High Performance Wally World Cruiser?

boxcar said:
In theory at .75" diameter the stinger should be roughly 9"
The Snake pipe itself was designed for something other than a CG to begin with.
Soooooooo. Experimentation is the only answer. As science won't help much....
The base #'s of the pipe are all wrong for the engine.
I'm working on a down pipe design as we speak for one of my bikes . The tow vehicle.
Once built I will test sed pipe , Then post the drawings.
It may be a total waist of time. Who knows ?
It will be a mid range pipe that peaks at 7500 rpm.
Would't be to hard to redesign it for 10'000.
I'll keep you posted.
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Sounds good to me.

I know I'm all ears....

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Well I just re-attached the muffler after cutting it completely and when I was re-riveting I noticed that the exhaust was actually pretty lose. I must have had a decent exhaust leak, but I wasn't finding any oil residue. Must be because the fuel and oil mixture was leaned out and Opti-2 oil was used. Guess I can't find oil leaks anymore that way. So my top speed problems could had been from not all the exhaust actually reaching the fatty pipe. Anyways I had just some bolts holding in the exhaust because of the chunk of weld that is interfering when mounting with studs. I just put the studs back on and just torque down a crap bolt on top of that chunk of weld. Doesn't look pretty, but it'll hold the exhaust where it needs to be and tight enough to seal. Hopefully I didn't screw my exhaust gasket with that leak.
 
Ok I lied I just took it out, but didn't really get to go wide open because it was cold. Mostly wanted to hear the exhaust and it sounds exactly like a dirt bike now. Not terribly loud, but definitely louder! Had a little bit more mid range, but I only got up to around 40 before I said screw that!
 
I think the problem with me getting top speed is actually trying to do it. I don't know the area well enough because I haven't ridden much up here to know where is a good and safe place to completely open up if ya know what I mean
 
If you don't mind( I forgot where you said what forks are on your Cranbrook) What forks are those? I have an Olympia(same as a cranbrook) and want the MT bike forks like yours. Are they bolt on? or mods required?

I'll be using some of your tricks on my build...I like the look of your bike.
 
Eric2.0 said:
If you don't mind( I forgot where you said what forks are on your Cranbrook) What forks are those? I have an Olympia(same as a cranbrook) and want the MT bike forks like yours. Are they bolt on? or mods required?

I'll be using some of your tricks on my build...I like the look of your bike.
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It's a suntour fork. It's 1" threaded fork with disc brake mount and suspension. I can't remember the name of it specifically, but I bought it new from a guy who didn't use it on ebay. It did need threaded and cut to fit, which at a bike shop was like thirty bucks then it's bolt on. Absolutely loving it so far.
 
Installed the HD lightning CDI just to try it out. Haven't been able to get outside to test it due to snow. Actually couldn't get it to spark by hand. I am assuming everything is wired right and I'll have to test it out to see what I got going for me. I have an OLD cdi that has been used on every build so far so I guess we will see what this NEW one will do for me. Also put my red blinking light on for people to be able to see me ha. Forgot I even had it.
 
Just took the bike up and down the block to make sure the HD lightning CDI worked and sure enough it does. Didn't notice anything different from my .5mile ride, but I didn't do anything special so yeah guess I'll see.

First off got rid of that god awful sticker on it and just tried to blend it into the bike the best I could.
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Just thought I would make a mod list of everything that has been to the bike thus far

69.5cc PK80 motor

Mods so far to powertrain

1.Piston ramped, lightened, and skirts cut. Weighs 65g
2.Jug ported, cleaned transfer ports, and sanded down
3.Clutch plate lightened
4.Fred head 6cc w/ thin head gasket
5.Custom fatty pipe exhaust
6.Manic mechanic CNC intake
7.NT speed carb
8.HD lightning CDI
9.32T Sprocket
10.NGK BPR8HIX Spark Plug

Mods so far to bike
Hayes 160mm front disc brake
Suntour fork 1" threaded
Kenda 838 1.95" tires
Six bolt front wheel w/ quick release
Shortened seat post
Mountain bike handle bars
Wally world wireless speedometer

Mods planned for the future
GT5 Dax motor build up
 
Found a gas leak after that test ride. I am glad I found it. It was just dripping every so often, but with it being winter and all it would had just leaked out all over my cardboard then to my carpet and stank up the place. So naturally I grabbed the JB weld.

Made a little patch out of some paper from the JB weld packaging and a couple washers then topped off with a nut.
5aWnYwQ.jpg


Came out perfect, but then I realized I did the wrong stud and had to make more and way over did it the second time... Figures...
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I guess I'd rather have it goopy on the leaking stud. Just need to invest in a better gas tank somewhere down the line.
 
just dont overtighten the nuts, put some rubber or double sided tape under tank and then just tighten nuts enough that it will stay in place, biggest reason for the fIlures at the stud are from being to tight and then vibrasion finally takes a toll on them.

this is my opinion from whT I have perso ally experienced.
 
Yeah it's just been on and off so many times and not properly tightened I think I just slight pulled them out this last time. On both sides I had a leak I found out a a little bit ago. I'll use some rubber this time when I mount it on.
 
even a bead of silicone down the top bar and snug it down and let it sit overnight might be a good fix, silicone wont show or hurt a thing since it can be just peeled off if need be later.
 
Dewd, In frame tank is the way to go! You have the gap for it, why not slap a tank in there?

Of course the obvious fix would be to switch to a less liquid reliant motor @_@
 
Semaj said:
Dewd, In frame tank is the way to go! You have the gap for it, why not slap a tank in there?
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Where would you get a tank to fit in there?

Guess a foam mock up and fiberglass mold would be a start... Pound some tin into the mold and tig the seams?

I was thinking taking a tank from a large weed eater, put it in that Cranbrook gap and then make shrouds over the tank to hide it....paint shrouds frame color.

Just an idea and easier than fabbing a custom tank.
 
http://custommotoredbicycles.com/wo...teel_in_frame_gas_tanks_alloy_gas_tank_frames

^^Scroll down a bit on this site, I realize its not the same bike but theres one example, just to show its doable, Then you have people on this very site:

scotto- said:
A few tanks I've made....











I've done some tanks using the top tube of the bike frame as well......anything but a peanut tank thank you!
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This is from Scotto from another post about in frame tanks :
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=54458
 
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mapbike said:
even a bead of silicone down the top bar and snug it down and let it sit overnight might be a good fix, silicone wont show or hurt a thing since it can be just peeled off if need be later.
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I took some rubber hose left over from an oil catch can install and just cut it lengthwise through the tubing and laid it on the from and a couple pieces under the clamps too.

Semaj said:
Dewd, In frame tank is the way to go! You have the gap for it, why not slap a tank in there?

Of course the obvious fix would be to switch to a less liquid reliant motor @_@
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Too expensive for a new custom tank! Haha and I knew the electric side of you would show real quick!
 
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