Is there a proper way to adjust the float in the (toilet) carb bowl?

Pablo

Pablo

Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor
Continuing my saga……..(from the realm of electrics to fuel)…………

Is there a proper way to adjust the float in the (toilet) carb bowl? Easy way?

Right now I have Norm's chalk board warning! (Yeah I know :) ) A factory setting that didn't work. Heavy fingers and needle nose pliers.

To Recap:

1) Factory setting, suspect float too low - not enough fuel ready to go. Open slide via twist throttle - too much air, not enough fuel on immediate demand. Not a matter of too rich or too lean.

2) Open carb up, tweak float "arms" apart. (see Norm's drawing). Problem gets worse.

3) Open carb up, tweak float arms together. Get Exxon Valdez of premix fuel in the garage.

4) Open carb up, tweak float arms apart problem still there, but better.

So today, this afternoon: Just bring the arms together a hair……it's a fine line and I need some input……..

Paco and his faithful black dog Chancho thank you immensely.
 
you are way past anything I have done but good luck. I know you are one tenacious guy. I have nothing but admiration for you.
 
It's all in good fun. Gets a little irratating taking the carb off and taking ultimate care of the bowl gasket....but still fun getting my butt kicked by this sucker! :D
 
Well, you are on the right track thinking of it like a toilet bowl.
How about trying this:Take carb off, take it apart, hook up fuel line ,hold carb level and bend float until fuel level comes up to gasket level or a touch under.
 
toytime said:
Well, you are on the right track thinking of it like a toilet bowl.
How about trying this:Take carb off, take it apart, hook up fuel line ,hold carb level and bend float until fuel level comes up to gasket level or a touch under.
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Kinda what I tried when I did the spill....but it's a great way to see that the float valve is working. It's a bit difficult to eyeball. Maybe I should have a clear bowl fabbed rotfl
 
Don't you have a buddy who has one of these engines? Borrow his carb and try it to see if the problem goes away. You could send me your carb and I'll give it a go make it work on mine then send it back to you. heck box it all up and I'll get it to run or shoot it and put it out of its misery.
Norman
 
OK so I came home and adjusted the float, just ever so slightly UP (float higher, arms together) - wholly crap it runs MUCH better I mean I was revving the caca out of it - then after it's fully warm choke all the way off still running good, getting warmer and hit the throttle hard boooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooogggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg AND dies.

POINT = I'm getting somewhere! Just ate, need to have my cheesecake then take the carb off again....
 
Almost forgot when it died it back fired and and nice explosion up the intake manifold...blew smoke out the carb.....
 
Pablo did you say your mag wasnt tight on the woodruff key?? That could sure cause a timing issue and it sure sounds like you got a timing issue................
 
After I got it all cleaned up and back together it seemed tight enough. Why would a timing issue come and go.......unless the CDI is playing tricks???
 
I go with the carb loading up on you. When you throttle up, the gas pours into the bowl... Hits the cylinder way too rich and chokes. Backfire into the carb would be reasonable. I'm beginning to wonder if Norman was right and the needle seat isn't too big.

When you go full throttle the needle withdraws max and allows the most gas in the cylinder what if there is too much gas going through.

Since you have it better now where is your needle clip at the moment? You might could raise the clip now and cut down on the gas flow at max throttle.
 
But why would:

a) it only run half way decent with choke?

b) it get better as I adjust the bowl float up?

c) get worse as engine warms up?

Clip is one down from top - standard factory setting. Making it leaner or richer by moving clip doesn't do much really. Actually gets worse if I go leaner....
 
Ah but you havent done that since you adjusted the float.

1.... if you sit in your drive and let the engine warm up... does it change sounds as you move the choke off. Mine speeds up. ie revs faster as the choke is opened.

2.are you absolutely sure the choke is opening when you push the lever down. Mine will choke out if I forget and leave it on .... (I know this might sound insulting but I would never forgive myself it i didnt say it) up is choked down is choke open.... (Yes I know I sound like a jerk)

Im going to do a google search for engine backfire causes. brb
 
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If the mag is tight thats probably not it then. Just that firing back through the carb. Somethings screwy. I guess you are probably already aware of that fact though...............:D
 
This is what we are all thinking here as well "Common causes of back fires in the intake manifold are bad spark timing, or incorrect (usually lean) fuel ratio."

Your only timing is the magnito so If you rule that out, it has to be the carb... The cdi shouldn't cause it to backfire.

According to that you should be making the mixture richer not leaner. richer would be moving the clip down Right???
 
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deacon said:
Ah but you havent done that since you adjusted the float.

1.... if you sit in your drive and let the engine warm up... does it change sounds as you move the choke off. Mine speeds up. ie revs faster as the choke is opened.

2.are you absolutely sure the choke is opening when you push the lever down. Mine will choke out if I forget and leave it on .... (I know this might sound insulting but I would never forgive myself it i didnt say it) up is choked down is choke open.... (Yes I know I sound like a jerk)

Im going to do a google search for engine backfire causes. brb
Click to expand...

True - maybe try leaning it out now.

1) Yes my RPM's go up when I choke off in the driveway.

2) Yes I'm sure my choke hole is opening when I push the lever down.

I have noted before the sparkie plug is wet when it dies after I throttle it....

So it's weird....some indicators say lean (needing choke all the time) others say rich....

If the choke is 100% on and I gas it, not much happens......
 
Mine chokes down if I gas it with the choke on.

Okay if you can rev it with the choke on after the bike warms up, then you must have an air leak.

If you rev it and it chokes off when warm and if acts like the choke is on ie chokes down..
, maybe it isn't getting any air through the breather.
 
nothing makes sense.....Since you have tried everything else, try it with the air filter out of the breather.
 
deacon said:
Mine chokes down if I gas it with the choke on.

Okay if you can rev it with the choke on after the bike warms up, then you must have an air leak.

If you rev it and it chokes off when warm and if acts like the choke is on ie chokes down..
, maybe it isn't getting any air through the breather.
Click to expand...

Let me back the train up......my engine won't run with full choke when hot, so I was referring to giving it throttle when cold with full choke on.

The only way I can rev it is with partial choke....so this MAY mean it has an air leak (but where??) OR the engine is running lean! (see?)

Breather flows well.
 
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