Clutch Pucks upgraded anyone?

LS614 said:
I swear I was reading someone's thread who has fixed a stripped head stud hole with a helicoil, I may PM them too. I can't wait to share the results of my revamped clutch and my freshly welded sbp exhaust :) Thanks again, I was thinking about that and thinking how I'll need 10mm minimum. Peace
-LS
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You're very welcome LS, I just hope you can get that thing fixed asap and get rolling again soon.....

Peace
 
Tried the pucks I made from the mcmaster material and I used my propane hardened and scored pressure plate. It's grippy :D I didn't know what clutch slipping really felt like until I realized what it feels like to NOT have it. Feels good :)
 
LS614 said:
Tried the pucks I made from the mcmaster material and I used my propane hardened and scored pressure plate. It's grippy :D I didn't know what clutch slipping really felt like until I realized what it feels like to NOT have it. Feels good :)
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Yep........it is nice!

Peace
 
kojak said:
Is the clutch material meant to engage on both sides? The replacement clutch puck I got from gasbike were some kind of fiberboard/rubber mesh and solid rubber on one side, just like the ones I took out of my motor. I replaced them the same way the stock pads were installed, with the rubber side facing inward, though I was tempted to alternate them.

I did spend some time wearing out some razor blades cutting them down so that they fit loosely; after all that work I could have just mad my own from some Mcmaster clutch material like another member suggested.
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mapbike said:
You did the right thing by fitting them the way you discribed, if they move freely they will hook up on the flywheel and the pressure plate much better, and when it comes to resizing those stock pucks, a bench grinder and a good eye for not taking off to much will get them resized very quick.
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Okay this is a newbee question and I assume the answer is rubber side in.

A friend and I took off the clutch cover to adjust the clutch now that I had a over heat and the engine seems to be a bit tighter to start. I am experiencing clutch delay in turning the motor but I hope all is well. It runs fine and even feels more sporty. I believe I have broke the motor in.
Now on the heat I found that the air flow is semi-dead-zone in the V of this Giant Boulder so I must modify the air flow and soon. Working on some ideas.

What we discovered once the clutch cover was off was the small bolt-screw had come out and machined the threads off the end but also the pucks were installed with the rubber side out.
My friend has always installed puck with the rubber side in.

So 1.) I'd like to have the nice pucks this thread mentions and 2.) rubber side out? It sure sounds great like a motor cycle taking off. I dig that sound but ??

So if you guys don't mind I need advice. What is the right way for pucks? I read and assume it's rubber side in.

Learning as I go.

I would like a better grip because it's a concern that the motor is not as easy to spin up as before. I hope I didn't shorten the motor's life with the over heat on a long ride. I do know why it happened after some thinking about things.

So thanks and I appreciate this thread.
 
If you look at the edges of the pucks there typically will be a ridge going around the outside of them. That ridge is usually all that is needed to be trimmed off.
Just file the edges of the pucks a little at a time until they can move freely in the pockets that they fit inside. You don't want a totally sloppy fit, just free to wiggle a little and move in and out of the pockets as the pressure plate moves in and out.
 
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