New F80 motor is running rough
- Thread starter MitchP
- Start date
Bro, Then you should hurry and warn all the mecanical engineers, chemist's and mathematicians at Ski Doo that, I would assume, spent a dollar or two doing the research themselves. You seem to know more than a multi million dollar corporation and I'm sure they would like to hear from you.
And of course they were talking 2 stroke oil for 2 stroke engines.
I at least tried to show you something without telling you of my degree's, and gave you a link to read. If you want to inform a person, Actually RECOMMEND something, not just SOME BOOK accepted by the American Society of Mechanical Engineers. This only makes it sound like you have a B.S. degree in B.S. And any information that can be found in a book may also be found on the internet these days. It's really come a long way in the last few years.
fatdaddy.
P.S. My last BGF engine lasted 4 1/2 years. When your engine hits 5 years I'll switch to synthetic.
And of course they were talking 2 stroke oil for 2 stroke engines.
I at least tried to show you something without telling you of my degree's, and gave you a link to read. If you want to inform a person, Actually RECOMMEND something, not just SOME BOOK accepted by the American Society of Mechanical Engineers. This only makes it sound like you have a B.S. degree in B.S. And any information that can be found in a book may also be found on the internet these days. It's really come a long way in the last few years.
fatdaddy.
P.S. My last BGF engine lasted 4 1/2 years. When your engine hits 5 years I'll switch to synthetic.
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In my experience, the advantage of synthetic is its much better resistance to heat breakdown compared to conventional oils. It does not degrade at high temps as quickly as regular oils, This is a BIG advantage is a race engine or a daily driver. Two stroke oil is no different. Better is better, period.
The best way in my opinion is to break it in on conventional oil and then switch to synthetic. But I agree synthetic does not PREVENT break in, it just takes a lot longer.
The only thing not to like about synthetic oil is the price.
The best way in my opinion is to break it in on conventional oil and then switch to synthetic. But I agree synthetic does not PREVENT break in, it just takes a lot longer.
The only thing not to like about synthetic oil is the price.
price is honestly the only reason I havent bought any. That and I'm trying to find AmSoil 2 stroke full synthetic or Opti-2 but cant seem to find any. The tiny amount you use per gallon is well worth the price, it's just that initial cost (I know it's only $10 but half the time when I need oil, I dont have the money)
Napa usually stocks amsoil in various flavors, I've not seen one that didn't carry it - but they're all a lil different *shrug*
Just as a BTY the reasons I run synthetic are;
I'm lazy, I don't need to go get as much
I'm cheap, I get more for my money @ 100:1
It mixes with ethanol blends better & stays emulsified
I've never had any problems with the stuff in any engine
...and that's about it, note I didn't make any preformance or longevity claims as honestly, without a dyno there's no way to be sure it wasn't due to environmental variables. I really do think it comes down to whatever you're comfy with - scared of lean synthetic mixes?
Don't run it lol
Just as a BTY the reasons I run synthetic are;
I'm lazy, I don't need to go get as much
I'm cheap, I get more for my money @ 100:1
It mixes with ethanol blends better & stays emulsified
I've never had any problems with the stuff in any engine
...and that's about it, note I didn't make any preformance or longevity claims as honestly, without a dyno there's no way to be sure it wasn't due to environmental variables. I really do think it comes down to whatever you're comfy with - scared of lean synthetic mixes?
Don't run it lol
Was purchasing Amsoil from a local bike dealer until I realized I could get it from the source if i just go to his house at almost half the cost of what the dealer was providing.
I just looked him up on the net, called him. Drove to his house.
http://www.lubedealer.com/lowellamsoildealer/
I think ya got it right maniac, A synthetic is way too slik to do a proper break in on these engines. A real engine were you expect to get 100,000 miles (or more,) out of it will, eventually, break in on a synthetic. But some say it never really breaks in completly with a synthetic. And these little chinese made Russian knock off's are probably not going to get to 100,000 miles, even on a synthetic. SO, Break in with regular oil, Then switch to a Synthetic if ya want. I'm just NOT gonna ride my bike 1,000 miles before it breaks in and I can REALLY ride it.
Also, On a high milage engine I don't think you can just go straight to a synthetic. Regular oil forms a seal between the rings and the cylinder. The thinner synthetics, having smaller molecules, wouldn't be able to form this seal. An engine that used a synthetic from a low milage stage will break in with a tighter seal between the rings and cylinder. So you can go from a synthetic to a regular oil, You just can't go from a regular oil to a synthetic, especially on a high milage engine. I think this is the problem 2door was having with one of his high milage engines.
I also think your right about cooling. But I think the oil is only a very small part of this. Regardless of the oil used the main cooling component is fuel. A lot more fuel flows through the engine then oil, Making this the main cooling source. You might reduce the temp a degree or two with synthetics, But at normal operating temps this difference would be negligible.
And when I said synthetic oil is not REAL oil I was only half right. When synthetics first came out, YEARS AGO, (yeah, I'm old.) They were developed using sources other than crude. Then, cost being the major factor, The oil companies firured out how to wrangle the crude oil molecules into what we now know as synthetic oil. So, They changed the molecular structure of oil into something else, which still makes it something other than REAL oil.
And chevelle, I want to apoligize for the degree in B.S. remark. This was uncalled for. I still think if you're going to tell someone to educate themselves you should at least point them in the right direction. When I think, in my humble opinion, that a person needs to know something I will do my best to recommend a source for this. And although I have some degree's of my own, I don't need to dig them out of the bottom of my drawer and use them to prove I know something.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY,
(Then use whichever oil that feels right to YOU.)
fatdaddy.
More light reading. But, like everyone else, this guy might have a bias of his own.
http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm
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Got to about page 35 and jumped to the final chapter of this book, as I'm sure a lot of people did. Just got tired of reading page after page, (after page,) Of what GREAT stuff opti-2 was. Not saying it is or ain't at this point, just sayin I got tired of reading the same thing over and over again.
I think though my conclusion remains the same. Non synthetic for break in, Then, ONLY IF YA FEEL IT, switch to opti-2. Out of 35 pages, (350 posts,) I only saw a couple people not agree with the general concensus on this subject. (Then went to the end and was reading the same things, AGAIN.)
My problem though may be the same problem Tom had with his high milage engine. After 4 1/2 years of beating my little engine to death, I replaced it with an engine I purchased for $20 from a customer I built a bike for approximately 1 1/2 years ago. He left it behind his neighbors car and got it ran over. Killed the frame and wheels, didn't touch the engine. SO, I have no idea how many miles are on this engine and didn't think to ask at the time. I MIGHT, MAYBE, buy enough opti-2 for a tank or two just to see what happens. This way if I have a high milage Vs. opti-2 problem I'm not out of any amount of cash. A little more power pushing my 240lb butt around town would be apreaciated. I guess it's never too late for an old dog to learn a new trick. But if my engine blows I'm blaming each and every one of you opti-2 conspirator guys, (just kidding.)
fatdaddy.
FD, if your engine blows just let me know. I'll get a check in the mail; and we've all heard that other lie that people tell.
A little odd that the Chevelle guy never commented on the 100:1 thread.
Maybe he's still reading it
Tom
A little odd that the Chevelle guy never commented on the 100:1 thread.
Maybe he's still reading it
Tom
I agree with you biknut, I run full synthetic Lucus 20W-50 motor oil in the Primary case, Transmission and Engine of my 2007 1584cc Harley Davidson FXSTC, the transmission takes a beating on these bikes as does the Primary chain and clutches, Harley Davidson does not recommend using conventional 20W-50 motor oil in anything but the engine itself and only recommends Full Synthetic oils for use in all three areas at the 20W-50 grade, the reason for this is that Synthetic oils perform better under shear, stress and heat than conventional oils of the same weight/grade, the 20w-50 Full Syn. does as good of a job or better than a much heavier grade dino oil in the transmission and primary chain case and clutches.
I also have a little 150cc Roketa Scooter that I was having over heating issues with and excessive crankcase pressure which was forcing oil out of the PCV vent at highway 60 mph speeds that run that engine at around 7000 rpm's, I switched from the high grade Valvoline 4 Stroke motorcycle oil over to Full Synthetic Lucus and also tried some Mobile 1, after the switch, no more over heating issues and no more oil out of the PCV Vent, nothing else was changed, I've seen great results from using Synthetic 2 stroke oil in a boat engine I had, a 112HP Evenrude that planed out quicker and had a 5 mph top speed increase after switching over to Schaeffer Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil, the guy I sold the boat to last year is still using that oil in it and swears by it also.
I still say people should run what they want, at least for now this is still a somewhat free country and we all have many choices, I personally use Synthetics based on all the excellent result I've had while doing my real world test on the many engines and types of engines I've owned and own.
I've found that Synthetics perform best in all my engines and give me what I have found to be the best bang for my $buck$ so I stick with them.
If it makes you happy and you have faith in it.....run it...its all pretty good stuff now days, I just like the extra protection I get with Syn. oils.
By the way I LOVE OPTI2............! nothing but great results for last 4 years, bike engines, weed wackers, chainsaws......they all run great on it, no failures on it so far, turn some friends and family on to it also, they all like it just the way I do now.
Peace, Map
I put one of the 6.5 oz bottles of 2 stroke oil from wally world in about 3/4 gal. gas for the break-in run . Then after getting confused by all the posts about this I put 6.5 oz. to 1 gal. . Then I read more got confused again scratched my bald head and decided its running great with the 6.5 to 1 so why change . So now when my gallon can of fuel empties I put 6.5 oz of 2 stroke oil in it and fill it up from the 5 gallon gas can I use in my riding lawn mower . I have used 4 3/4 gals riding my 80cc ?? china girl so far and it is still running great . I am an industrial construction electrican have always told people if it hooks up to the wires comming off the pole or plugs into the wall I might know something about it , but if it pulls up to a gas pump then its out of my department . I also use the highest octane gas available at what ever station I fill the 5 gal. can at .
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