My First Motorbike Project

No, if you bought the correct ones off eBay they are definitely rubber feeling & flexible(not plastic).
-Lowracer-
 
I contacted the Ebay seller and he said he was out of stock with the rubber ones.
Man I hate delays especially that my break started and I have a lot of free time.

And Lowracer, are you clutch pads steel or aluminum? (You can check by magnet). The center hole which is the little triangle that holds all the clutch pads together is steel, but are the clutch pads themselves steel or aluminum?
 
Put in the aluminum clutch I got from ebay for $9 and it idles very good without engaging now. No spring snapped in 5 miles of riding, but the clutch did start to scream when it go hot I guess because it was slipping. Fixed it by letting it sit for 10 seconds, and revved it with the back wheel picked up then sat and road without any slipping. (Lol idk how that solved the problem.)

In 1/10th of a mile my bike accelerated to 33 mph. Never got to see my max because that's all the space I had. How much can you get to at 1/10th of a mile? And yes it was too fast for me.
 
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Still wondering how lowracer is running without engagement at 2700rpm (He said he idles between 2500rpm - 3000 rpm) with his stock steel clutch.
I came up with several conclusions:
1: He uses a belt driver clutch housing and clutch plate. (So it might be a different size and maybe larger in diameter.)
2: The Chinese clutch bell is not in the perfect center, thus it is noticeably slightly wobbly.
3: My springs were stretched out and needed to be replaced with stronger springs.
4: My springs were loose and needed to be bent at the edges to make them tighter so they do not move around when you touch them.

Those are possibilities, I do not know if I plan on playing with the steel clutch again because I am happy with the aluminum clutch. Unless you convince me the steel clutch is better for a reason.

Springs my snap less now because when I go to a stop the aluminum clutch disengages earlier, so less rubbing around the bell thus the springs may last longer.
Spring snapping problem was probably due to this and heat build up with my other clutch.

Also lost my idle screw today and rode it and engine was loud. Hope nothing flew out of the idle hole (Are there little pieces or parts inside the carb right across the idle hole in the 14/14 del rep carb? If not then I guess I am fine and nothing flew out.). But I suppose it was running too lean because the idle hole let the extra air in.
 
Today my spark plug collapsed while doing full throttle from a stop to an end lol. Road full throttle for about 6 miles and spark plug collapsed. Replaced the plug and it collapsed again after a couple hundred feet of riding.

What can this be?

Here is a picture:
Pocket Bike Forum - Mini Bikes
 
Spark plug collapsed?

Do you mean that the plug is smashed and the plug gap is zero?

Maybe wrong sparkplug length?
 
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Can't be. I've road it over 25 miles already, if that was the case then it would have happened a long time ago.

I opened the head up and guess what?
A small piece of metal was in there. Every once in a while it would smash on the spark plug tip and smash it. But otherwise my piston dome and piston are all scratched up now :(.

I do in fact wonder where that piece of metal came from. Probably not from the carburetor because the jet holes would probably be too small to let that piece of metal through. It was steel (engine casing is aluminum).
I will post pictures soon.
But at least it operates even with the scratches :).
 
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Coulda been dropped in there during original assembly, coulda been deliberately dropped down the carb's throat.:-||

Who knows, right?
 
gera229 said:
Put in the aluminum clutch I got from ebay for $9 .......... but the clutch did start to scream when it go hot I guess because it was slipping.

.....
Click to expand...

hi !

would be more than clever resonable to make a woodruffkey groove into the Clutch center plate (most of the 3-shoe clutches these days are without the Groove even that Cranks have the Groove. some cranks do not have the Groove..)

as the 3-shoe Clutch center/base plates are relatively skinny, it would be good to modify the STD woodruffkey by lowering it so that Groove into the Base plate would not have to be so deep.

end of Clutch Slipping at Crank and BURNING making the crank shaft Diam smaller !


i have 6 Cag engines, all 40mm diam Bores. all them are assemblyed and made in different factoryes from different Submanufacturer parts brands (casting marks logos etc), which is of course super intresting as i can see various differences on them.

for example i have 3~4 different Crank assy models, with different conrod's etc. and also some are with and some without Clutch w-d-key grooves.

the Clutch w-d-key is exactly same as Flywheel w-d-key.


on my Std 3-shoe Clutches (that i dont use) the Clutch arms are Aluminium alloy. Difficult to read tell about the manufacturer logo as its Vague.. The 3-shoe Clutch model of mine as New weights 289Grams if i remember correctly (i have notes at home..)

my model:
http://www.miniatureimports.co.uk/images/DSC06769.jpg
MINI MOTO MINIMOTO DIRT BIKE RACE BIKE QUAD CLUTCH 3 SHOES (FREE CLUTCH SPRINGS) | eBay


Those Steel metal center/base plates ive seen at least 3 different models regarding Pivot Bolt fittment and Blate Material, other good service able and other Mushroomed Punched locked even that it has M6 thread in it (Not good model at all)

That linked clutch above is with the Perfect Base/center Plate (material and M6 Pivot bolt fittment ideology..)

as a test i ordered "heavy duty" springs (titled so) from ebay seller "Hk-motos", and they by eye are exactly same as those springs on Above linked Clutch.
These: Mini Moto Performance Clutch Spring Set 3 Springs Parts | eBay


And what comes to your unknown metal object ( i havent looked the photos yet) and conrod bottom end Needle bearing type/model, its highly possible that Needlebearing can collapse burn seize partially especially if engine has been running Lean no matter short or longer period.

these Cag Needle Bearings are not High tech or best Quality. For example some Topend Needle bearings will popout a Needle if ya drop the Bearing into table from 20~50cm distance BECAUSE the Free floating "Locking mechanism" for Needles is very Loose and tiny about 0,1mm or so Cage material Crushed at each end of Needle....

This is not a Problem as the Sideways movement is very little @ Needlebearing/piston/conrod fittment and Needle Bearing wont ever have a "Peak out" more than approx 2mm from each side....
But anyway, always check carefully Topend NeedleBearing(s).


race Conrod's for 125cc 2t's etc can have "Less friction totally Floating Loose Needles" at Bottomend Needle Bearing, which are assemblyed with Grease when assembling Crank assy/fitting Conrod assy. in a Controvercy to Old fashion regular NeedleBearing Constructions...where Needles are permanent "fixed fittment" to Needle cage..

Bye:)
m
 
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It WAS actually a needle bearing lol.
Me running lean? Can't be. I was running lean when I first got my engine for like the first 10 miles then I switched to a bigger jet. Now it has about 50 miles and this problem just recently happened and I'm running the stock jet (80 mm) and my spark plug was greyish/black. So a tad bit too rich which is good?
I mean it might have been some other problem or the fuel didn't lubricate that spot well enough.

Needle bearing must have broken for some other reason.

But next time I get a new crank I think I'm going to oil it with 4 stroke oil, just a tad bit of 4 stroke oil should make it last for good. If you have any suggestions to keep my crank reliable please let me know.

Has it happened to you before? I mean how do you know about this stuff?
 
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Got the rubber pads yesterday and they're flexible, but their not like that flexible because their thick 1/2" rubber pads. Hope they absorb vibrations good.

Lowracer,
Did your tachometer have a ground wire?
 
gera229 said:
It WAS actually a needle bearing lol.
Me running lean? Can't be. I was running lean when I first got my engine for like the first 10 miles then I switched to a bigger jet. Now it has about 50 miles and this problem just recently happened and I'm running the stock jet (80 mm) and my spark plug was greyish/black...............

...................

But next time I get a new crank I think I'm going to oil it with 4 stroke oil, just a tad bit of 4 stroke oil should make it last for good. ...................

..
Click to expand...

hi !

depending about Bearing material Quality, it doesnt necessarely need to seize, if RUN with lean carb settings no matter how short period, the Radial Clearence can grow and hence give more free play for Needle(s) to move and Cause friction&rattle and kinda "Blow-up".

Your carb most likely is at least partially lean at some Throttle Stages especially if your using the POS original free flow "power Filter". Because it doesnt provide Helmholz resonance and equal amount of Air per every stage, it makes all sorts of problems depending about carb model....

i wont claim absolute at all that yours is Lean as i cannot see and ride it my self, but if anything hasnt changed on SHA's and Cloned SHA's and filters its the same as always has been with them.

no matter what Carb model and size, the Helmolz in 2-strokes is 1000% important with the correct Air Volume per induction Suction pulse.

its worth experimenting and then you see the differences in performance and carb rev range behaviour. that includes how rev's rise and especially how the rev's drop and WONT sale between the transit..


regarding pre oiling ConRod, 4stroke oil doesnt help you at all, any oil doesnt help you at all as its 2-stroke ,and no matter what you use will be burned in couple minutes as it isnt lubricated as 4T is. all it helps is couple mins, its good but wont save anything if something would be wrong..

of course i pre-lube parts also, mainly for reasons other than 1st start.

only thing you can do is to be sure about jetting/clean air and correct Premix ratio and ignition advance.


btw, as i have the new OEM SHA 16.16 and some cag engines still to be build, ill be using the SHA. but 1st i need to see if there is suitable cag metal aluminium alloy intake manifold for it + the carb fittment pvc collar.

if you know any Fittment Diameters for the usual or different cag intake manifolds for SHA, please let me know. ive seen some sellers claiming some are 14.14 and some 15.15 meaning 14mm and 15mm fittment diam.

if there isnt suitable Manifold + PVC collar for 16.16sha, i would have to make1 my self on a lathe (which i havent yet assemblyed..)

i got my new SHA from bike breaker yard for free when i was picking up Cag parts from wet grown wild field forest jungle. my treasure land...

bye:)
m
 
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My revvs look smooth and don't just jump up and down when I give it throttle.
I have the UFO air filter and 14/14 del rep carb. When I took out my spark plug it was greyish/blackish so I think I'm running pretty much perfect.
Lowracer never had a problem like me though lol. He has the same exact set up.

Dax sells the 14/14 aluminum alloy intake manifold with gasket for $2 excluding shipping charges.
 
Hey lowracer when you got your kit from ebay from hobbytown did you do anything prior to installing? Did you polish anything/ sand anything such as the rough edges in the cylinder and piston rings?
I mean I didn't really do it, but if you have no problems then I guess I will be fine without polishing anything.
I hope rough edges don't scratched the cylinder.
Thanks.
 
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Ok.
By the way I found a leak. Some slight amount of oil was leaking out of the head between the cylinder and the top thing where the circular copper gasket goes. Took it out and the gasket was black. Applied permatex copper sealant and cleaned the gas mixture out. Put everything back in and still the leak remains.
It actually now has troubles running. If I give it gas it just wants to turn off. The carburetor was cleaned. Same problem.

I guess it's the leak causing this problem.

By the way do you have 2 copper base gaskets or just 1 0.020" gasket?
Will gasket maker work at the head?
 
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