High Performance Wally World Cruiser?

its the way I was brought up if you have something that someone really needs then you offer it if you have some knowledge about something you offer your skill and these bikes are a very good thing to share ALL of our knowledge to each other!!! there are things im not very smart about but I have a very good understanding of 2 strokers and I know how to pep them up and ive found a lot of sights on the internet that offer VERY GOOD advice then theres always someone that doesn't really know that much and confuse a lot of ppl always check the info you get with a few other ppls ideas some times putting two or three different ideas together will make the whole thing more clear as to what will work the best. research research research the best way to learn
 
Absolutely! If anybody needs help with anything as long as they are willing to listen to what I have to say I'll help! And when it comes to parts I try not to charge anymore than I have in it and I have a lot of just free built up parts. Starting to clear house though getting a little disorganized.
 
Got rid of the choke and polished up the inside of the carb manifold. Also cleared out the carb valve and drilled it out for a straight flow. Cleaned up the carb as well. Cleaned it off with some carb cleaner as well. Needed that for sure.
lyW4RPV.jpg

1iTqplT.jpg

aIls389.jpg


Realistically don't expect any performance gains, but theoretically it should "flow" better. I plan on making a velocity stack, just don't have the tools at my apartment to do so and this was the first step.
 
if tan light brown not rich how many miles on motor? if not many this could just be rings not broke in yet
 
I agree with DRBS, if that is your plug color you aint rich, could be a tad on the lean side actually depending on what oil and mix you're using, but for sure not to rich with a tan plug color.
 
I'm using opti 2 80:1 ratio. Motor should be almost broken but realistically has maybe fifty miles on it. I've just never had a surge or miss like that on the top end before. I'm going to try to fatten it up just a hair see how that works then if it bogs more then I'll lean it out a hair. I've got like three jets from old carbs and builds so why not I guess...
 
YesImLDS said:
I'm using opti 2 80:1 ratio. Motor should be almost broken but realistically has maybe fifty miles on it. I've just never had a surge or miss like that on the top end before. I'm going to try to fatten it up just a hair see how that works then if it bogs more then I'll lean it out a hair. I've got like three jets from old carbs and builds so why not I guess...
Click to expand...

Yeah fatten it up a bit and see what happens, you wont need to probably go up but one jet size, that plug doesnt look bad but is lighter than I run mine, I like it to be browner than that, but gasoline blend in your area can aslo have an affect on plug color also from what I heard some other say in the past.

Since you run full bore high speeds a lot like me, Id want that engine a bit on the rich side rather than a bit on the lean side.

Ive need had a miss from a rich condition with an engine other than a little 2 stroking, but Ive seen a miss and cutting out from engines being on the lean side in the higher rpms, and if all else is good Im gonna say there's a good chance that being a bit lean is the missing you experiencing, being just a tad rich, adds a bit more lubrication and helps keep the engine temps down some, a bit lean is a killer with small air cooled engines.
 
Well I jetted it one size bigger and got down the road and ran it pretty hard.... straight out of gas a mile from home... lesson learned lol.
 
yes for GOD sake don't run these motors lean you will be buying a cylinder or piston really fast the lean condition will get the motor really hot and burn it up and try to stay around 32:1 on your mix I see all these guys post that there running 50:1 ect why risk wasting a motor sure there cheap but once you get a good motor why risk getting a bad one later???? there are way to many bad motors I see a few every week its sad that they don't have better quality control in china but hey if they paid better they just might have better items LOL theres a rumor going around that there is a factory opening up here in Michigan where there going to start building the motors here lets see if that happens the only thing is there still going to be using the china parts
 
DRBS said:
yes for GOD sake don't run these motors lean you will be buying a cylinder or piston really fast the lean condition will get the motor really hot and burn it up and try to stay around 32:1 on your mix I see all these guys post that there running 50:1 ect why risk wasting a motor sure there cheap but once you get a good motor why risk getting a bad one later???? there are way to many bad motors I see a few every week its sad that they don't have better quality control in china but hey if they paid better they just might have better items LOL theres a rumor going around that there is a factory opening up here in Michigan where there going to start building the motors here lets see if that happens the only thing is there still going to be using the china parts
Click to expand...

80:1 with Opti-2 full syntethic seems to be quite a thick mixture. People run opti-2 at 100:1 with no problems.
 
that makes no sense to me. why risk it. the manufacture says 32:1 if your car called for 5w 20 would you put 20w50 or 50w 80?????
 
Last edited:
ok I have a question I see that there putting the cdi inside the mag case now are we still going to be able to retard the ign timing???????
 
There is a difference between dyno oil and full synthetic and blends. Synthetic lubricates better this less is needed. 100:1 is what opti 2 recommends in all engines it's used in.
 
Also I jetted it and took it on a ride and it seems to have improved. The clutch slips slightly now though so it'll need tightened up. Butt dyno says it's smoother with more power, but that could be nectar I'm taking the new clutch slip issue into my mind. Slipped a little before slips a lot now
 
DRBS said:
that makes no sense to me. why risk it. the manufacture says 32:1 if your car called for 5w 20 would you put 20w50 or 50w 80?????
Click to expand...

When the Russians designed the motor in the last century, 30:1 mix was with 30wt oil . That's standard crank case oil.............
Things have changed a bit in the last 60 years.
Opti 2 at 100:1 is the equivalent to a standard oil mixed at around 35-40:1 .
I run AMS oil at 50:1 ,but only because I can't buy OPTI 2 in my town......
So in effect your not risking the motor , your adding extra protection by running good oil.........
 
Last edited:
I use amsoil competition oil and its red so I tell ppl that it runs on blood sweat and tears LOL but yes the oil has changed but also it says synthetic oil and 93 octane gas you think that they are using old oil standards????? I don't think so but I wont argue with anyone if you want to run your motor your way that's up to you I tell anyone that buys mine that they use 16:1 for three tanks then 32:1 there after and use premium gas I my self run turbo blue and it runs great on it
 
DRBS said:
I use amsoil competition oil and its red so I tell ppl that it runs on blood sweat and tears LOL but yes the oil has changed but also it says synthetic oil and 93 octane gas you think that they are using old oil standards????? I don't think so but I wont argue with anyone if you want to run your motor your way that's up to you I tell anyone that buys mine that they use 16:1 for three tanks then 32:1 there after and use premium gas I my self run turbo blue and it runs great on it
Click to expand...

The manufacturers recommend 20:1 for break in which is absolutely bloody thick. Oil would end up everywhere. Even with cheaper dyno oil I say start out at 32:1 and just stay there. If you have a better oil then go to 50:1. If you are running full synthetic I wouldn't flinch saying 100:1 if that's what it says on the bottle!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top