My First Motorbike Project

Lol, nope I'm not kidding and I did not know that. Didn't know it was all electromagnetic, with the magnetic part it does not need to touch the metal direct connection since it picks up its signals like that?

Hope it's accurate that way. Is it more accurate if it did touch the wire with direct contact/ connection? Do you know? (Just curious)
 
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I'm sure there are instructions with the tachometer.

Lol, gera, beware of signs saying "Wet paint" and "Hot! Do not touch!"
 
I am asking questions prior to it arriving so I will be ready to install it. I will get it early next week.
 
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I have found on these tachs, I have 3, that you dont need the grounding ring. It works fine and just as accurately with out it. I just snip em off. Cleans up the installation. Verify for yourself though.
 
Gera,
I took 'The Beast' out for a 20 mile ride yesterday & when I got back & choked off the engine to coast the rest of the distance into my driveway, I heard a unusual sound coming from my clutch driver. I removed the driver & found one broken clutch spring. The broken end didnt get into the drum area thankfully. I removed the broken spring & pilaged a new one off my spare parts engine. Installed the new one & good to go again. That was the 1st clutch spring I ever broke & hope it isn't a trend...
-Lowracer-
 
Unfortunately, my tachometer did not come with any instructions when I got it today.

One wire is black and one is red (with a big circle attaching thing at the tip of it) (Looks like this one goes around the spark plug?)

Does it go around the spark plug? Which one is the ground wire?
Which one do I wrap around the spark plug WIRE? (If so, then I don't think any attach to the spark plug?)

Also I do not know how to use the tachometer. I noticed that if I press and hold buttons I would get to certain settings. Hmmmm. Explain please?
 
Ok so I figured I was running too lean. How? Well I let the engine start, then I revved it for a little bit and then it just bogged out on me and shut down. (Bogged out as in I pull the throttle but the engine just wants to shut down, I let it go and it's good again.)

Also, I figured I was running idle at 1600 RPM using a replica tachometer. I'm guessing that's too low.
I do not know if it was an accurate number with the tachometer (I hope I did not get a P.O.S. broken tachometer), but assuming that the tachometer is accurate I think I'm idling too low. (Engine does seem like it's actually revving too high for idle. Kind of like I'm giving it a little throttle. BUT I do not know what a too high idle speed is.)

So I'm thinking it was the clutch spring problem I had that made the clutch engage at such a low rpm (if my tachometer is really accurate, then new springs should do the trick. But if it's not accurate then idk. Going to get new springs soon.).
 
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I guess I don't need ground (wire with circle), it did not seem to make any difference.

BUT when I put the ground wire with circle tip on the spark plug it did however show RPMs, but I think it's because it went from the ground red wire(with circle tip) to the black wire "electromagnetically."
Am I right?

Also if you know anything about the settings please let me know. What is your setting if you press and hold S1? Mines is 01 RPM although I do now know what the numbers stand for. To change the number you just keep holding S1 until it changes.


@cannonball
I will be more than happy if I know what your stable idle RPM is as well as what carburetor you use.
 
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@Lowracer
After spending some time in pocketbike planet I find it hard to believe that you are idling at 2700 RPM without engagement using the steel 3 spring clutch. They say the 3 shoe clutch usually engages at around 1400-1800 RPM with the HP springs.

What is your tachometer settings? (Cuz I hope it's showing the correct rpm)

Also lift your bike does the wheel spin?

Is the clutch bell on your belt bully bearing thing larger in diameter than the stock clutch bell on the stock clutch cover?
 
Today was a success because I figured out the problem (I guess.).

Previously I was running 25:1 using non synthetic oil that had fuel stabilizer in it and was also running 87 octane gas.

Today my gas tank ran out (the previous mix must have lubricated it very well lol, well that was my break in where I did not even get to ride it lol). So I took amsoil dominator and mixed it at 35:1 ratio with 91 octane fuel and boom it idles at 1250 rpm very good (if my tach is accurate). It does not smell as bad. And this time idle speed sounded better than last time, it sounded like idle should sound, maybe revved a little harder still.

Took spark plug out and looked like it was too lean because the tip was turning white. Previously it was black and it looked like it had some hard black carbon deposits on it and felt textural.

So I put in a 0.80mm jet and now the spark plug is black without those hard carbon deposits and feels smooth. I hope a black plug is right.
Maybe previously I was running too much oil or the wrong octane gasoline or maybe because the oil was bad which caused the spark plug to have hard carbon deposits on the tip to stick on it and feel textury.

Clutch still engages at 1250 rpm however. Going to put the HP clutch soon.

I revved and max RPM I achieved was about 5700 rpm. I do not know exactly why it is so low, but might be my tachometer? I have a tachometer setting to double the RPM however. I do not know what's the correct setting to use.

I used the exhaust adapter that came with the exhaust and the hole did seem a bit off and smaller than it could have been. Could this be restricting exhaust causing the engine the revv lower?
 
Double your rpm readings.

Your engine SHOULD idle @ 2500rpm, not 1250rpm.

If your engine is SCREAMING, then it's turning 11,400rpm, not 5,700rpm.

Try a smaller jet; seems like you're rich.

Better yet, wait until you actually ride the bike.
 
The tach probably has a 2 cylinder setting and you are on it. Toggle through the menu and look for some method of cylinder selection.
 
I did not get the instruction manual and so I really don't know how to adjust the settings.
Can you guys tell me what your settings are and how you got them?
 
My bikes are 4 strokes, totally different game. I think I have a set of instructions, I will try to find them, might have gotten tossed though.
 
I was right about the cylinder selection. To set hold the S1 button for 4 sec. look for # 02 to cycle around. This is plug fires once/revolution. Release the button when the 02 appears on the display. It should blink for ten secs. the return to the hour display
 
So I got the skateboard riser pads today but they feel plastic even though it said rubber in the description.

Is this how it should be?
 
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