Danschutz
New Member
Now your talking my language!
Im still at my shop but later this evening I will look into all this stuff. Thanks. Dan.
Dax Balanced lower...?
- Thread starter mapbike
- Start date
Now your talking my language!
Im still at my shop but later this evening I will look into all this stuff. Thanks. Dan.
Scott.D.Lang
Member
just got my dax balanced motor running on my Schwinn "olblue" my first impressions of this one and my last one are different but I believe that is because of the piston port and the 40t sprocket instead of 44t sprocket. this motor is a lot smother then other non balanced motors I've road but not as smooth as the last balanced I had. I believe this comes from the weight I took from the piston with the piston port for the reeds. but all that said I believe Ill be very satisfied with this motor as it breaks in.
Risingsunn
Member
Will all y'all stop buyin' Dax out of these things! Save some for us who want to to get our FIRST ones! Sheesh! 
I wasn't planning on investing anymore into my motorbike for a while but with all this talk on good these things are I may just have to get myself one. That is if they ever come back into stock!
I wasn't planning on investing anymore into my motorbike for a while but with all this talk on good these things are I may just have to get myself one. That is if they ever come back into stock!
Scott.D.Lang
Member
my first was a dax and I went as far as borrowing money to get this one. I want to be able to ride for a while and loved the first one I got.
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Thanks Map!
Question.
Before I put this thing together is there a piston upgrade out there for this motor? I see Fred has a PK80 piston, not sure if that will fit the F80 though.
One last thing.....My order should be here tomorrow, along with a foot of snow!!! so no riding for a while
Dan.
As for as I know the Fred modified piston is the best thing out there right now, and yes it will work just fine in the Dax F80, that is what he calls his engines, but they are the same as the PK-80 engines internally as for as parts exchange goes, the Dax engines do have higher quality bearings and better crankshafts than some of the other PK-80 engines.
Just be sure if you get one of Freds pistons that it is fro the PK-80 and not the one for the Grubee SkyChicken, wrist pin height is different and will not work in a PK-80.
Map
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Will all y'all stop buyin' Dax out of these things! Save some for us who want to to get our FIRST ones! Sheesh!
I wasn't planning on investing anymore into my motorbike for a while but with all this talk on good these things are I may just have to get myself one. That is if they ever come back into stock!
Sorry R.sunn
I'll bet he has some more ready before to long, I thought to myself that I should have kept quite until I had me about three or four of them....LOL! I got my one and loved it and started singing like a canary on here and then next thing I knew he was out before I had a chance to order my next one, hang in there Duane will have some more soon I bet, I know I'll be glad to get my other one up and going, gonna pull an old Red Bat 66cc off my first build and swap it out for the Dax Gen IV, the old engine has 2000+ miles on it and still runs like a top but it has always had major vibes at anything past 28mph and the Dax I have now cruise at 40+mph with very low and comfortable vibes.
just keep watching for a restock buddy.....
Map
Huffydavidson
STREETRACER/MANUFACTURER
This last batch was a bad business joke because he ONLY ORDER 40 and two days they were persold.
And it will be 8-10 before the cranks get here AND THEN HE STILL HAS BUILD THEM.
The bottomends are assembled in DAX shop. I know for a fact.
And for the record there is no such thing as an unbalanced motor Scott , just poorly balanced & poorly
trued Crankshafts. And then there's the hasty assembly .
And it will be 8-10 before the cranks get here AND THEN HE STILL HAS BUILD THEM.
The bottomends are assembled in DAX shop. I know for a fact.
And for the record there is no such thing as an unbalanced motor Scott , just poorly balanced & poorly
trued Crankshafts. And then there's the hasty assembly .
Huffydavidson
STREETRACER/MANUFACTURER
DAX won't sell just the crank. I tried that number 6 month ago. And I asked Fred the same last month and he said he doesn't sellum like that BECAUSE they have to be SHIMED. Which is true . I bought a PK from pirateCycles two years ago and it hadn't been SHIMED at the factory. Out of the box mind you I pulled off the covers to check things out and I could pull&push the crank in&out a good 1/8" .I ran it about 300/400 miles and sold it as it picked up a ever so slight rod noise . So I got 3/4 of money out of it .
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Dang-it that stinks....... we're getting our first little mild cool snap down here today, it gets down around the 60's people around here will be weari g Jackets...lol! We've been having milder weather in the low to mod 90's and now they're saying 43 for tonight, thats gonna feel mighty cold to us here.My motor is sitting in the locked mailbox across the street from my shop....the employees can't find the mail key lol. Oh well I'm dealing with 12-14 inches of snow and 4 downed trees in my backyardso even ogling the darned thing is off the menu for now.
Dan.
Hope you have your Gen IV dax before you soon so you can daydream about what the little girl will be when you get done with it.
Map
Danschutz
New Member
Dang-it that stinks....... we're getting our first little mild cool snap down here today, it gets down around the 60's people around here will be weari g Jackets...lol! We've been having milder weather in the low to mod 90's and now they're saying 43 for tonight, thats gonna feel mighty cold to us here.
Hope you have your Gen IV dax before you soon so you can daydream about what the little girl will be when you get done with it.
Map
Its all in what your acclimated to that's for sure. Storm killed 3 trees in my backyard, part of the neighbors tree fell on my roof over the garage and that same tree hit my wifes accord denting the A-pillar pretty bad, might be totaled. Ive hauled off many pick up beds full of branches thus far and I probably have 6 truckloads left in the backyard. It really looked like a huge explosion hit the town and just tore down all the deciduous trees.
So, in brighter and funner news.................my motor is no longer hostage to a lost key! I took it over to my buddy/mentors house tonight and he wasn't super impressed with all the porting we are going to have to do. Honestly the cylinder is pretty bad but I guess its a crap shoot. The lower needs a heck of a lot of work, but I didn't pay the man to give me a nice case, I paid him for the balanced crankshaft. I will learn plenty about porting that is a fact lol.
I either didn't get the high compression head I ordered or he didn't send me the standard head that comes with the upper kit. Heres a pic of the head.
Pic of the Cylinder, black sharpy marks the area to be ported, of course the intake, exhaust etc will be done also.
And the lower. Much work to be done.
Now with all that said my buddy Brian asked if I would inquire if the lower should be ported where marked. He did this to his Stinger motor but he isn't sure if its worth the increase in power.
Also Im unsure if I want to go with a reed intake or one of Freds pistons and intake set ups (the one that acts like a reed intake)
As always I SO appreciate the input, you guys are invaluable to a newbie like myself.
Dan.
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Dan, Port the jug like this on the transfer ports, as you can see I even tapered down to the edge of the cylinder, I didn't thin it down more than 1/4"-3/8" from edge down into transfer port, dont want to get that part to thin to deep.
Reach down carefully with a carbide deburring cone shaped and round shaped tip in a dremel tool and remove the ridges in the bottom of the transfer ports, link below are where I buy my deburring bits cheap.....!
http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BCP24.html
http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BDG10.html
http://www.widgetsupply.com/category/dremel-carbide-bud.html
Clean up the intake port getting all the burrs out and you can widen it very slightly if you want for a bit better flow, but dont grind it out on top or bottom much.
On the exhaust port I widened it just a little and polished it up really good.
I started to break my dax GenIV lower down and do the porting on the case which would be fine to do, but honestly my engine is running very strong, on the flat with no head wind I did a top speed test with my Dad right behind me on his motorcycle and can maintain 47-48MPH and that is with a 36T sprocket, a NT carb and a stock CDI, Puch hi hi 70cc head, RPMs are over 8000 and it will pull me up the hills around here and still maintain 40-42MPH on them if I hit the bottom with a full head of steam and I'm not bucking a head wind.
I would go with the Fred Piston, I did mine myself and it was just a guessing game, and I did no particular measuring to get anything exact, the grinding I did matches the width of the transfer ports and the exhaust port but I dont have a measurement of how much material I removed and what angle I used, it was just an eye balling it job I did and it turned out just fine, I can tell I dont have a real good lower speed pull, but after 18-20mph it takes off real nice.
Hope this helps ya out some.
Map
Reach down carefully with a carbide deburring cone shaped and round shaped tip in a dremel tool and remove the ridges in the bottom of the transfer ports, link below are where I buy my deburring bits cheap.....!
http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BCP24.html
http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BDG10.html
http://www.widgetsupply.com/category/dremel-carbide-bud.html
Clean up the intake port getting all the burrs out and you can widen it very slightly if you want for a bit better flow, but dont grind it out on top or bottom much.
On the exhaust port I widened it just a little and polished it up really good.
I started to break my dax GenIV lower down and do the porting on the case which would be fine to do, but honestly my engine is running very strong, on the flat with no head wind I did a top speed test with my Dad right behind me on his motorcycle and can maintain 47-48MPH and that is with a 36T sprocket, a NT carb and a stock CDI, Puch hi hi 70cc head, RPMs are over 8000 and it will pull me up the hills around here and still maintain 40-42MPH on them if I hit the bottom with a full head of steam and I'm not bucking a head wind.
I would go with the Fred Piston, I did mine myself and it was just a guessing game, and I did no particular measuring to get anything exact, the grinding I did matches the width of the transfer ports and the exhaust port but I dont have a measurement of how much material I removed and what angle I used, it was just an eye balling it job I did and it turned out just fine, I can tell I dont have a real good lower speed pull, but after 18-20mph it takes off real nice.
Hope this helps ya out some.
Map
Scott.D.Lang
Member
[/QUOTE]
I either didn't get the high compression head I ordered or he didn't send me the standard head that comes with the upper kit. Heres a pic of the head.
[/QUOTE]
That is the standard head
[/QUOTE]
Pic of the Cylinder, black sharpy marks the area to be ported, of course the intake, exhaust etc will be done also.
[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
I would not port that jug quite the way you have it marked if you are going to do the port on the transfers I wound not change where the port enters but I might take out starting at the cylinder that hump to redirect the fuel flow away from exhaust port. I hope that makes sense I did not port my transfers because my dremmal is junk. All that said though make sure you don't change your port timing on the transfers, exhaust, or intake unless you know exactly what you are doing. you can widen all the prots a little. if you decide reeds and have the money just contact Arrow and get there big block jug kit.
if not then if you decide to port pick the reeds by your type of driveing stop and go city driving mostly get the reeds from JNM. if top speed is what you are looking for get the arrow reeds. all this advice with if in front is just MHO.
last thing if you are going to reed it you have to decide either you want to piston port, jug port ( 3 rd transfer port), or both.
if going Nonreeded then make 100% for sure you get your ports and gaskets to match as close you can.
[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
[/URL]
And the lower. Much work to be done.
[/QUOTE]
Not as much work as you might think just make sure ( if you are going to take the time to port the case ) to make the base match the jug as close as you can as I said before gasket match as close as you can the smooth flow is what will give you your power.
just simply before you do any porting research porting 2 strokes a lot.
take your time be carefull and have fun.
I either didn't get the high compression head I ordered or he didn't send me the standard head that comes with the upper kit. Heres a pic of the head.
[/QUOTE]
That is the standard head
[/QUOTE]
Pic of the Cylinder, black sharpy marks the area to be ported, of course the intake, exhaust etc will be done also.
[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
I would not port that jug quite the way you have it marked if you are going to do the port on the transfers I wound not change where the port enters but I might take out starting at the cylinder that hump to redirect the fuel flow away from exhaust port. I hope that makes sense I did not port my transfers because my dremmal is junk. All that said though make sure you don't change your port timing on the transfers, exhaust, or intake unless you know exactly what you are doing. you can widen all the prots a little. if you decide reeds and have the money just contact Arrow and get there big block jug kit.
if not then if you decide to port pick the reeds by your type of driveing stop and go city driving mostly get the reeds from JNM. if top speed is what you are looking for get the arrow reeds. all this advice with if in front is just MHO.
last thing if you are going to reed it you have to decide either you want to piston port, jug port ( 3 rd transfer port), or both.
if going Nonreeded then make 100% for sure you get your ports and gaskets to match as close you can.
[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
And the lower. Much work to be done.
[/QUOTE]
Not as much work as you might think just make sure ( if you are going to take the time to port the case ) to make the base match the jug as close as you can as I said before gasket match as close as you can the smooth flow is what will give you your power.
just simply before you do any porting research porting 2 strokes a lot.
take your time be carefull and have fun.
Danschutz
New Member
Map, you'll be getting a Christmas card from me this year!!!!
Yes it helps a ton. There will be polishing to do but Brian has a, what he refers to "a Porting Machine" Guess Ill see it this weekend lol.
Any thoughts on this intake? Should I just move on with a more standard billet intake? Please remember Im at over 5100 foot elevation so I lose a lot of power up here lol.
Here's what Fred says about these.
This is the new, improved version of our special intake plenum manifold for the 49cc, 66cc GT-2, GT-5 or 70cc PK-80 motorized bicycle engine utilizing 32mm intake stud spacing. This intake will NOT fit the GT-5A or GT-5SR "super rat" cylinder bodies which have a 40mm intake stud spacing.
This unique two-piece manifold allows you to easily port match the plenum base to the cylinder body with a hand rotary file (die grinder). This special design has several advantages: When properly ported, it has excellent, unrestricted flow characteristics. Far superior to a boost bottle, the plenum chamber minimizes unproductive pressure pulsations induced into the intake tract from the downward movement of the piston. The result is excellent low engine speed performance. The short manifold gives ample room to fit the rest of the intake system. No gaskets are used with this manifold. Instead, use an anaerobic sealant for sealing both parts. Avoid using silicone based sealants, as they will deteriorate in the presence of fuel. Outer covers available with 19mm, 23mm, and 24mm diameter spigots for clamp style carburetors
Dan.
Yes it helps a ton. There will be polishing to do but Brian has a, what he refers to "a Porting Machine" Guess Ill see it this weekend lol.
Any thoughts on this intake? Should I just move on with a more standard billet intake? Please remember Im at over 5100 foot elevation so I lose a lot of power up here lol.
Here's what Fred says about these.
This is the new, improved version of our special intake plenum manifold for the 49cc, 66cc GT-2, GT-5 or 70cc PK-80 motorized bicycle engine utilizing 32mm intake stud spacing. This intake will NOT fit the GT-5A or GT-5SR "super rat" cylinder bodies which have a 40mm intake stud spacing.
This unique two-piece manifold allows you to easily port match the plenum base to the cylinder body with a hand rotary file (die grinder). This special design has several advantages: When properly ported, it has excellent, unrestricted flow characteristics. Far superior to a boost bottle, the plenum chamber minimizes unproductive pressure pulsations induced into the intake tract from the downward movement of the piston. The result is excellent low engine speed performance. The short manifold gives ample room to fit the rest of the intake system. No gaskets are used with this manifold. Instead, use an anaerobic sealant for sealing both parts. Avoid using silicone based sealants, as they will deteriorate in the presence of fuel. Outer covers available with 19mm, 23mm, and 24mm diameter spigots for clamp style carburetors
Dan.
mapbike
Well-Known Member
As far as the head goes, the head you have listed in the pic is just a standard low compression straight plug head, I have one of the Dax higher compression heads that I ran on the engine initially, it ran good on it but the compression isnt much different than it is with a regular slant plug head, and running the high RPMs I am with my engine it was getting so hot that my spark plug was turning a light blue color on the steel base just below the porcelain, and my sprak plug was reading good medium brown color, now with the Puch hi hi 70cc head my plug reading is still good and the spark plug stays nice and shinny silver now, no more overheating issues, the Dax head is good for a milder run engine but I run the snot outta mine at high speeds for long distances and I need the extra cooling that I get with the Puch Head.
below I have included a pic of the combustion chamber of the Dax HP slany head that I have.
Last pic is of the combustion chamber in the Puch heads, this pic is of a 50cc head which I have on one bike and the 70cc head has the same chamber with a wider squish band that doesnt requirethat you use two head gasket like on the 50cc head.
Map
below I have included a pic of the combustion chamber of the Dax HP slany head that I have.
Last pic is of the combustion chamber in the Puch heads, this pic is of a 50cc head which I have on one bike and the 70cc head has the same chamber with a wider squish band that doesnt requirethat you use two head gasket like on the 50cc head.
Map
Attachments
Scott.D.Lang
Member
map that is some nice looking work over all. glad you are having better luck then me at this min my 2nd balanced is acting up lol but Im going to take the carb and reeds off and maybe tear down the top tomorrow. I started losing power today. I think its the gasket I made for the reeds to jug. But I can say this from my rides I do have to peddle more then I did on my huffy need to go up to a 44t and it was not hitting the top end Im use to out of a dax motor when it hit top it felt like it wanted to keep going but would not rev more with both stock and LIGHTING CDI ran about the same ececpt my LIGHTING is smother at a lower rpm. Ill get it furged out and when I do this bike should be a monster if I want to go that fast lol.
Scott.D.Lang
Member
Dan from what Ive seen and have heard, anything fred makes or sells is worth the price and does exactly what he sez it does
Danschutz
New Member
Well I guess he forgot to send me the other head lol. Is this head the one I need to buy? Good price?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PUCH-MAXI-M...Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bc6b1a69&vxp=mtr
I might be able to get the 50cc for cheaper but I like the idea of one head gasket!
Dan.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PUCH-MAXI-M...Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bc6b1a69&vxp=mtr
I might be able to get the 50cc for cheaper but I like the idea of one head gasket!
Dan.
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Dan, I think it may be a good idea to go with the Fred two-piece manifold intake set up, I have thought about getting one for mine also to hlp with better low end power.
And one thing I forgot to mention is that when porting the transfer entries I port matched the ports to the gasket, and as I said I left the porst in the case alone, I know the flow would be a bit better if I had worked them out larger to match the transfers, but I have a very strong running fast engine without doing the case porting so I'm very happy with how mine turned out.
Back atcha on the card Dan....LOL!
Map
And one thing I forgot to mention is that when porting the transfer entries I port matched the ports to the gasket, and as I said I left the porst in the case alone, I know the flow would be a bit better if I had worked them out larger to match the transfers, but I have a very strong running fast engine without doing the case porting so I'm very happy with how mine turned out.
Back atcha on the card Dan....LOL!
Map