High Performance Wally World Cruiser?

[YesImLDS]

It's more a temporary fix than anything. The bolt tightens down and threads in fine just when under torqued pressure the threads slipped. I haven't torqued anything down, but if it works I want to see if I can just get the bike tuned out while I get some spare change for the parts necessary to properly fix it. I won't be going far from home like this for sure. When I torque down the head nuts all I need this to do is keep the stud from spinning as it'll stay in place under okay pressure just not full torque. Otherwise I completely agree with you guys.

 

[YesImLDS]

I don't think it works what so ever anyways so I'll just be saving for a helicoil and assorted other bits and pieces I'll need for that as well

 

[mapbike]

I don't think it works what so ever anyways so I'll just be saving for a helicoil and assorted other bits and pieces I'll need for that as well

Good idea, You'll most like find heli coil type kit easier in M8x1.25 rather than the M8x1.00.

so even if you have one odd ball stud that has the coarser thread it wont matter, personally I dont care much for the M8x1.00 but it seems all the GT5 type engines have it, I even have a couple engine that have combo cylinder studs, M8x1.00 on engine case and up top for head nuts they're M8x1.25, never 7 dersyood the purpose of that one....lol!

Wish you the best and hope you get it all sorted out soon.

 

[YesImLDS]

I think what I'll do is. Take the bottom end case of my other engine and do a case swap. I wanted to do a couple things to the bottom end of my running motor anyways then when I get the tools I can fix the other one. Seems like the best plan at the moment because I wanted to get in there anyways

 

[DRBS]

just finished a 29" huffy build for a guy. what I cant figure out is why do all the bikes that ppl bring they all have the tensioner on the down tube instead of the horizontal bar???? and they almost all attach the sprocket with the "dished" side in

 

[YesImLDS]

I don't know chain tensioner has been now removed from my build

 

[DRBS]

I like the ones that have teeth instead of that plastic roller I have seen some without but I would not recommend not using one im trying the spring loaded one now im trying to build one that uses a spring on the sprocket instead of an arm that has a pivot point sort of like a timing chain tensioner on a car

 

[YesImLDS]

Anybody got any ideas on how to get this sucker out? I can't get it by hand and even tried holding the sprocket with a pair of pliers with a big screw driver that had some vice grips attached to it that I was sitting on to apply the pressure to try and spin the dang thing.

 

[DRBS]

use a hammer and screwdriver put the screwdriver in the slot and hit the end of screwdriver a few times it should make the screw come out easier try it a few times it usually works for me taking the screws out of the covers

 

[YesImLDS]

I held the sprocket with the pair of pliers between my legs and took a screwdriver and a rubber mallet and hit it a couple times to get it to start spinning out. Completely disassembled now! Wonder how I would get the rod off the crank to experiment with a couple other things! Probably machine pressed on.

 

[YesImLDS]

Now I just need to figure out a way to get out the bearings. Haven't really tried as I don't want to make much noise smacking things in my apartment. Don't wanna upset the neighbors.

 

[fatdaddy]

If ya split the cases and remove the bearings be sure you have new ones to replace them. I've seen some ya gotta beat up pretty good to get out. AND YEAH, yer neighbors might not like all the noise, TAKE IT OUTSIDE.
fatdaddy.

 

[YesImLDS]

If ya split the cases and remove the bearings be sure you have new ones to replace them. I've seen some ya gotta beat up pretty good to get out. AND YEAH, yer neighbors might not like all the noise, TAKE IT OUTSIDE.
fatdaddy.

Haha yeah, I might just re-use the bearings already in the case, just defeats the purpose of a dax bottom end. Going to have to see about transferring over those bearings between the cases.

 

[fatdaddy]

I dont think ya got what I was trying to say. Sometimes their in so tight ya gotta kinda F em up to get em out. If ya gotta order bearings try to get Japanese, NOT chinese bearings.
fatdaddy.

 

[YesImLDS]

I dont think ya got what I was trying to say. Sometimes their in so tight ya gotta kinda F em up to get em out. If ya gotta order bearings try to get Japanese, NOT chinese bearings.
fatdaddy.

Of course I understand what ya mean. I might figure up a press type deal with a c clamp and a couple pieces of wood. to press them out of there place.

 

[mapbike]

Just wanted to add a little tid bit here concerning the bearings, Arrow and Fred Chelminski both use the Chinese bearings even in the really high power high revving engines they build and both say the quality is as excellent, Im gonna say if those two guys fell confident with them in the engines they build no reason for the rest of us to be to concerned.

I do use better wrist pin bearings in mine but have never had an issues with the chinese main bearings or clutch shaft bearings.

Now, as fatdaddy mentioned, if you end up having to beat the heck out on the bearings to get them out, I would replace them, not worth taking the risk.

 

[DRBS]

ok a question????? what is the big difference in the cases that are out there???? I see gx and gt and ect what is the difference in them I know a lot of people are confused as am I and ive been building these bikes for 5 years I have only two sellers that I buy motor kits from and have never had a problem well cept for mag coils being bad

 

[DRBS]

I found this to be a greater than normal motor kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/38108268204...49&var=650396237471&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT if anyone interested. I have tried just about all the kits out there. I have sold 60+ bikes and I have not had a problem with these there from Canada and the motors are very good the last one I put on didn't shake very much sitting on a two leg kickstand

 

[mapbike]

ok a question????? what is the big difference in the cases that are out there???? I see gx and gt and ect what is the difference in them I know a lot of people are confused as am I and ive been building these bikes for 5 years I have only two sellers that I buy motor kits from and have never had a problem well cept for mag coils being bad

Seems most of the newer engines I been seeing are using the same case design as far as how the transfer ramps are concerned, the PK80 40mm stroke, GT5 long Rod 38mm stroke and the Short rod 38mm stroke-aka-"Half Breed".

I have two older engines that have different transfer ramps than what we see with most all the engines we get now, but the main difference is finding a vendor that is consistent with a particular geometry, Some list 47mm bore X 40mm Stroke and then when you get the engine you fing it is a 38mm stroke Half Breed or the more common GT5 type with a 114mm rod and 38mm stroke crank, some show engine with straight plugs heads which are usually the 40mm stroke engines, but then you end up with a slant head 38mm stroke engine.

The link you shared above shows some pics with the engines being straight plug head and in same add the engine then has the slant head... so which do these have?

For some this doesn't matter but to those of us who are looking for a particular type engine it does and it really ticks me off when I get something different from what the adds picture shows, the one Half Breed I have was listed as a PK80 geometry engine, waited for a while to get it out of Hong Kong and it wasn't what it was advertised and Ive never been happy with how the heavy crank vibrator perfoms and its the one I'm running 25:1 regular 40wt non detergent oil in instead of 2 stroke oil, I dont really care if it craps out or not to be honest, but it runs like a scalded ape on the 40wt junk oil in the mix and is showing no signs of trouble.....LOL piece of junk may outlast all my other "better" engines...


But to wrap this up here, I dont think we're seeing much if any variation in the case lately, just never know what crank, rod length or piston type you're gonna get from a lot of the sellers of these kits, so far I'm not to fond of the 38mm stroke engines compared to my better running older dax GenIV 40mm stroke engines, they have better torque even when built for higher RPM power and they're a little better balanced which helps a lot.

I'm not gonna hate on the GT5 type dax is selling now though, I have two of them in my stack of stuff, I just haven't got one together yet, but I'm planning to asap so I can give an honest review on what I experience with them compared to the older GenIV engines he had before.

 

[DRBS]

thank you for that insite. I have not seen too much in the speed department or the vibration the only thing I have found is the size of the front mount one is a standard 1.25 and the other are either 2.0 are 2.25