First build in progress!

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by RocknRoadPirate22, Sep 1, 2010.

  1. silverbear

    silverbear The Boy Who Never Grew Up

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    I smiled as I read your post, remembering my own first flights and the very first time the engine caught and coughed to life..."it's alive"!!!! Yes, I know the feeling for sure. Congratulations, especially knowing it will only get better as you tweak this and that. I was just thinking of the Wright brothers and what those first couple of hops into the air must have been like... knowing that for however brief it might have been "we're flying!!!" Dreams come true; those of kids with playing cards against their spokes and those of grown men wanting to fly.
    SB
     
  2. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    That happens to me all the time on this site. I type out a detailed, long winded reply and it logs me out.
    When I expect that to happen I open up another browser window, log back into the site, go back to my original post in the first browser window and click on the Submit Reply button. Works every time!
     
  3. RocknRoadPirate22

    RocknRoadPirate22 New Member

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    Ok, let's see...

    About the black finish... So far so good. (probably only gone about 12 miles) I think they used like 3 different kinds of paint. The case and covers have one kind, the cylinder had maybe more high temp matte kind of finish, and the head was totally painted on both sides with more of a gloss.

    The muffler has a couple spots where it's starting to bake a little, but that could be Fromm the fuel leak dripping on it. ( drained the tank tonight, and refit the fuel valve with gasket sealer )

    I'm a little bit annoyed that my new speedometer is apparently metric, eventhough it says MPH on it. Not that I don't like the metric system, Im just not a big fan of kilometer
     
  4. RocknRoadPirate22

    RocknRoadPirate22 New Member

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    I had a bunch of problems with (of course) the cheap kill switch. It worked when it wasn't supposed to, and vice versa. I rode around without one for a bit, but. It was such a pain to choke out the engine or stall it out.

    So, I got a simple on-off toggle switch and mounted it on the seatpost with a hoseclamp for now. But it still only kindof works. I think I'm going to rewire it so that the white wire is capped ( will go to lights in the future) and the killswitch connects to the blue. That way when it's close, all the power is rerouted away from the plug, instead of having the CDI fight with the ground. Does that make sense? Any input? Also, couldn't you connect the white wire to the blue CDI lead? Wouldn't that give it more power to build up a spark?

    I think I cut my old bike chain too short when I shortened it. But there was a new one on the way, so it was ok. The 415 chan was way to loose, so I tool off the pedal chain and moved the wheel back till it was snug. The new bike chain I got was a SRAM and I don't recommend it. I'd go with a KMC next time. The SRAM is narrow and and more flexable. And it comes with a 'snaplock' which is like a master link without the clip. (I used my old master) the pedal chain is still too loose, which is very problematic when running only coaster brakes ( highly NOT recommended ). I slipped the chain and had to pull a flintstones stop.

    I don't have a special magc 13mm cone wrench to tighten the the locknut on the rear axle... Sometimes during really hard breaking it'll slip. The pedals push around forward and then I have side to side play on the wheel. I have to loosen, readjust, and retighten everything. Pain in the ass. I want to get a HD rear wheel. I think it's from spookytooth, with the built in sprocket and band brakes. Looks awesome.

    So, anyway... I'm not even halfway through the first gallon...

    More mods tomorrow. And photos. And maybe some videos. ( I mounted my camera to the bike. )
     
  5. RocknRoadPirate22

    RocknRoadPirate22 New Member

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    I forgot to mention the half link I need for the pedal chain. $3 locally. Sweet.

    According to my metric conversion calculations, I cruise comfortably at around 15-20mph and top out at about 26. ( that would be ME topping out, not the machine )

    So far so good.
     
  6. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    If you connect the white wire to the blue wire the CDI box will receive an incorrect signal from the mag and not function correctly.
    The band brake on the heavy duty rear wheel has a reputation of being barely better than "flintstones" brakes. A coaster brake seems to work better.

    Your LBS should be able to sell you proper cone wrenches, unless they are snooty and insist on never letting a customer do there own work.
     
  7. RocknRoadPirate22

    RocknRoadPirate22 New Member

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    Ahh... Right. Thank you. (re: CDI)

    I guess that's why I don't ever see bikes with band brakes?
     
  8. KCvale

    KCvale Well-Known Member

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    Nice looking 1st build so far.
    You like that 'get low and sleek' setup I see. I am more 'sit straight up' kinda guy but you build to how to you want to ride, which is part of the beauty of building your own bike.

    Just a couple of things that may help.

    Brakes:
    You can get a pair of side-pull brakes with cables and levers for under $20 on-line, heck even less at Wally World. They have one mounting point, right where your fenders mount and have their own bolt to hold both the brake and fender on.

    Pop a SickBikes dual pull lever on the right side and instant self-adjusting brakes with one lever, then just use the coaster brake as a back-up.

    Pop of the typically 18 tooth sprocket from the pedal side hub and put on a 19 or 20 and magically your coaster brake works great and your bike gets much easier to start.
    *Note that with the lowering gearing you will need t mess with the pedal chain again, and when pedaling only it won't go as fast, but it will still get you there.

    As for the coaster brake arm, it doesn't have to fasten to the lower chain stay, they quite happy attached to the upper frame bar and don't need some massive bracket to keep them from rotating, just any 'ole metal strap, bolt and nut will do it.

    Chain Matching:
    I find it best to try to get the drive chain sized with the wheel as far forward as practical with a new chain and of course no tensioner.
    Once you get your initial sprocket and chain wear out of the way you can just move the wheel back to tighten it back up.

    That in mind, leave a little slack in the pedal chain. It will not wear or need adjusting near as much.
    If you need a little tensioner no problem on the pedal side no biggie.
    Without having to reply on the coaster brake you may not even need one at all.

    Black Motors:
    Every bike I have built has had a black Grubee SKyhawk.
    No issues with any of them, not even heat, and I am in the desert (it was 109F today).

    Hope those help.
     
  9. RocknRoadPirate22

    RocknRoadPirate22 New Member

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    My rims are rounded and have no braking surface.

    My 415 is nice and tight, but I need a halflink for the pedal chain. [ thinking more about it, I've never been a fan of half links, and the larger pedal sprocket may be the way to go...]

    The paint on the muffler is coming off a little. It's not very heavy duty.

    I soldered up the kill switch to the blue wires. Works awesome.
    I no longer have a fuel leak. Put In a new main jet, drilled he balls out of th aircleaner. I'll get a new one soon.

    I was modding my muffler but now I have a bad exhauset leak, I'm kinda bummed out about it. Not a big deal though.

    I'm out of town till monday or Tuesday, so I can't work on it or ride it till then, and the exhauset leak is gonna bother me the whole time.
     
    #29 RocknRoadPirate22, Sep 19, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2010
  10. RedB66

    RedB66 New Member

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    "So, I moved the wheel forward and bolted the brake arm on like it's supposed to be.
    I am worried about the chain rubbing on the brake arm bolt".

    Turn the bolt around.....
     
  11. KCvale

    KCvale Well-Known Member

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    Ahh, I looked at your pics again, thats a bummer. Front disc is about your only option.
    Careful not to go too tight, there needs some play in it or your toast your motor bearing.
     
  12. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    Depends really, if budget is a concern it'd prolly be far cheaper to replace the frnt wheel and get rim brakes as you'd hafta get an adapter for the forks (or weld, or replace them) & a different hub, as well as a disk, caliper & associated hardware...

    Drum brakes are a viable option as well, tho for the time & money (drum & relace) might as well go disk for the better stopping power *shrug*
     
  13. RocknRoadPirate22

    RocknRoadPirate22 New Member

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    Yea... Ideally, I'd have springer forks with the disc adapter. I like the schwinn style more than the monarch style...

    So, I'm just running coasters for now. And footbrakes when the pedal chain comes off. YABBA-DABBA-DOOO!!!

    I solved my exhaust problem, in theory, in my head.

    Theory and practice rarely converge as they should, so we'll see how that goes...

    Now all I need is more money!
     

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