How to run bearings in this set up?

Don't worry about rewards Rocket, the priority is get you rolling. MT must have missed the per side .055" shim needed.
.Classic Schlitz beer can cut and pounded. Classic MacGyver. :)
Problem with aluminum is it has no spring back on compression. The more it is compressed the more it flows to relieve compression
Lets start with dimensions.
Precisely. Do you have, or have access to precision measuring tools? If you lived in Wisconsin I could finalize what I needed to make the bushing and a clamp.
Tom
I don't at the moment, but I might have access to them later this week. I'm going to check a few more necessities off the list this week and I'lll leave the seat issue for last most likely. When I get that sorted I'll send you the dimensions. I really appreciate all of the advice and help.
 
Hey rocket, I'm building with the same frame currently. You can search on my thread for some ideas. I used a flanged seat post bushing and I will advise that you sand the seat post to bare steel before driving it home as the chromium layer is pretty heavy on the post I used. The seat post spacer can be found From any common online goods supplier, just measure with a micrometer before ordering. I used a split pipe collar for the clamp, won't ever break and looks okay. Onward.
 
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Hey rocket, I'm building with the same frame currently. You can search on my thread for some ideas. I used a flanged seat post bushing and I will advise that you sand the seat post to bare steel before driving it home as the chromium layer is pretty heavy on the post I used. The seat post spacer can be found From any common online goods supplier, just measure with a micrometer before ordering. I used a split pipe collar for the clamp, won't ever break and looks okay. Onward.
Thanks for the tip. I'll check into that. What size sleeve did you buy? Your bike looks great. It's funny how similar our builds are. I have the same engine, frame, clutch, fork, piping and drum brake lol.
 
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I decided to give the foot boards a go this morning. My welding isn't exactly a stack of dimes, but I'm pretty proud of how they came out. I'll probably round out the corners a bit for safety reasons.
 

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Here are the dimensions written on the piece. I mentioned sanding because it's a very tight fit. My seatpost is now pretty much permanent but once I started tapping it in with a hammer from that point there was only one way to go.
 

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Gearbox update: I gave the final drive a good few turns. Good news: It seems to work pretty well! Bad news: It appears that the shaft I made for the gearbox is a degree or two off center and causes the gearbox to gyrate slightly. At low speeds (like when I turn it by hand) it doesn't seem like an issue, but I'm concerned what would happen at full speed. I need to do a final teardown anyway to make adjustments so I'll fix the issue later this week.
 
The shim finally came for the seat. It was a snug fit, but it all came together perfectly. This picture reminded me of all of the cyclists i see in the neighborhood. It cracked me up a little. I also got the gearbox nice and snug now. I should be able to test soon.
 

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Apology accepted my friend. Thirst I have not, recently a beer store had a clearance sale on seasonals. Three bucks a six pack and and I got twelve of them. Being retired for now, six packs at a third of retail are welcome.
Glad to hear the seat post/clamp conundrum is solved Rocket. Your build is looking good. Keep us posted.
Tom
 
Alright guys, I need some serious help here. For some reason, whoever made my fork left this weird leftover hump at the bottom, almost like they cut the end off another fork and welded it on. No standard size bearing cups fit. What should I do? I considered cutting it off and welding a longer stem into it or using bushings. Any advice is appreciated.
 

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