SB, the frame looks good and I kinda like the tank with that pinkish polka-dot like thing going on. Are we going from a "chick magnet" paint scheme to a "girlie" look? Nice work! It looks like you are figuring out the welding issues as you go which is what alot of us have to do. Dan
Old dog learns new trick...Welding!
- Thread starter silverbear
- Start date
Silverbear.
The tank and frame look great. Nice repair on the frame indeed.
I just thought of this as I was reading your post and meant to tell you. If you look inside the door of the welder you'll see a chart that gives you the wire speed and heat for different thicknesses of metal and what wire size to use. Mostly #030 for regular work and #023/#025 for auto body metal but that size may need gas to shield it as you weld. I believe #035 wire is for heavier metal like 3/8" but you should grind it on a 45 degree angle on both sides if you can so it penatrates well.
We will have to get a metal thickness guage to make it easier to judge how thick the metal is.
I hope the experienced welders weigh in on this information.
It's like the fella years ago who brought some furniture into my shop and wanted it restored just like it was in 1875 when it was all new. He then proceded to tell me how to do it and he was right on the money.
Had to ask him since he knew what to do why did he bring it to me? His answer was, to me, a classic one.
"I ain't never refinished any furniture but I read all about it".
That to me was a WTF moment which I try to avoid doing myself if I can.
fast(full of information)eddy
The tank and frame look great. Nice repair on the frame indeed.
I just thought of this as I was reading your post and meant to tell you. If you look inside the door of the welder you'll see a chart that gives you the wire speed and heat for different thicknesses of metal and what wire size to use. Mostly #030 for regular work and #023/#025 for auto body metal but that size may need gas to shield it as you weld. I believe #035 wire is for heavier metal like 3/8" but you should grind it on a 45 degree angle on both sides if you can so it penatrates well.
We will have to get a metal thickness guage to make it easier to judge how thick the metal is.
I hope the experienced welders weigh in on this information.
It's like the fella years ago who brought some furniture into my shop and wanted it restored just like it was in 1875 when it was all new. He then proceded to tell me how to do it and he was right on the money.
Had to ask him since he knew what to do why did he bring it to me? His answer was, to me, a classic one.
"I ain't never refinished any furniture but I read all about it".
That to me was a WTF moment which I try to avoid doing myself if I can.
fast(full of information)eddy
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Thanks for the encouragement, you guys. I'm learning slowly but surely.
Dan, I know how much you said you liked the girlyman pink cammo look, but I tried it and it just isn't me. I'm sure it will look good on your next build, though. Are you doing your "new" Chevy truck in pink cammo? Outstanding!
The frame has one coat of gloss black and the tank has it's second coat. What looks like a blob in the photo is some kind of reflection. Honest. One thing about gloss black... if there's a flaw you sure do see it. Pretty unforgiving.
After this photo was taken I got the center stand tack welded to the frame so it will no longer wander loose and now the frame has a second coat of finish. Going to look good, I think.
SB
Attachments
Great looking frame and tank, SB. What paint did you end up using? It looks wet.
And I can't wait to see Dan's pink cammo pickup. I hope he doesn't put those spoke wheels on it that keep turning after the truck stops. Maybe some pink fuzzy dice hanging from the mirror?
Tom
And I can't wait to see Dan's pink cammo pickup. I hope he doesn't put those spoke wheels on it that keep turning after the truck stops. Maybe some pink fuzzy dice hanging from the mirror?
Tom
Allen_Wrench
Resident Mad Scientist
Good thing he painted over it with black. If my daughter Liesl had seen all those pink polka dots, she'd be begging for a custom motorbike of her own. And that cute little hellion needs an engine in her bike like a lemming needs a cliff.
Kestrel Motors Inc.
New Member
Silverbear, are you using gas when you weld? I mean do you have a CO2 bottle hooked up? I didn't see one in your pictures, and I thought I'd mention that gas makes the welds cleaner and more sound. I never used gas and one day my dad set up our welder with it and now I'd never go back, if you haven't already, I would look into it.
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Kestrel,
While I intend for gas to be in my future, is is not in the budget at this time. I know it is much cleaner and less fuss, but flux core sure beats nothing by a long shot.
SB
While I intend for gas to be in my future, is is not in the budget at this time. I know it is much cleaner and less fuss, but flux core sure beats nothing by a long shot.
SB
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
I spent the day putting the 50 Panther back together, frame repaired and painted and the new gas tank in place. A new engine mount was made this morning and is now in paint, drying so that tomorrow the engine can go in place.
I discovered that the clam-shell hub adapter had come loose enough that the chain changed alignment and was the reason the chain rubbed against the chain stay. It is secured with lock tite and the new engine mount was made so the the engine has some lateral adjustment now. You can believe that I'll be watching that closely.
Having the bike stripped down also gave an opportunity to make some small changes to make the bike suit me better. One was in tack welding the center kick stand so that it can't loosen up and move on me. I also changed the fenders to a black set from a build a couple of years ago. The chrome ones were looking pretty tired. And I changed the rear rack. It did have an original one which limited how low the seat could go... the springs would run into the rack if too low and that made my seat higher than I wanted it. I don't care about pedaling comfort since I have no desire to pedal... they are a legal necessity, serve as foot rests and activate the coaster brake. The rack on it now is from a 1960's Schwinn American Deluxe which burned up in a fire a couple years ago. The rack survived the fire with a little blueing to the chrome. I have always liked it's lines and being so narrow where ti attaches at the seat post, it rides in between the seat springs, so the seat can go all the way down. That makes it easier for me to swing my leg over the seat.
I think the tank looks good and my deep thanks once more to Tinsmith for all of his help in it's making.
SB
I discovered that the clam-shell hub adapter had come loose enough that the chain changed alignment and was the reason the chain rubbed against the chain stay. It is secured with lock tite and the new engine mount was made so the the engine has some lateral adjustment now. You can believe that I'll be watching that closely.
Having the bike stripped down also gave an opportunity to make some small changes to make the bike suit me better. One was in tack welding the center kick stand so that it can't loosen up and move on me. I also changed the fenders to a black set from a build a couple of years ago. The chrome ones were looking pretty tired. And I changed the rear rack. It did have an original one which limited how low the seat could go... the springs would run into the rack if too low and that made my seat higher than I wanted it. I don't care about pedaling comfort since I have no desire to pedal... they are a legal necessity, serve as foot rests and activate the coaster brake. The rack on it now is from a 1960's Schwinn American Deluxe which burned up in a fire a couple years ago. The rack survived the fire with a little blueing to the chrome. I have always liked it's lines and being so narrow where ti attaches at the seat post, it rides in between the seat springs, so the seat can go all the way down. That makes it easier for me to swing my leg over the seat.
I think the tank looks good and my deep thanks once more to Tinsmith for all of his help in it's making.
SB
Attachments
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Thanks, Tom.
I think the Panther frame is a really classic design with pleasing lines. I'm not trying for any particular look, just using things I like that look good to me. The Suzuki fork is a dream to ride. Especially with the new tank it looks sleek and fast to my eye. This winter I'll redo the seat. It was my first seat rebuild a few years back and it's a little rough looking. Now I know how to do a better job of it.
I'm thinking of changing the rear sprocket to go bigger yet since this bike is going to get the canoe sidecar pictured in my avatar which will add some drag and weight. I'm trying to remember how many teeth AZBill has on his bike. 72 teeth, I think. I imagine that's what I'll need.
Glad you like the bike. I like it, too.
SB
I think the Panther frame is a really classic design with pleasing lines. I'm not trying for any particular look, just using things I like that look good to me. The Suzuki fork is a dream to ride. Especially with the new tank it looks sleek and fast to my eye. This winter I'll redo the seat. It was my first seat rebuild a few years back and it's a little rough looking. Now I know how to do a better job of it.
I'm thinking of changing the rear sprocket to go bigger yet since this bike is going to get the canoe sidecar pictured in my avatar which will add some drag and weight. I'm trying to remember how many teeth AZBill has on his bike. 72 teeth, I think. I imagine that's what I'll need.
Glad you like the bike. I like it, too.
SB
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Hey Steve,
I'm very much looking forward to our first cruise down Bear Head Rd. with sidecars. Your Monark with the Chris Craft boat and my Panther with the Grumman Canoe... woohoo! What fun! We'll have some welding to do on my sidecar frame to adapt it to the Panther.
Pretty soon I will stop calling it "the Panther" as the gas tank will have an "American Flyer" logo on each side.. The head badge already reads " Schwinn American Flyer". I'll take a picture of it tomorrow when the engine is installed and it is up and running. I've missed riding it.
SB
I'm very much looking forward to our first cruise down Bear Head Rd. with sidecars. Your Monark with the Chris Craft boat and my Panther with the Grumman Canoe... woohoo! What fun! We'll have some welding to do on my sidecar frame to adapt it to the Panther.
Pretty soon I will stop calling it "the Panther" as the gas tank will have an "American Flyer" logo on each side.. The head badge already reads " Schwinn American Flyer". I'll take a picture of it tomorrow when the engine is installed and it is up and running. I've missed riding it.
SB
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
Not that you have specific need for thicker weld metal capability, but my Auto Arc MIG Hobart 130 mentions that using flux core you can weld a little thicker. I just wanted to mention though, I have only used with gas hook up AR CO2 and got 7/32 inch done even with the 0.024 solid wire with volts all the way up. I also have 0.030 solid wire but have not tried that yet or flux.
One thing I do is when in between welding leave the power turned on so the fan keeps running between welding to help even more cooling off. I like to make sure that I turn the volts all the way down and the feed to minimum too. I keep the nozzle trigger propped up somewhere so it does not inadvertently go on. When done I always take the tension off the wheel and that is useful also as I prefill the gas line and set the flow rate without wasting wire as it can’t move without wheel tension.
MT
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
SB Looks real nice with the large headlamp up front!
MT
MT
DaveC
Member
He's very right about leaving the welder running between welds and I'll tell you why. It was a hot day when I was welding and I thought it would be a good idea to turn the welder off. It was like 4-6 minutes between welds. After a bit the welder shut down and would not run again. I took to Norco to get it fixed. When they called me about what was wrong they told me it was the thermosistor, a device that shuts down a overheated welder but in my case I fried it. They told me they could replace or bypass the circut. I had them bypass it, figured I could run it normal and it would be ok. When I went to pick it up I was stunned at what they wanted for the cut and splice job...$160!!! I should have told them to stuff it but I paid them and vowed to NEVER go back. Yes, it did work but I could have got a new one from Harbor Freight for that. I buy my welding supplies form OxArc, ACE, and where ever else. Lowest price for flux core wire right now is Lowes', $44 for a 10 lb spool of flux core.
The welder is still running, in fact I'll be useing it here in a few days to start welding on my bike
Ibedayank
New Member
Lincoln Electric 10 Lbs. .035mm Flux Welding Wire
Item #: 178795 | Model #: ED016354
$65.98
wish I could pay $44 a roll
http://www.lowes.com/pd_178795-1703...core+welding+wire&pl=1¤tURL=&facetInfo=
area code 38401
Item #: 178795 | Model #: ED016354
$65.98
wish I could pay $44 a roll
http://www.lowes.com/pd_178795-1703...core+welding+wire&pl=1¤tURL=&facetInfo=
area code 38401
DaveC
Member
I went looking, too, and found that the price has gone up almost $20 since I bought my last spool.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...gId=-1&keyword=lincoln+electric&storeId=10051
I found it at the time by searching the net. Maybe if you're lucky there's a sale somewhere
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...gId=-1&keyword=lincoln+electric&storeId=10051
I found it at the time by searching the net. Maybe if you're lucky there's a sale somewhere