Cranbrook Springer Forked BTR YD100 Replica Build (without fabrication)

A good cutting oil is Pennzoil 10wt, drilling D2 steel with a 1/32dia drill many diameters deep. Works and is low cost.
I have earned a good living for fifty years. In my trade water soluble oil is the preferred lube/coolant.
I have use WD40 as a cutting oil, best on aluminum for surface finish does create an unpleasant fog.
Tom
 
Next time I am looking at the stuff I'll get the name. I know the stuff has a red translucent color. It is light weight viscosity. I have seen systems that use those flexible nozzles and pump the fluid at work on a part being machined. A pan recaptures the fluid and returns it to the pump after filtering out particles.
 
www.homedepot.com

Oatey 32 oz. Dark Thread Cutting Oil 30204 - The Home Depot

Oatey - 32 oz. Dark Cutting Oil - This product is easily applied for several effects. In addition to its primary function, it also extends the life of dies. Furthermore, it is anti-mist and non-staining.
www.homedepot.com

Probably this stuff as the fold down pour tip and the ridges in the neck of the bottle are the same. The color of the container was red and white, but in over 30 years they probably made changes.
 
MEASURE TWICE said:
www.homedepot.com

Oatey 32 oz. Dark Thread Cutting Oil 30204 - The Home Depot

Oatey - 32 oz. Dark Cutting Oil - This product is easily applied for several effects. In addition to its primary function, it also extends the life of dies. Furthermore, it is anti-mist and non-staining.
www.homedepot.com

Probably this stuff as the fold down pour tip and the ridges in the neck of the bottle are the same. The color of the container was red and white, but in over 30 years they probably made changes.
Click to expand...
Wow, thanks

Appreciate you !!!
 
Progress!!!

Probably need to cut the back angle on the tank just a light bit more...

Held together with magnets lol
8FAAFDB3-093B-4994-A41C-1B44B5251AE9.jpeg


Gaps are slightly larger since I noticed the bottom pipe slipper a bit before I grabbed a picture
 
fasteddy said:
Hi, Danny,
A very nice start and I was thinking to myself that now the real journey begins as you weld it up. That is the site. They have an impressive amount of things you didn't realize you needed.

Steve.
Click to expand...
You are correct sir. The real journey begins now as I weld.

I’ve been glancing through that website. Came across it on another thread from this site. Going to have to spend a little more time looking at that website.

I would really like to find a filler cap in copper. But the brass looks sweet also.

I may have some questions for you on a few things in have already seen there.

Thanks again for the nice complements
 
Used my angle grinder to get closer tolerances on my notching. I’m ready to begin brazing except for the new forks. Upon closer inspection they are 1/2” taller than what is on it. I will wait for the forks before beginning the brazing.

On a side note, I also picked up some 16 ga sheet metal to use on the ends of the gas tank. Tank/pipe is 14 ga. Anyway, welding practice is coming along. Not pretty in places but that’s what practice is for.

This site rotates some of my picS, don’t know why
 

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So welding doesn’t look great but the grinder can fix most of that. Do have some pin holes, can see them when I hold it up to the light. Gonna continue the practice and see if I can seal most of them.

Here’s a little practice piece
 

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After 2 welding sessions and 2 grinding sessions I can still see 6 pin holes with a bright light. Welding session 3 coming up.

this is my practice piece but I’m starting to get it.

My next thoughts on the tank are the bungs and petcock that are necessary. My understanding is those should be TIG welded. Is this going to be possible to weld some bullet bungs (for mounting the tank) inside a 4” diameter exhaust pipe?
 
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