OMG I have to tune a CNS!!! Help

Thanks. That will prolong my hands smelling like gas for a little longer. I remember these parts, but I don't recall the pin. Is it attached to the little plate on the float hinge or is it removable? I don't think I dropped any small parts. I guess there's only one way to find out...
 
skrew37 said:
Thanks. That will prolong my hands smelling like gas for a little longer. I remember these parts, but I don't recall the pin. Is it attached to the little plate on the float hinge or is it removable? I don't think I dropped any small parts. I guess there's only one way to find out...
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The float needle is a tiny part, easy to over look. Now that you're aware of it you probably won't have trouble with it again.
 
It's not attached, it slides up into a little hole. just make sure the little button is sticking out when you put it back or check it.
 
skrew37 said:
Now I'm getting nervous. I hope it didn't fall out.
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don't worry if it did fall out it's not going anywhere, it'll just float around in the bowl till you open it, just be careful and be ready for something to fall out when you open it. And then if that's the problem it's super easy to fix, just put it back.
 
I hope that's the case and it didn't fall out when I took the whole thing apart to clean it. If that's the case, then it could be gone. Dun Dun Dah (cue dramatic music)
 
ya that would be bad. if that's the case look for a little pyramid shaped piece with a button on it, hopefully you didn't take it apart in the grass lol.
 
No fortunately not in the grass which, coincidentally, I have to mow tonight. I'll look around when I get home and if it's not lying around in the vicinity of where I disassembled it, it must be in the bottom the the float bowl. (fingers crossed)
 
I found out my float was upside down. I flipped it and problem solved. I tightened everything down and took it for a spin. It was idling pretty high and I had to adjust the screws to get it back down to a "low rumble." I'm thinking before I did all of this, I had a slight air leak. It was having a problem turning over though for some reason. The spark plug took forever to start firing. Now if I can only get this new cdi and coil configuration up and running...
 
So would a clutch keep a bike from idleing if its not being pulled tight enough it feels like it needs to be tighter. My bike peddles real easy but my girls bike is tough and when you slow down with the clutch pulled it will just die when you get to slow.
 
If the clutch is dragging bad enough, then yes it can cause the engine to stall at low rpm's with the bike stopped or nearly stopped.
 
I love how something else always seems to go wrong as soon as you fix something... I've solved the problem with my carb. and I feel it's as properly tuned as it's going to be until my break-in is over. NOW, while re-tightening everything else on the bike, I cracked an ear my intake manifold flange. Air leak. Awesome. I have to order a new one from boostinductionsystems as I have the double-boost bottle kit. (I know, it's probably overkill and doesn't do much, but I have it, use it, and I think it looks cool). Also, I acquired a snapped tank bracket. These were custom made as my top tube is too thick for the stock straps. This should keep me busy and off the road.
 
Thx for all the testing. Have 48cc with cns66 mounted on beach crusier
I picked up yesterday.I live in Jensen Beach, Florida @ about 6 foot above sea level. This is my first bike and bought it from some who couldn't ever get in running. To get it running all i did was fix intake air leak by wrapping about 5 wraps of #10 solid copper wire. Got rid of the junk plastic and put the O-Ring back in place. Make sure when putting carb back on that it slides inside the O-Ring. Moved eclip on needle to last notch(lean). I did not drill out the main jet since i have a 48cc. Removed vent tube from the air cleaner. And that was it. I ran it for about 15 miles today hitting speeds around 30-35. Low end is little slow out of the hole but runs smooth. Probably the gearing.
Thx again
 
Here's the repair I did using aluminum repair "welding rod". I made a mold around the flange with a piece of soup can steel and "casted" a new ear. I then dremelled it to the finished shape and drilled the hole for the mounting stud. I also built up a fillet around where the tube and flange meet. Works great so far. I'm just waiting for the vibrations to shake it apart...

http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...-fail-intake-manifold-img_20110715_182111.jpg

http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...-fail-intake-manifold-img_20110715_230140.jpg

http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...-fail-intake-manifold-img_20110715_231551.jpg
 
Tell me about the vibrations.lol.... good job on the picks.I will have to try that soon im sure, but its not broke yet just put another 45 minutes of run time on it. I wish i had a machine shop- just to improve manufacturing defects from the Chinese.lol...
 
My "machine shop" consists of a socket wrench, some screwdrivers, a dremel tool, and a propane torch. Oh, let's not forget zip ties, duct tape and plenty of spray paint!
 
Good job on the quick fix for the broken intake manifold, S !

There IS room, I might have made it larger, just for strength. and file it a bit on the inside so a larger washer could be used for more bearing surface on the part of it that's not been broken... bbbut I guess you may have the new aftermarket manifold by now??
Best
rc
 
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