Old Guys Simplex moto-peddle bike

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indian22

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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butchl said:
Indian---I drove the T bucket in Dec. here in MIchigan. Unheard of before. Good weather. I love El'Nino.
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Butch I love that little guy too, been riding some most days (exception was a two day ice storm) but the weather in general has been great here for months. I haven't owned a hot rod roadster in a long time & envy those who cruise them.

Made much progress today on the gator. Welded motor mount tabs onto the front of the pedal bracket housing. My 125cc motor has 5 engine mount locations -2 on the bottom (front & rear) 2 more about mid crank case (front & rear) & one on the back of the head. Four of these use tube clamps Only the one attached to the bottom bracket now has welded tabs.

Finally cleaned the old white paint off the tiny section of frame which is original 1957 Simplex. Mounted the Rich Phillips "alligator hide" saddle to the "strap spring" & built a heavy top mount for the saddles rear air shock. Bolted the shock to the frame tubes using Harley D.frame clamps.

Then cut the Dual springer steerer tube... mounted the fork and wheel assembly, handle bars and controls. Hooked up the caliper...brakes are good.

Pedal side chain line is straight & I have great clearance past both frame & the 3" tire Thanks to modification of the vertical gusset tubes. Welded on an adjustable coaster brake arm tab & now have brakes on the rear as well. Brakes are still good things!

The "Copper gator" is now officially a pedal bike. I hope to complete the primary and secondary drive sprocket assembly tomorrow afternoon & mount the engine this weekend to verify that all lines up. I'll then disassemble for welding the side plates to the tank and top frames, metal cleanup and smoothing and paint. Most builds are pretty ugly during 90% of construction & this one is no different. I'll post the photos after re-sizing. Rick C.
 
indian22

indian22

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Thanks guys, not much accomplished on the Simplex this a.m. other stuff got in my way. Photos show show a "roller" with what I had on hand & the brake cable is a foot to short, the pedals 6" too wide & the grip leather too tan. I'll dye the leather while replacing the too wide pedal levers & short brake cable.

Engine side drive sprockets came in but not what I ordered so next week maybe? Still plan on bolting in motor for a trial fit tomorrow. Rick C.
 

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indian22

indian22

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Decided to use the sprockets I had to make up my non-reduction drive...joined the two 14 tooth sprockets (welded) then machined them to accept press fit 3/4" bearings. Plenty of frame and tire clearance. Sportsman adaptor is a good choice for wide tires (3" x 26") & rims (2.125") used on this build.

With the 5 speed 125 cc Honda clone & 56 tooth rear sprocket I saw no need for a reduction drive on the co-axle. Ludwig and others who are familiar with the Honda design credit it with great low end grunt. The rear tire and wheel combination is 28"+ in diameter which will hamper bottom end performance, but think it will still be adequate from a standstill. If not it's easy enough to make a reduction drive setup to rectify the problem. Rick C.
 

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Ludwig II

Ludwig II

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We had the law here many years ago about being able to propel a moped with pedals, and they could all be pedalled, even what were real sports motorcycles. It just wasn't easy or practical.
 
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indian22

indian22

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Butch I'm certain it won't be "easy" to pedal but not due to the weight of the completed bike (which I estimate at about 110 lbs.) The motor itself weighs in at approximately 60lbs. I'd think that's not too much different than an electric start, HF 4-stroke that's commonly used on forum builds with great success. I very much like what Ludwig said about "easy or practical" if I raise the saddle and move it's position to the rear over the axle it would be both easier & more practical to people power. I'm using a combination of 22 tooth pedal sprocket & 14 tooth wheel sprocket resulting in a 1.57 ratio in effect a final drive ratio made even higher due to the use of a 28"+ rear tire diameter. This combination won't yield much speed but substantially increases the ease of propulsion.
I very much like the idea of re-positioning the saddle a few inches further aft and raising it 4"+ as well, while incorporating 2" shorter pedal levers, making the Simplex much easier and more practical to pedal... though doing so would drastically alter the visual "board tracker look" I'd envisioned for this build. As it is I CAN pedal the "Gator" & I've dang near made seventy years of "edad" ...just couldn't pedal for very long !!
I previously incorporated a mountain bike seat dropper/shock in my Indian "Scout" build which allows full leg extension for more efficient pedaling power when extended and better control & style when compressed, but I'd require a seat bracket tube installed for this device to work on the Simplex "Gator"...hmm. Rick C.
 
indian22

indian22

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My goal with the pedal setup is for it to be a least as functional as the original 1910 board trackers. They were not built to race on people power but engine drive. They didn't even have functional brakes or throttle! They certainly didn't pedal start those race engines. I want the Gator to have the 1910 BT look & feel though Simplex never made a "tracker" & didn't build their first bikes until the mid-thirties. I also require that my bikes to be street safe & user friendly. Disk brakes, kick start & 21st. century engine with 5 speed integral are upgrades from 1910 that aren't authentic but they are what I require in this BT "style" custom. I'm very cop friendly & if tagging is necessary to comply I'll do it. My guess is that they will just give me a thumbs up & smile! Old age has a few perks.
Will tear down the Gator (again) for additional welding, cleanup & protective paint today. The copper comes in today which will be fabricated around & behind the fuel tank. 14 gauge sheet steel will first be welded to both sides of the frame & tank. Copper will then be resin bonded & bolted to this steel backing structure. Quite solid...no rattles. Finished effect will look much like a modified tear drop fuel tank, filling the gap between frame, tank & engine. Cosmetic, unique and functional too, as it will house & conceal the electrical components - CDI & coil.
Quite a bit of copper will be utilized as a contrasting metal; standing out among the chrome, raw aluminum & brass materials. Flat black frame and engine jug should make the different metals visually "pop"...least that's what I'm shooting for. I want the unique flowing lines & aggressive stance of the Simplex frame design to stand out & dominate the look of the build.
Planning on re-assembly next week & completion....? Rick C.
 

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indian22

indian22

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14ga. steel plate came in with the copper plate for the fuel tank panels. I cut a template from card stock & transferred the pattern to both steel & copper with a felt tip...now to cut & grind to fit tank & frame.
Fasteners shown are brass knurled nuts and Chicago brass fasteners that I'll be using here and there on the Simplex. Rick C.
 

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indian22

indian22

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Thanks Butch I'm making time to accomplish a bit each day on the Simplex Gator. The white 1936 Ford PU found a new home today so the hot rod collection is somewhat reduced...more time to work on other projects as a result.
Fabricated the steel "fuel tank" side panels today and welded in place, I liked the look and cut the copper plate which will overlay the 14 ga. steel, then bonded with epoxy and bolted in place. The pocket formed by the panels has sufficient room to house CDI, coil and lithium headlight battery.
I'll be tearing the bike back down to the frame for cleanup and paint & wouldn't be surprised if a bit more welding is also required for small last minute changes. Should be able to mount the engine next week, then fab the custom exhaust and muffler using all copper components in the construction. Rick C.
 
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