How to run bearings in this set up?

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RocketJ

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P clamps and 3 piece clamps https://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-Piece-Clamps-161140/dp/B0068G08OS for mounting. Of course to your frame size. On the fork..mine was done by installing a shaft with a threaded bottom into the bottom of the fork. Then a pin through both and welded. Then drill a hole size of the shaft in leaf spring. Now it can be bolted to fork. Also a piece was welded to keep leaf from moving side to side. Rods are go cart axles and Heim joints.
Thanks for the tip. That helps a lot. Where did you acquire your fork rockers?
 

MotoMagz

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My Buddy Curtisfox had made them for me a few years back. I know you can get Monark rockers and other vintage bicycle rockers on Fleabay.
 

RocketJ

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My Buddy Curtisfox had made them for me a few years back. I know you can get Monark rockers and other vintage bicycle rockers on Fleabay.
Curt does great work. I think he has retired from fabrication mostly otherwise I'd commission him. I'll check out monark rockers at some point. Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it.
 

RocketJ

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My Buddy Curtisfox had made them for me a few years back. I know you can get Monark rockers and other vintage bicycle rockers on Fleabay.

I feel like a complete idiot. I understand mounting the p clamps to the loop to mouth floor boards, but I can't for the life of me think of how to hang foot boards off of it.
 

RocketJ

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Nevermind. I think I finally found a proper example of what I'm aiming for. Now I just need to find a supplier or a fabricator to make the bars to hang the boards off of.
 

5-7HEAVEN

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I feel like a complete idiot. I understand mounting the p clamps to the loop to mouth floor boards, but I can't for the life of me think of how to hang foot boards off of it.
 

RocketJ

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Thanks for the link Haven, but how would I mount them off a frame with a single tube? Most motorcycles have 2 tubes on the bottom to easily mount the pegs. I also can't wrap my head around how to secure the gearbox properly to the frame.
 
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5-7HEAVEN

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You could clamp one over the other, on the single tube.

However, the stance might be too narrow.

Now I realize why some riders weld on a long bar for foot pegs.
 

RocketJ

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You could clamp one over the other, on the single tube.

However, the stance might be too narrow.

Now I realize why some riders weld on a long bar for foot pegs.
That just feels ugly to me. I don't like welding on a random bar like some of these "master bike builders" do or just clamping on over the other. It just feels ...off
 
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RocketJ

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I finally got the gearbox mounted. I will make it a bit more proper looking. The only issue now is that the chain doesn't exact like up between the sprocket and gearbox. My plan is to use a tensioner (a proper one) to guide the chain. What do you think?
 

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5-7HEAVEN

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I finally got the gearbox mounted. I will make it a bit more proper looking. The only issue now is that the chain doesn't exact like up between the sprocket and gearbox. My plan is to use a tensioner (a proper one) to guide the chain. What do you think?
Maybe you should go back to the drawing board.

Your preset setup seems to stick out both sides.

My suggestion would be to align gearbox and rear wheel sprocket first,
then jackshaft to the engine clutch.
 

RocketJ

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Maybe you should go back to the drawing board.

Your preset setup seems to stick out both sides.

My suggestion would be to align gearbox and rear wheel sprocket first,
then jackshaft to the engine clutch.
The only way to align the gearbox to the rear sprocket would be to use a shaft extender. I'll see what I can come up with tomorrow.
 

5-7HEAVEN

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That's a tough one, especially if you keep the theme of the board track racer.

I see 2 options, which don't involve the use of the gearbox.

One is to remove the gearbox and use the bottom bracket as a jack shaft.

Use 12t clutch and 44t chainring on the left side.

On the right side, use 24t chainring and 44t rear sprocket-right side.

Gearing would be 8:1.
Good enough without gearbox or torque converter.

Option 2 is how Sportsman Flyer does it:

12t clutch to 24t chainring IDLER SPROCKET.

Then 14t chainring IDLER SPROCKET to 48t rear sprocket-left side.

If using option 2 and idler sprockets, you can install foot pedals.

Gearing would also be 6.86:1.
Good enough without gearbox or torque converter.
 
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RocketJ

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That's a tough one, especially if you keep the theme of the board track racer.

I see 2 options, which don't involve the use of the gearbox.

One is to remove the gearbox and use the bottom bracket as a jack shaft.

Use 12t clutch and 44t chainring on the left side.

On the right side, use 24t chainring and 44t rear sprocket-right side.

Gearing would be 8:1.
Good enough without gearbox or torque converter.

Option 2 is how Sportsman Flyer does it:

12t clutch to 24t chainring IDLER SPROCKET.

Then 14t chainring IDLER SPROCKET to 48t rear sprocket-left side.

If using option 2 and idler sprockets, you can install foot pedals.

Gearing would also be 6.86:1.
Good enough without gearbox or torque converter.
Hmm, neither option sounds that great. I'm aiming for more of a cruiser than a btr. I was really hoping to avoid using pedals. I don't know if you can see it, but there's also a sprocket adapter on the left side. The engine mount came with a jack shaft mount as well. Maybe I can run a jack shaft from the gearbox shaft to the sprocket on the left side somehow. I'll see if it fits when I get a chance tomorrow.
 
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indian22

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I hope you get this all sorted to your satisfaction & that it eventually works wonderfully Rocket.

The go cart transmission adds a sizable complication to your build both mechanically and visually that would be hard for me to justify even if successful. However it's your project & no one else's so again I wish you great success!

Rick C.
 

5-7HEAVEN

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I agree with Rick.

Your transmission is unique and purposeful.

I hope you get this to work well.

I’m also involved in a nerve racking 212 project similar to yours:

how to run power thru the bottom bracket, but keep the pedals functional.

It is painfully satisfying.
 
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