Dax Balanced lower...?
- Thread starter mapbike
- Start date
I've had my Gen IV dax over 9000 and it gets smoother the higher it goes.
My tach fried so not sure what Im getting out of it with the RT carb and different exhaust now
Map
Over 9000 u mad bro?!? Lol. Niice time to go look for the speed calumanator. Oh and thanks guys 
My tach showed eiher 9200 or 9400 at a time when my dad road besode me on his motorcycle, the road was slightly at a decline and he was beside me with his speedometer setting on 48mph and then it dropped to 45mph on the flat with no head wind, and 42mph into a slight head wind on the way back from a 15 mile round trip.Over 9000 u mad bro?!? Lol. Niice time to go look for the speed calumanator. Oh and thanks guys
My jug is heavily ported and my piston is gound for timing advance, well tuned carb and I was running a straight very free flowing exhaust, I've since gone to a big X2 expansion chamber and lost 5-6 mph off my top speed but gained big low to midrange boost with the pipe..
Its a fact that until I getting a solid gps reading I wont know 100% what my actual speeds are but according to what Im seeing for mtiple drive beside vehicle test im only getting a top speed of 40mph now, I think the header pipe I built for my exhaust is to restrictive and that is where Im loosing at least some of or maybe all my top speed that was 45-46mph instead of the 40mph Im getting now with a 36T sprocket.
Map
Last edited:
what size is your header pipe map? if you have the exhaust I think you do Id guess you would need at least a 1" pipe if not bigger. with a 4 stroke you can go to big but with one of our modded 2 strokes with a nice x pipe it would be hard to go to big. I believe but could be wrong
3/4" I'd is where its at and now and the inside of the pipe I used was a bit rough so aim pretty sure that where my rpm loss is, just pulls up to certain point and acts like 4 stroke when the valves float....... it just peaks and goes flat before it gets into the higher rpms it was tuning before, im gonna pull the pipe and stick the pipe I was running before back on it and see what I get, only things I changed was the pipe and I put the larger RT carb on which should have helped the flow, the performance of the Rat carb is excellent but it seems my mistake was the 7/8" OD handle bar tupe as my header pipe, just to small to flow at the higher rpms my engine is capable of.
Map
you are running a fatty x pipe right? if so Id say the header needs to be 1" or more to get the most out of it and as close to the exhaust port as you can get it less then 12" from what Ive read but not sure on that. Ill be learning a lot more myself come income tax time because Im going to buy me a welder and experiment with exhaust on different builds.
Map, my motor is doing the same thing it seems. Using a 41T sprocket I can rocket (well ok, not rocket) up to 25 mph real fast, hits 28 quick and then I cant tell if its 4 stroking or starving up to 32mph. Again remember Im at 5200ft elevation. I did hit a high of EDIT 33.8mph the other evening.
This little setup is going to be my back-up/wifes ride so it isn't super important for it to be fast, but yeah I still want to squeeze what I can out of it lol.
BTW your roller is running great, looking good!!!
Oh and last I checked Fred has his type A piston available on Ebay.
Dan.
This little setup is going to be my back-up/wifes ride so it isn't super important for it to be fast, but yeah I still want to squeeze what I can out of it lol.
BTW your roller is running great, looking good!!!
Oh and last I checked Fred has his type A piston available on Ebay.
Dan.
Last edited:
Got mine today, put it together then on the bike and can't wait. What jet size should I break it in on? I plan on using us2 rebranded opti 2 cause its available at my local Meijer. At 70:1. I have daxs rt carb and arrows torquer 2 exaust. Pics later prossibly.if I can figure out how to post. Now just waiting on my rims and kings sprocket and top hat adapter
start with what you have in it and just keep a eye on the plug to make sure its not running lean. its better to 4 stroke a little then to run lean
The 70 jet has worked perfect for me on two bikes I have with the RT carb very little 4 stroking dang near non existant completely and no lean condition on either bike either, I always have to solder and redrill the jet on the NT carbs but so far not required with the RT carbs I have, they just run up the rpms nice and smooth just like they should.
Map
Map
Okay, I got my new Dax F-80 2 stroke engine. I ordered a slant head and a BMX 10 tooth engine sprocket since I use a BMX chain. When I took it out of the box, to my surprise, the engine came with a slant head and the 10 tooth sprocket already installed on the engine as well as another slant head and 10 tooth sprocket in the box. I can't figure out if Duane simply installed the head and sprocket for me and then gave me extras by mistake?? or if the F-80 now comes with these things standard??
Anyway, so I put the engine on my bike, replaced the spark plug boot with an automotive quality one from the auto parts store, I also screwed the spark plug "cap" onto the end of the spark plug, I mixed up a mix of 70x1 with Opti-2 and fired it up. It seemed to run very well, no 4 stroking, no bogging down, lots of acceleration (I have a SBP exp. chamber), at 1/4 throttle it hit 20mph!! I drove it around the block of my neighborhood twice (maybe 1/8 mile at the most) never going above 1/2 throttle. When I got back to my driveway I shut it down and noticed that it was running really hot. The spark plug boot was too hot to even touch. I think I'm running too lean and decided that I need to jet up on my RT carb however, it was getting late and the day was done. I figured I would put it in the garage and let it cool down and mess with the carb another day. A week later I go to move the bike and I realize that the clutch won't disengage (when I pull the clutch lever it won't disengage). I took the spark plug off and it is not seized or anything, I mean, the piston moves up and down correctly. WTF happened?? Suggestions?
Anyway, so I put the engine on my bike, replaced the spark plug boot with an automotive quality one from the auto parts store, I also screwed the spark plug "cap" onto the end of the spark plug, I mixed up a mix of 70x1 with Opti-2 and fired it up. It seemed to run very well, no 4 stroking, no bogging down, lots of acceleration (I have a SBP exp. chamber), at 1/4 throttle it hit 20mph!! I drove it around the block of my neighborhood twice (maybe 1/8 mile at the most) never going above 1/2 throttle. When I got back to my driveway I shut it down and noticed that it was running really hot. The spark plug boot was too hot to even touch. I think I'm running too lean and decided that I need to jet up on my RT carb however, it was getting late and the day was done. I figured I would put it in the garage and let it cool down and mess with the carb another day. A week later I go to move the bike and I realize that the clutch won't disengage (when I pull the clutch lever it won't disengage). I took the spark plug off and it is not seized or anything, I mean, the piston moves up and down correctly. WTF happened?? Suggestions?
Last edited:
I think you answered your own question earlier in your post when you described how hot the engine was when you got back home, you shut it down and because of the excessive heat the rubber clutch pucks are slightly melted and stuck on the clutch pressure plate...
do what DD94 suggested and you will likey be good to go.
Map
Yeah, maybe I should read my own posts before asking questions, haha. Anyhow, I took the clutch cover off and found some problems. First, the clutch plate was really tight, I unscrewed the set screw and loosed the clutch plate until the clutch would disengage and reengage as it should. But the problem is that the holes in the clutch plate seem to be drilled a little too large so when I put the 3 pins into the holes there is a lot of play. When I tighten the clutch plate down and tighten the set screw, the clutch plate has a bit of a wobble. When I disengage the clutch it seems to stick briefly before breaking free from the gears. I'm not sure if this will be a problem or not but it is now engaging and disengaging at least. Also, I'm not sure if the heat caused this (it was a very short test ride), it sure did seem that the clutch plate was very tight to begin with. The pucks didn't look melted at all. The clutch pads look to be in excellent condition. Everything else looks great. I will try the 75 jet and see how it runs. I might have to go with a 71 or 72 to get it jetted correctly. It's too bad that it runs hot with the 70 jet because, except for the heat, it was running very well with lots of power. I'm not sure why the 70 jet is too lean, except I do have a bottle boost on the intake. I'm wondering how it would be if I disconnected it. The bottle boost was kinda bought on a whim when I first got my kit. Adding it was a little disappointing because the upgrade was not really noticeable. I left it on because I thought that it can't do any harm and might be making a slight difference but now I'm not so sure. Do you think the bottle boost could be causing a lean condition?I think you answered your own question earlier in your post when you described how hot the engine was when you got back home, you shut it down and because of the excessive heat the rubber clutch pucks are slightly melted and stuck on the clutch pressure plate...
do what DD94 suggested and you will likey be good to go.
Map
Yes, the motors from that factory come with the thin bmx 10 tooth sprocket and a slant head.
Yeah, maybe I should read my own posts before asking questions, haha. Anyhow, I took the clutch cover off and found some problems. First, the clutch plate was really tight, I unscrewed the set screw and loosed the clutch plate until the clutch would disengage and reengage as it should. But the problem is that the holes in the clutch plate seem to be drilled a little too large so when I put the 3 pins into the holes there is a lot of play. When I tighten the clutch plate down and tighten the set screw, the clutch plate has a bit of a wobble. When I disengage the clutch it seems to stick briefly before breaking free from the gears. I'm not sure if this will be a problem or not but it is now engaging and disengaging at least. Also, I'm not sure if the heat caused this (it was a very short test ride), it sure did seem that the clutch plate was very tight to begin with. The pucks didn't look melted at all. The clutch pads look to be in excellent condition. Everything else looks great. I will try the 75 jet and see how it runs. I might have to go with a 71 or 72 to get it jetted correctly. It's too bad that it runs hot with the 70 jet because, except for the heat, it was running very well with lots of power. I'm not sure why the 70 jet is too lean, except I do have a bottle boost on the intake. I'm wondering how it would be if I disconnected it. The bottle boost was kinda bought on a whim when I first got my kit. Adding it was a little disappointing because the upgrade was not really noticeable. I left it on because I thought that it can't do any harm and might be making a slight difference but now I'm not so sure. Do you think the bottle boost could be causing a lean condition?
Did you check your spark plug color?
On my last build it ran so hot that the steel base of the spark plug would turn a light grayish blue color after just a few miles of riding, plug color was a bit grayish, so drilled jet up one size which got the plug color to a light-medium brown and then after riding for several miles I could touch the head without getting an instant burn, I also installed a Puch 70cc hi hi head which made it run even cooler up top.
If you have some wire gauge drill bits I would find the one that fits the 70 jet and then drill it with the next larger bit and see what it does then, I get my bit sets from widgetsupply cheap and they ship quick in my experience, best place I have found for all the dremel tool bits I use for port work on my jugs and bits for drilling the carb jets.
Note: I'm running RT carb myself now, I'm using 70 jet with heavily ported jug, shorty manic intake, Puch 70cc hi hi head, expansion exhaust and right now it will cruise @ 40-42mph in the 8000+RPM range and I have a nice brown plug color and no overheating, I'm at 1,240ft above sea level.
My original lean run condition and overheating was when I was still running the NT carb before I jetted it up a little.
Here is a couple links to the bit set and a pin vise for the bits.
http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/WB05.html
http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/SHG3-840.html
Hope this helps and hope you get it worked out asap.
Map
Didnt see much on the bad about this bottom end. Has anyone installed it and experienced a loss of power? I replaced a stock bottom end and it cut the power way down? Thanks.