How to run bearings in this set up?

What is wrong the bearing race being seated on that shoulder? What is the difference between the two diameters? As long as you have enough threaded fork tube to mount the fork into the head tube, should be fine. Your best bet is to consult with someone using that fork.
Tom
 
Tom from Rubicon said:
What is wrong the bearing race being seated on that shoulder? What is the difference between the two diameters? As long as you have enough threaded fork tube to mount the fork into the head tube, should be fine. Your best bet is to consult with someone using that fork.
Tom
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the issue is that the thread comes up short. I tried consulting the guy using the same frame and fork as me, but he hasn't been on in a while.
 
Cut the existing one slip a smaller tube in, do rosette welds is the best and all you need. I have done a few, and works, just spread them apart till the threads are up were you need it, smaller tube in center will not heart a thing, bearings are on each end, just make sure it is snug fit. Can even use a 7/8" shaft inside for alignment...........Curt
 
curtisfox said:
Cut the existing one slip a smaller tube in, do rosette welds is the best and all you need. I have done a few, and works, just spread them apart till the threads are up were you need it, smaller tube in center will not heart a thing, bearings are on each end, just make sure it is snug fit. Can even use a 7/8" shaft inside for alignment...........Curt
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sounds good. I'll give it a try tomorrow.
 
RocketJ said:
The engine is a 212 predstor. The gearbox is not part of the engine as shown above. The pedal shaft is completely smooth as opposed to a lip that usually is found in regular bike frames to accomidate the pedal crank and bearings.
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I am constantly checking the tightness of the left side of the pedal lock nut if you could call it! The thing is left hand threaded and should
not loosen up but it does. This setup is also on a 212cc and the D&*&^&(* thing is only used for show as a pedal bike. Try pedaling a bike
with a 212cc and a CVT and see how far you get! I have pedaled that bike about 1/4 mile and you would have to break the chain on the
CVT to pedal any further. I would finish it off with foot pegs but the law might get some of the attention. A chain and pedals is no attention
grabber so I haven't had any problems just watch out for your acceleration on a 212cc since it's so very obvious it's not legal. A 212cc on a
bike if properly setup is a guided missile and I doubt if most of the Hondas and Kawasakis could keep up with it in a 100 yards. You have
to ride the handlebars to keep the front wheels from lifting over if it hooks up! You would be lucky if the engine didn't break something on
the bike the engine is made for TORQUE and it will break things! All I can say, respect it and it will treat you good.
 
RocketJ said:
Welp, I tripped at the finish line. The bike is nearly done, but I hit one last snag. The front axle on the drum brake is about an inch too short and I can't find any extended axles for a sturmey archer xl-fd. Any ideas?
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Yes! Get a long 10mm axle and 10mm spacers. You can remove sturmey axle and insert the 10mm . I think you may have to drill out a spacer in the hub to 10mm not to sure been a long time.
 
Here is some more on this it was years ago!
 

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One final obstacle to overcome. Sidecars! I'm having a bit of trouble designing a system that will work with this trailer. I want to keep it tubular and removable if possible. Any ideas?
 

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I have the same trailer and it's great for towing. As a sidecar pretty simple 'cause it's so light. If you don't want the brackets permanently attached to the frame (I wouldn't) you can use the Harley 2 piece tube clamps and they offer way more strength than that little side car and a 500 lb. load requires. since the advertised carry weight is 99 lbs. for that trailer you are good to go! I use them for motor mounts on my 14 hp. Harley and my 12 hp Simplex and they are rock solid And once torqued they can't twist I'd say one or two on the down tube and the same on the seat tube. This if the car runs mid frame but side car theory and practice typically calls for the car to run much closer to the rear of the bike and a rear axle mount (removable) could be fabricated for that more proper orientation I would not use the seat or chain stays for attaching a frame support. If they are smaller than 7/8" in diameter. The Harley clamps are available in black or chrome and in various sizes with 1" most common, & 7/8" the smallest I've found. One and a quarter is usually available too. Costs about &12. each on Ebay and worth a lot more.

One more thing the clamps won't compress the tube or cause damage to the frame, with the exception of paint. So you can mount or dismount the car and leave the clamps on the bike or remove the clamps with the car you've got choices.

Your bike is looking great!

Rick C.
 
indian22 said:
I have the same trailer and it's great for towing. As a sidecar pretty simple 'cause it's so light. If you don't want the brackets permanently attached to the frame (I wouldn't) you can use the Harley 2 piece tube clamps and they offer way more strength than that little side car and a 500 lb. load requires. since the advertised carry weight is 99 lbs. for that trailer you are good to go! I use them for motor mounts on my 14 hp. Harley and my 12 hp Simplex and they are rock solid And once torqued they can't twist I'd say one or two on the down tube and the same on the seat tube. This if the car runs mid frame but side car theory and practice typically calls for the car to run much closer to the rear of the bike and a rear axle mount (removable) could be fabricated for that more proper orientation I would not use the seat or chain stays for attaching a frame support. If they are smaller than 7/8" in diameter. The Harley clamps are available in black or chrome and in various sizes with 1" most common, & 7/8" the smallest I've found. One and a quarter is usually available too. Costs about &12. each on Ebay and worth a lot more.

One more thing the clamps won't compress the tube or cause damage to the frame, with the exception of paint. So you can mount or dismount the car and leave the clamps on the bike or remove the clamps with the car you've got choices.

Your bike is looking great!

Rick C.
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Thanks Rick. I should've thought about that in the first place. I use the same harley clamps for my foot boards and they work great. I also found a new hardware store near me that sells bearings and heim joints if I ever want to make it tilt. I'll order some clamps this afternoon.
 
One more issue. I got the front drum on, but the axle length is still bothering me. It's just a bit too tight more my liking. I Don't know if there's any way to remove the axle from the xl-fn brake to replace with a longer one. If not my other idea is to go back to the leaf spring fork idea. I just would need to figure out how to hold the spring to the fork.
 
I would be quite surprised if a longer axle isn't available. Several builds of leaf forks on the forum myself included. They are a bit fiddley to construct properly but certainly can be done. Most builders seem to shy away from these forks and manufacturers want $1,000. minimum money for leaf spring forks, primarily intended for full size motorcycles.

Rick C.
 
indian22 said:
I would be quite surprised if a longer axle isn't available. Several builds of leaf forks on the forum myself included. They are a bit fiddley to construct properly but certainly can be done. Most builders seem to shy away from these forks and manufacturers want $1,000. minimum money for leaf spring forks, primarily intended for full size motorcycles.

Rick C.
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I messaged Sturmey about a longer axle, but no response. I'm up to do a leaf spring build. I have the skills, I just need to know the best way to secure the spring. My fork has this weird 3 layer metal bracing.
 
Ok Rocket I took a look at your fork & it's a nice looking girder too I'd add. The triple plate is a nice vintage looking vintage setup but I'd not quite trust it to solely secure a leaf fork rather I'd use it to stabilize the leaf pack from moving left a right, keep it straight, not too much pressure placed on the plates for this purpose.

The main support should be the fork steerer tube. I used this on my heavy Simplex design bike & used the 3/8" thick plate for a square leaf pack bolt to help plus stop any left to right twist of the pack. It's overkill but as I stated the bike is pretty heavy at about 175lbs.

My fork is a 1" steer tube & I machined a steel plug about two inches long which I center drilled and tapped for a 9/16" NC grade 8 bolt. The exact length of the steel plug required should be as long as possible and still be able to insert the handle bar stem to a safe depth or use a Star nut on a non- threaded application. Your forks appear to be threaded so stem depth is the issue. I had just enough room for a 2" and get a stem to a secure depth.

The steer tube has a weld at the bottom plate which retains the plug from pulling through. I machined my plug in a lathe to a slip fit. I left the threaded end of the plug at the slight angle that is so typical of the large cut off wheels. This was purposefully done to prevent the plug from turning in the tube during bolt tightening. This is a super strong connection.

Now back to the 3 plates. I think the design you have can be used to prevent the leaf pack from swiveling by simply welding two small plates on the bottom of the lower plate forming a channel for the top fork to rest between. That leaf secured insure any other leaves just stay put as well.

I used three leaves and drilling that 9/16" really justifies the use of a good floor drill press and carbide then it's easy peasy. I used the light utility spring, they are sold as singles, and cut in half on a chop saw. Don't let the big weight rating effect your purchase. I bought the 750 or 800 lb. rated & cut off to about 10" and only used the longest three leaves & shortened each to suit my preference. I only weigh about a buck seventy and I get nice flex and smooth ride with my setup.

I used antique cast rockers but Monarch rockers are readily available at low price and it's a really good looking set of rockers. Rockers are easy enough to make too.

Just a few thoughts from a guy that's ridden his particular version of a leaf spring moto for a half dozen years going on with no issues.

Rick C.
 
indian22 said:
Ok Rocket I took a look at your fork & it's a nice looking girder too I'd add. The triple plate is a nice vintage looking vintage setup but I'd not quite trust it to solely secure a leaf fork rather I'd use it to stabilize the leaf pack from moving left a right, keep it straight, not too much pressure placed on the plates for this purpose.

The main support should be the fork steerer tube. I used this on my heavy Simplex design bike & used the 3/8" thick plate for a square leaf pack bolt to help plus stop any left to right twist of the pack. It's overkill but as I stated the bike is pretty heavy at about 175lbs.

My fork is a 1" steer tube & I machined a steel plug about two inches long which I center drilled and tapped for a 9/16" NC grade 8 bolt. The exact length of the steel plug required should be as long as possible and still be able to insert the handle bar stem to a safe depth or use a Star nut on a non- threaded application. Your forks appear to be threaded so stem depth is the issue. I had just enough room for a 2" and get a stem to a secure depth.

The steer tube has a weld at the bottom plate which retains the plug from pulling through. I machined my plug in a lathe to a slip fit. I left the threaded end of the plug at the slight angle that is so typical of the large cut off wheels. This was purposefully done to prevent the plug from turning in the tube during bolt tightening. This is a super strong connection.

Now back to the 3 plates. I think the design you have can be used to prevent the leaf pack from swiveling by simply welding two small plates on the bottom of the lower plate forming a channel for the top fork to rest between. That leaf secured insure any other leaves just stay put as well.

I used three leaves and drilling that 9/16" really justifies the use of a good floor drill press and carbide then it's easy peasy. I used the light utility spring, they are sold as singles, and cut in half on a chop saw. Don't let the big weight rating effect your purchase. I bought the 750 or 800 lb. rated & cut off to about 10" and only used the longest three leaves & shortened each to suit my preference. I only weigh about a buck seventy and I get nice flex and smooth ride with my setup.

I used antique cast rockers but Monarch rockers are readily available at low price and it's a really good looking set of rockers. Rockers are easy enough to make too.

Just a few thoughts from a guy that's ridden his particular version of a leaf spring moto for a half dozen years going on with no issues.

Rick C.
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Hey Rick. Thanks for the advice. I have a cut stack of springs to choose from and was just thinking about rockers from a monarch as well. I'd have to think about the work needed to plug and thread my stem though. Not too sure how well I could get that done with the tools I have.
 
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