ass engine 2doors( Tom) sent me I'm in business all I have to do now is clean the inside of the gas tank which I've searched an read two different ways to do it on this site. Put nuts in their or bb' s shake the bajesus out of it. Rinse it out. Then rinse it with oil. And or take sand and all distilled water and do the same, bajesus shaking an then rinse with gas/ oil mix. I'm very excited guys its finally happening!! And I can't wait to show you all the new ride.
Thanks dtv thanks Dave!! Def cleaning and saving this carb. Then once I get the basics down I will start jetting carb. An with two carbs I can try two dif sizes which will help me find my perfect flow easier , but this is way down the line. Dave, Tom, fatdaddy, an dtv, what number sparkplug should I get?? Dtv I know you live in fl so what do you use? I live in fort myers an a cool day after 10am is 97degrees. But everyday at 3 it rains an cools down to about 85. So I'm thinking 6 or 7 as I will be riding mostly in early afternoon. Do you think NGK iridium is the way to go? I've ready a lot of good things, mostly it helps the engine run a lot smoother?
I will let you all know in a couple of days! I I emailed him an he said just like the banner says everything except engine an tank, so cdi, carb, hardware, everything. Which is what I nees
Mike,
Go with the -6 plug. It is a good all-round number for most applications.
Irridium? Save your money for something that will be worth it. There is no advantage to those high priced spark plugs for a little Chinese 2 stroke bicycle engine. They are designed to give high milage in engines much more sophisticated that ours. There will be no performance gains but will make the folks at NGK very happy that you bought one.
Much more important that the plug itself is the electrical connection inside the plug boot. Toss that kit boot in the trash and replace it with an automotive quality boot that requires the top cap be installed on the plug.
I'm personally not a fan of using resistance plug wire but rely on metallic core, preferably copper core wire. Resistance wire is called that because there is an electrical resistance built into it. That is to reduce interference with radios and RF sensitive electronics in cars today. Your little ignition system needs all the help it can get to produce a strong spark. It doesn't need resistance.
Tom
Go with the -6 plug. It is a good all-round number for most applications.
Irridium? Save your money for something that will be worth it. There is no advantage to those high priced spark plugs for a little Chinese 2 stroke bicycle engine. They are designed to give high milage in engines much more sophisticated that ours. There will be no performance gains but will make the folks at NGK very happy that you bought one.
Much more important that the plug itself is the electrical connection inside the plug boot. Toss that kit boot in the trash and replace it with an automotive quality boot that requires the top cap be installed on the plug.
I'm personally not a fan of using resistance plug wire but rely on metallic core, preferably copper core wire. Resistance wire is called that because there is an electrical resistance built into it. That is to reduce interference with radios and RF sensitive electronics in cars today. Your little ignition system needs all the help it can get to produce a strong spark. It doesn't need resistance.
Tom
I'm using a 79cc Predator engine. My bike isn't done yet. I'm waiting on money for some parts I need yet, including a cafe seat from treatland because I'm trying my best to make this bike look like a classic motorcycle, which in reality it is not far off from in looks or power. Its really only missing a 3 speed gearbox, and of course the bikes I'm referring to did not have pedals, and my bike won't look exactly like any particular classic motorcycle, but the general style is what I'm after.
Nice dtv! I look forward to seeing it, the predator engine your referring to is that the one you can get at HF? An if so what will u do for a clutch will it be an open clutch like I've read about?
2door!! Good to hear from you! Hey so the boot can I pick it up at auto zone an if so should I get the NGK nonresistant type boot, or should I get a auto zone one which I'm guessing will be cheaper then the other. As long as its nonresistant wiring and the top cap screws in do I tell them that's the boot I want an not the boot that pops on. Is their a specific one you use or jus get the best price one with those specification s.
2door!! Good to hear from you! Hey so the boot can I pick it up at auto zone an if so should I get the NGK nonresistant type boot, or should I get a auto zone one which I'm guessing will be cheaper then the other. As long as its nonresistant wiring and the top cap screws in do I tell them that's the boot I want an not the boot that pops on. Is their a specific one you use or jus get the best price one with those specification s.
Mike, any boot that snaps onto a plug that has the top cap installed should suffice. I do not like the plastic kit boots that go on using the threads where the cap should be. They are notorious for poor electrical connections and fail often. They vibrate and come apart and you're left with an engine that won't run. They are by far the weakest link in the kit.
Any auto parts store should carry spark plug boots that come with a metal connector inside. Many of them have a sharp prong that is made to pierce the insulation and make contact with the conductor core when crimped on. I go so far as to solder that connection but I'm anal about the high voltage connections from the CDI to the plug and want the best connection I can provide.
Tom
Any auto parts store should carry spark plug boots that come with a metal connector inside. Many of them have a sharp prong that is made to pierce the insulation and make contact with the conductor core when crimped on. I go so far as to solder that connection but I'm anal about the high voltage connections from the CDI to the plug and want the best connection I can provide.
Tom
I'm not sure what you mean by "open clutch" but it is an automatic clutch I'll be using. I wish I could use a manual clutch or even a 3 speed gearbox, but unfortunately it would either be very hard to find one that would fit my crankshaft or even need to be custom made, and either option would cost much more than I can currently afford. At least the automatic clutch means one less thing on the handlebars.
OK I really need help guys!! I'm a little disappointed my kit didn't come today. I ordered on Thursday an I thought it would have made it hear by now. I ordered at 1am so I was hoping it got shipped out same day but maybe not, also its coming from Cali an I live in the bottom of fl so maybe it takes a little not longer or I'm just being super antcy to get on the road!!! Anyways.....
Problem and pictures: my back tire was very loose to the point it could have fallen off. I took a 10mile bike ride this afternoon to make sure the coaster break worked, truness, just tried to mess the bike up going as fast as I could pedal. So picture1 but was so loose their was a lot of side to side action.
Picture 2 is second but I tightened after the first. An now their is weird tension in the chain. When I spin the wheel the chain bumps up an down an its so bad the pedals shake up an down as well. What do you think this could be?? Are but one an but two to tight?? Did I break something? Before tightening but one the sprocket that comes with Tue bike wasloose , very loose. I'm very surprised riding to work an the 4 miles I road before I got to my friends house who pointed out the problems of pic one and two being loose. ( thanks Hawkeye, friend from work an now I see where he gets the name lol).
Pic 3&4: well this is how "true" I had my mb sprocket which I told you guys how dead on I got it. Look at the difference, pic three is actually rubbing on coaster break bar and pic 4 is about 1/6 inch away from it yikes!! At least I got it now. Do you think after tightening tue b sprocket again if still rubbing on the coaster break handle should I just dremel the coaster break arm just a smidge for clearance? Thanks guys. I'm really worried about problem 1 though because the chain an pedals shake an I can't see why.
Problem and pictures: my back tire was very loose to the point it could have fallen off. I took a 10mile bike ride this afternoon to make sure the coaster break worked, truness, just tried to mess the bike up going as fast as I could pedal. So picture1 but was so loose their was a lot of side to side action.
Picture 2 is second but I tightened after the first. An now their is weird tension in the chain. When I spin the wheel the chain bumps up an down an its so bad the pedals shake up an down as well. What do you think this could be?? Are but one an but two to tight?? Did I break something? Before tightening but one the sprocket that comes with Tue bike wasloose , very loose. I'm very surprised riding to work an the 4 miles I road before I got to my friends house who pointed out the problems of pic one and two being loose. ( thanks Hawkeye, friend from work an now I see where he gets the name lol).
Pic 3&4: well this is how "true" I had my mb sprocket which I told you guys how dead on I got it. Look at the difference, pic three is actually rubbing on coaster break bar and pic 4 is about 1/6 inch away from it yikes!! At least I got it now. Do you think after tightening tue b sprocket again if still rubbing on the coaster break handle should I just dremel the coaster break arm just a smidge for clearance? Thanks guys. I'm really worried about problem 1 though because the chain an pedals shake an I can't see why.
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thank you guys in advance! I edited this message an it said it wasn't long enough so I'm jus adding this.
It sounds like your rear hub bearings are not adjusted properly and when you re-tightened you are maybe binding them up a bit. Check out this site to give you info about coaster brakes, it should help some.
http://sheldonbrown.com/coaster-brakes.html
also, in picture 4 it looks like maybe you have the washers on the rag joint under the heads of the bolts when they should be under the nuts on the other side. Maybe just a trick of the light in the photo. If that is the case it will give you more clearance for the brake arm. Just switch them out one at a time so you'll keep your rag joint in the same place.
http://sheldonbrown.com/coaster-brakes.html
also, in picture 4 it looks like maybe you have the washers on the rag joint under the heads of the bolts when they should be under the nuts on the other side. Maybe just a trick of the light in the photo. If that is the case it will give you more clearance for the brake arm. Just switch them out one at a time so you'll keep your rag joint in the same place.
I do not know how to describe the problem how can I create a video all I have is mp4 how do I convert it to a valid file? Or should I make a utube video an post link?