"kindalikeawhizzer"
- Thread starter silverbear
- Start date
This has been a nice Christmas due in part to you friends stopping by from the forum.
I'll be picking up an inexpensive blade balancer, so thanks for the suggestion. I do want for the engine to run smoothly and with minimal vibration.
The screw on muffler arrived in the mail and looks good on the copper exhaust pipe. Nice to know that I can run the pipe as a straight exhaust or tone it down for quieter running with the muffler. I look forward to hearing the exhaust in both versions. Vroom...
Also in the mail was the little compression release valve which will make for easier engine starting. I'll pull the engine soon to drill and tap a hole for it next to the spark plug. A wee bit nervous about that, but will proceed slowly and with caution. While I'm at that I want to switch places for the engine drain plug. Right now it is at the base of the rear of the engine and will need to be at the new low point once the engine is mounted at a tilt, so it will be located at the front for easy draining.
I've also been mocking up an intake manifold for the carburetor which utilizes part of the old Tecumseh carburetor A few copper pipe bits will connect it to a new Mikuni motorcycle type of carb, looking like a grown up version of a China girl NT carb. It is supposed to be a good one. The old Tecumseh carb looked pretty rough with some pitting inside. Fasteddy will be sending the Mikuni after the holidays. It will look good, too, which is a plus. I'll probably make a flying tuna air filter for it from a tuna fish can or maybe look around for something made of brass. Open for suggestions.
Also have been pondering a change in suspension forks. The one on it now is a Hercules and due to an incompatible length in the head tube it would require a fair amount of shimming. Also it is fairly light duty in comparison to an unused Suzuki K-10 fork I have which needs a home. It is the best fork I've used and have one on my American Flyer. With heavier oil it gives a great ride and is also very good looking. The downside is it's greater weight and the wider span of the legs, so I'll have to see that the drum brake hub axle will fit okay. I also have a used fork from a light weight Harley Davidson as an alternative. So, some serious staring and measuring is in order.
That's it for now. See you some time around the new year for show and tell.
SB
I'll be picking up an inexpensive blade balancer, so thanks for the suggestion. I do want for the engine to run smoothly and with minimal vibration.
The screw on muffler arrived in the mail and looks good on the copper exhaust pipe. Nice to know that I can run the pipe as a straight exhaust or tone it down for quieter running with the muffler. I look forward to hearing the exhaust in both versions. Vroom...
Also in the mail was the little compression release valve which will make for easier engine starting. I'll pull the engine soon to drill and tap a hole for it next to the spark plug. A wee bit nervous about that, but will proceed slowly and with caution. While I'm at that I want to switch places for the engine drain plug. Right now it is at the base of the rear of the engine and will need to be at the new low point once the engine is mounted at a tilt, so it will be located at the front for easy draining.
I've also been mocking up an intake manifold for the carburetor which utilizes part of the old Tecumseh carburetor A few copper pipe bits will connect it to a new Mikuni motorcycle type of carb, looking like a grown up version of a China girl NT carb. It is supposed to be a good one. The old Tecumseh carb looked pretty rough with some pitting inside. Fasteddy will be sending the Mikuni after the holidays. It will look good, too, which is a plus. I'll probably make a flying tuna air filter for it from a tuna fish can or maybe look around for something made of brass. Open for suggestions.
Also have been pondering a change in suspension forks. The one on it now is a Hercules and due to an incompatible length in the head tube it would require a fair amount of shimming. Also it is fairly light duty in comparison to an unused Suzuki K-10 fork I have which needs a home. It is the best fork I've used and have one on my American Flyer. With heavier oil it gives a great ride and is also very good looking. The downside is it's greater weight and the wider span of the legs, so I'll have to see that the drum brake hub axle will fit okay. I also have a used fork from a light weight Harley Davidson as an alternative. So, some serious staring and measuring is in order.
That's it for now. See you some time around the new year for show and tell.
SB
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I forgot to thank folks for weighing in on the engine mounts. I can see the wisdom in having at least one of them welded to the frame and would think the best choice for which one would be the lowest one which would be at the base of the front down tube. It shoulders most of the weight and will make a good reference point. Good to have a plan.
SB
SB
The sharing of ideas on the forum is priceless 
Using split shaft collars to create very solid engine mounts was something that I hadn't thought of before and now that I've read all about it here I will be using this method myself when I mount up the engine in my own Sociable creation.
Thank you gentlemen
Using split shaft collars to create very solid engine mounts was something that I hadn't thought of before and now that I've read all about it here I will be using this method myself when I mount up the engine in my own Sociable creation.Thank you gentlemen
Welding the split collar to the frame is an excellent idea. If the frame isn't one you want to leave original it would indeed make remounting the engine much easier.
I looked at the Seal Sociable again. It is apparently a 4 passenger body and has a 1,000cc engine originally. The body would be easy to reproduce or in the in the case of the Kindalikeawhizzer Sociable a mahogany upper body crafted to fit the canoe lower.
Better clear the deck at Bike Camp this summer. Finish off the Tri car which really just needs the final touches and then we can have a Sociable Time.
Get the big beer cooler out this summer. I sense a lot of creative staring happening this year.
Steve.
I looked at the Seal Sociable again. It is apparently a 4 passenger body and has a 1,000cc engine originally. The body would be easy to reproduce or in the in the case of the Kindalikeawhizzer Sociable a mahogany upper body crafted to fit the canoe lower.
Better clear the deck at Bike Camp this summer. Finish off the Tri car which really just needs the final touches and then we can have a Sociable Time.
Get the big beer cooler out this summer. I sense a lot of creative staring happening this year.
Steve.
Anne,
You are so right. If you have a problem all you have to do is present it here and it will be solved.
Steve.
You are so right. If you have a problem all you have to do is present it here and it will be solved.
Steve.
Building and owning something like the Seal Sociable with its 4 seater body and 1000cc V twin would be the absolute bee's knees; - BUT common sense must prevail (sigh). My rebuild of my old rickshaw will end up being a 1&1/2 seater as my daughter will certainly want to go for a ride with me occasionally and won't mind squeezing in. As for an engine it will be Villiers all the way (surprise surprise!).Welding the split collar to the frame is an excellent idea. If the frame isn't one you want to leave original it would indeed make remounting the engine much easier.
I looked at the Seal Sociable again. It is apparently a 4 passenger body and has a 1,000cc engine originally. The body would be easy to reproduce or in the in the case of the Kindalikeawhizzer Sociable a mahogany upper body crafted to fit the canoe lower.
Better clear the deck at Bike Camp this summer. Finish off the Tri car which really just needs the final touches and then we can have a Sociable Time.
Get the big beer cooler out this summer. I sense a lot of creative staring happening this year.
Steve.
Lipton's ice green tea is my Summer drink when creating so I better start getting some in
Regarding the split collars being used as engine mounts...
A tip of the hat to cannonball2 who first suggested it to me for the Elgin Velocipede. He had already tried and proven the concept so all credit to him. cb2 is a wealth of mechanical know-how and innovation which he is willing to share with others.
So many here know so much... msrfan has influenced my "kindalikeawhizzer" from the start, and you Annie and Steve and Curt and Tinsmith (and the list goes on)... where would an old guy like me be without all of you? What a great community this forum is. Looking forward to another year of camaraderie.
SB
A tip of the hat to cannonball2 who first suggested it to me for the Elgin Velocipede. He had already tried and proven the concept so all credit to him. cb2 is a wealth of mechanical know-how and innovation which he is willing to share with others.
So many here know so much... msrfan has influenced my "kindalikeawhizzer" from the start, and you Annie and Steve and Curt and Tinsmith (and the list goes on)... where would an old guy like me be without all of you? What a great community this forum is. Looking forward to another year of camaraderie.
SB
Since I have a couple of questions which require photos in order to ask I thought I'd go ahead with a bit of show and tell first.
Below are two photos showing the old tri-car seat sitting in the proposed Sociable canoe body. Too big for two of them. A better option might be a couple of boat seats offset in tandem.Even then it would be a tight arrangement.
Three photos show the exhaust pipe with end fittings and the removable muffler. Pretty simple and easy.
Coming up are engine pictures with questions to go with.
SB
Below are two photos showing the old tri-car seat sitting in the proposed Sociable canoe body. Too big for two of them. A better option might be a couple of boat seats offset in tandem.Even then it would be a tight arrangement.
Three photos show the exhaust pipe with end fittings and the removable muffler. Pretty simple and easy.
Coming up are engine pictures with questions to go with.
SB
Attachments
First 2 photos ask the question "what is this"? Is it part of a governor control and can I just get rid of it since it did connect to the stock carburetor which I'm not using. I'll go another route with a Mikuni motorcycle type of carb.
2nd pair of photos show the head opened up. There's some carbon gunk which could stand some cleaning up. Any tips on doing so? Left to my own devices I would probably use paper towels and gasoline. Maybe something else is better.
More engine photos coming up.
SB
2nd pair of photos show the head opened up. There's some carbon gunk which could stand some cleaning up. Any tips on doing so? Left to my own devices I would probably use paper towels and gasoline. Maybe something else is better.
More engine photos coming up.
SB
Attachments
I'm attempting to show where I figure to place the compression valve. This is just next to the spark plug and to the rear of the engine. The last photo has a locknut marking the spot. Looking from underneath it appears to be a flat spot which means I would not have to shave down a flat, but just drill the hole and taps threads. Does this look okay or is there a better spot? Thanks beforehand.
SB
SB
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racie, You're right! What was I thinking? It looks like the only viable spot is to the opposite side of the spark plug. I'll take a couple of photos and show you.
SB
SB
Thanks so much for catching that! How about here? It isn't flat so would require a little dressing there from underneath.
SB
SB
Attachments
I found some one leaving a pressurized spray can of Permatex gasket remover by the trash. The can was full I took it. I used it also on the carbon build up. Since I was not removing but the valves at the time, I made sure to stuff cloth in the cylinder with the piston down, to keep it from getting on the cylinder walls.
This older variety stuff sprays a foam that continues to bubble a reddish yellow color stuff. I expect it is probably quite caustic, like some de-greasers, brake fluid, and the like. It is best to wear gloves and eye protection.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ermatex-gasket-remover-low-voc-formula-detail
The above link is I guess the equivalent stuff that is low VOC and better for the atmosphere.
MT
This older variety stuff sprays a foam that continues to bubble a reddish yellow color stuff. I expect it is probably quite caustic, like some de-greasers, brake fluid, and the like. It is best to wear gloves and eye protection.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ermatex-gasket-remover-low-voc-formula-detail
The above link is I guess the equivalent stuff that is low VOC and better for the atmosphere.
MT
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