Calling all engineres and people who own Worksman bikes
- Thread starter Lurker
- Start date
I cut up my worksman pretty much, which means I cut away the front frame ahead of the seat post and welded on 3/4" black steel pipe, I did save the throat of course. This allowed me to lenghten the bike 5" and I am 230 pounds and have ridden the bike on fairly rough dirt roads including some bouncing and the rear wheel has held up so far. No indications of cracking or weakness. Have a monarch fork on the front. To me the rear of the frame is the key and the worksman is very strong (at least I think so). Fatty here (me) even bent the layback seatpost I bought after market (bouncing on the seat tends to put more than 230 pounds of pressure on the post)...had to make one out of steel. The worksman was designed for fat supervisors pedaling around the factory floor so it is plenty rugged.
So I was brainstorming today about how to reinforce the frame. Which led me to thinking about cars and sometimes in unibody race cars they add expanding urethane foam to the voids in the body to stiffen it up.
On a side note, this is not the stuff you buy at the hardware store.
Do you guys think this would make any difference in bike frame?
On a side note, this is not the stuff you buy at the hardware store.
Do you guys think this would make any difference in bike frame?
Can i recommend a Cleveland Welding Co. frame. I have a 40's roadmaster and it has the beefiest frame i have ever seen. Their is also alot more room for a larger engine.
That's good to know, Pat. I'm not a welder, so don't appreciate the differences in fillet brazed frames and lugged frames. For my engines and lower speeds I'm sure the old American made frames are plenty good enough, but when you are pushing the limit then everything has to be the best. Keep it safe.
SB
That's a honey of a bike...Can i recommend a Cleveland Welding Co. frame. I have a 40's roadmaster and it has the beefiest frame i have ever seen. Their is also alot more room for a larger engine.
SB
They go for around $100 bucks for a frame with bad paint . You can usualy find at least 1 on eBay.
WHOA!!!!!!!!!!! That thing begs for a Morini, a custom tank, and a layback seatpost. And, well shoot, that'd be about all you need. (That, and maybe some strong brakes.)what you think about this new cruiser frames?
the frame is called sm parts porucho
looks very solid and have the new standarts (1 1/8 headtube, dicsbrake)
That's a very nice looking frame. I like the crank-forward style.
With the CF, those handlebars are just not gonna work though.
rc
With the CF, those handlebars are just not gonna work though.
rc
Very nice....how heavy are the spokes? This would be ideal for removing the pedals and 9 Hp engine.
First of all, you're not going to fit any 2-stroke engine much more than 2-3 HP into a Worksman frame anyway, without cutting the frame up and re-welding it--at least, if you want it inside the front triangle. You might as well just buy a head tube and bottom-bracket tube and scratch-build the whole frame around whatever engine you want.
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-Or did you want to do this without any welding? Because that drastically limits your engine options, unless you pay somebody else for a custom frame.
Second of all, a typical adult puts out 1/4 to 1/3 HP on a bicycle, during normal use. A top athlete can put out maybe 3/4-HP sustained. If you want to know how much power & speed that bicycle frames are built for, that's about it.
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Most people who put bigger engines on motorized bikes use rear non-bicycle hubs, since the torque from a 4-5 HP engine is way beyond what bicycle hubs are built to withstand in normal use.
Also in my opinion,,,, when you get to speeds beyond 40 MPH, you should really have functioning full suspension--and that means oil-dampened suspension. There's some bikes people have built that look like they'd work just fine at 75 MPH--and other ones that would be scary at half that speed.