Bike builders that have machine tools/shops

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Greg58

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May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
This is kinda off topic but is pertaining to the shop, who still changes their own oil? I do, the local quick oil change places don’t take the time to re-install all the bolts in the belly pan. I noticed bumping at highway speeds a few years back and found two pan screws missing, the back of the pan was bouncing. This was on our Ford Escape, the pan must be in place for proper cooling. They also used an impact to tighten the other bolts and striped the nylon inserts in a couple.
 

Sidewinder Jerry

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Dec 19, 2011
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Rockwood, TN
This is kinda off topic but is pertaining to the shop, who still changes their own oil? I do, the local quick oil change places don’t take the time to re-install all the bolts in the belly pan. I noticed bumping at highway speeds a few years back and found two pan screws missing, the back of the pan was bouncing. This was on our Ford Escape, the pan must be in place for proper cooling. They also used an impact to tighten the other bolts and striped the nylon inserts in a couple.
I change the oil in my bicycle, riding mower, and push mower lol
 

curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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I use to change all my own oils, including my dads when he was alive, now with the bad joints I take it to a dealer, after all these years it's worth it. I have found out the quick change places like to change things that don't need to be PVC for one, and the price they charge for doing the extras ug..........Curt
 
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Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
Most of the quick change oil dealers use the cheapest oil filters available, I learned what a good oil filter means while working in the auto parts machine shop. Wix filters were one of the best then, fram is a good filter too. NAPA sold wix when I worked in the shop, Napa dropped the 5 from the part number. A 51515 was a Napa 1515.
 
Hey Fog sorry we all kinda hijacked your thread but there was no ill intent, a lot of the members here really enjoy building things and making parts. All I have in my shop is welders, ( a stick, mig and a 110v flux core) a torch set, a metal chop saw and a hydraulic press, a drill press, bench grinder, and a hand held grinder. I can make a lot of stuff if it needs bending, welding or grinding!
I’m jelly…
 

MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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This setup is for adding some caulking in confined space between truck cab rear window and camper shell front window.

This is specifically for the area where the bottom of the shell meets the truck bed rail.

There is an area about 1/2 foot length where the gasket has pushed out. I can see it and can scrape it away.

Then without lifting up the whole shell, just leave it on the truck and add some caulking. If it does not work, then I'll pay 120 dollars an hour to a shop.

Car wash does not cause any leak, except for the ones that are the touch-less type with only high pressure water. The winter storms of snow, sleet, & rain last time had it leak.

Ten years original gasket may need complete replacement though?

One thing though is the die grinder I replaced with this new one is very smooth running. I tested it out officially!

PS: Use gas mask and ear plugs beside heavy work apron and face shield! Note separate speed control in use. Warning on unit about the small cut off wheel should not be run full bore!
 

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MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,773
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This setup is for adding some caulking in confined space between truck cab rear window and camper shell front window.

This is specifically for the area where the bottom of the shell meets the truck bed rail.

There is an area about 1/2 foot length where the gasket has pushed out. I can see it and can scrape it away.

Then without lifting up the whole shell, just leave it on the truck and add some caulking. If it does not work, then I'll pay 120 dollars an hour to a shop.

Car wash does not cause any leak, except for the ones that are the touch-less type with only high pressure water. The winter storms of snow, sleet, & rain last time had it leak.

Ten years original gasket may need complete replacement though?

One thing though is the die grinder I replaced with this new one is very smooth running. I tested it out officially!

PS: Use gas mask and ear plugs beside heavy work apron and face shield! Note separate speed control in use. Warning on unit about the small cut off wheel should not be run full bore!
The flattened end also serve purpose to scrape bead into area. Have not gotten around to putting it to use yet, but will before rain starts as if it fails I need to schedule the pros to empty my wallet some.
 

MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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I'm not sure, but hope soon I can have myself getting try at having some of the donut things in my neck not messing with my hand pain.

Fixing up my motorbike I can find some time an windsurfing when wind is back.

The Dremel I had I replaced with a variable speed, not just high med low. The one before used a expendable safety if too much torque on the tool. A nylon spline that would melt would empty my pocket for replacement part. Why not a real clutch?

Standard an Metric Allen Wrench sets I should take them out of the package and inspect in case something is not good.

MT
It is now just over six years taking non-narcotic prescription for this. It still can give thought process a challenge some times. Additionally, you know, I was trying to make light of it saying donuts. The Discs and Spurs checked more recent with another MRI and now again another EMG an Nerve Conduction test waiting to get done. Can't wait to get the needles in my hand and arm and let them shock me! But the look of some people when I have my hand and arm out moving or clutched, is just precious to me. Will miss that when and if surgeon or something else gets thing back to square one;)
 
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MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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The idea for the caulking gun extension was a not a complete flop. The viscosity of the stuff would not allow it to work. If the caulking material was the consistency water, it would have. The vinyl tubing, I had between the caulking gun and the metal tube with larger inner diameter was along what did work. Still, it was not easy to get it smoothed out well in the cramped space between cab back window on pickup-truck to fix leak in shell forward seal on bed rail, but worked. Cleaned excess and am letting it dry a few days. In 2 weeks may see about a test with garden hose
 

MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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Ball end Std & Metric long allen wrench set added to the collection. Still like the shorter no-ball end in the fold out Std & Metric for quick access to using them when working on stuff.

Stuff being, doing the valve adjustment that requires taking the engine off the bike and removing the valves to grind valve stem tip a bit. This compensates for the seat smashing in, by the valve after 6 years of use.

I did this last time the engine was out of mechanical timing. Valve lash was nonexistent. I would have hot weather make the engine not able to restart. The paper air filter fowled with fuel spit at it. Yea, wrong way newton.

Piston moving up during compression and intake valve not closed soon enough is not good. Less compression and fuel exits across fuel jet in carb and venturi effect is just as good wetting air filter as putting some in the fuel air mix in cylinder.

FYI, Wrong Way Newton actually was this guy that had engine mounts break on his vehicle and went from out on Long Island New York and then to Manhattan and then to the New Jersey side of the Holland Tunnel.

He got past the toll booth I guess throwing the change in a machine, but got caught by police on exiting into New Jersey. I suppose he had to reach over to the passenger window if driving backward.

Also, back in New York near Long Island, my father had done not quite the same distance driving home and not opting for tow service back in the 70’s. He must have done maybe 20 miles at most using side streets only. He did not get stopped as I remember.

I tried to find out about only reverse available to use when motor mounts broken. Also, about this amazing drive backwards of like over a hundred miles. Nothing even about motor mounts with limiting to just reverse?

Anyway that guy must know how to use mirrors well. His neck was probably very sore if kept twisted all the time, so maybe mirrors did most of the navigating?

The rusted exhaust pipe I made for my motor bike with cast iron water pipe parts needed lots of penetrating fluid. Messed up my hand using a channel lock pliers. Vise Grip was a bit hard to fit without taking more stuff off. My hand is a lot better now.

The long Allen wrenches also had me use the pliers on the end to get into tight spaces. Yea probably voids warranty, be eh! I was so amazed when the union-coupling loosened up with vise grip and a huge adjustable wrench.

Next time wait for the penetrating fluid to do its job, else 5hrs work. I mean if it would have been just half that time, I would be happy.

Going to look for gaskets, which most I have except head gasket. Probably over internet mail order will be the way. The engine is Briggs from the 80’s era, so shops may not have it in my local dinky town.
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curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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The old school gap was 8 and 10 for, and then all of a sudden they they changed the new specs are to close in my opinion 5 and 7 I think, I doesn't take long to close the gap, I have had to open up a lot of newer engines that would not run, in my day.

Box end wrench works good to slip over the Allen to gain forse..............Curt
 

MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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Would this Briggs & Statton engine Model 91212-0219-01 have valve seats that without that special tool to remove the seat, costing lots, be able to be done if maybe the seats were not just lapped, or cut an lapped, or as some say just cut. Heating some I saw help remove seats.

I don't have but course an fine valve grinding compound and tool.

Valve guide I'm not sure they are replaceable. I don't think I need that done anyhow. Just would like to get it running well and the grinding the valve stem tip a second time, I'm not sure if it is not recommended. Buying the valves if I try doing that might be more costly than just getting another of the same used engine. I don't want to get something that I have to redo anything to how it fits in my motor bike though. Too much redesigning work.

Replacing the seat, I saw is just pressing it in place. I saw where just a socket and copper hammer. Maybe just regular steel hammer would do too. If to hold it in place better go around it with center punch and it holds better. One guy put first JB Weld in and while soft pressed the seat in like mentioned.

Saw on Jacks Small Engine Parts:
Cylinder Head Gasket 698717 $5.80
Intake Valve Seat 691701 $7.97
Exhaust Valve Seat 691702 $7.97
Shipping $9.95
Approximate Tax $3.00

Total $34.69

Local True Valve Hardware & Local Carquest have only basic stuff like air an fuel filter, so online mail order is probably what I do till maybe traveling out of town for other stuff needed.

PS:

Maybe Stanton online and others to check?

Pss from wrong way fuel for short moment during compression stroke. See filter picture. I would turn it upside down and get as much use out of the filter. But that is not going to get the compression back to normal. The oil bath filters don't clog like paper ones. Foam one I made not as good as paper when valves are in adjustment. I remember hearing a fluttering sound on a different engine where out of time valve would blow back into carb and suck into engine, this is what ratteled the carb butterfly of choke.
 

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MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
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As I remember now the choke was what rattled on the old Briggs Vacujet carb, when the valve lash was at zero.

Carquest in town is transferring from another store the head gasket. Cost around 7 dollars. I'll probably pull the head off and valves out and see if I'll just grind either or both valve seeing how much things mushed. Oh, that's what you say to sled dogs, I think?

On another thing I'm trying to find out what the EGR valve on my Pickup truck looks like, but all the shops have pointed to the top back of my engine. Nothing shows it is there.

A shop where I had some other work done, the guy mentioned I could do the replacing the EGR myself, since I have over 110K mi. He mentioned to access it, I have to take off the driver side wheel well cover to reach it on the side of the engine.

I probably will check with the dealer and see if they have pictures and the part. The little plastic things that keep the wheel well cover on, may get broken doing this, so some of those too I'll get. Gaskets necessary if they don't come with the new EGR, I will get too.

I know I wanted to change it out but seeing how my year vehicle is not even showing in my Hayes Manual correct (Manual covers 10-year period & mine was last year change maybe), I'm resorting to the dealer.

I lucked out when I thought I have lost my Timing Light. I only wanted to see if spark was not happening on occasion.

The inductive pickup type timing light is a way to not mess with the wires and wear out stuff. The engine would crank sometime and no pop like trying to start.

The EGR if bad maybe doing this. I found that pressing the accelerator pedal down a little at cranking helps it start when otherwise I hear only cranking. I know pedal should not be pressed except if it does not start per the guide that they give you with the new vehicle.

When I bought a new timing light and opened it an tested it at the auto parts store, it was just two days later when looking for my Briggs valve spring compressor and other stuff for the valve job on the motorbike, I found my Sears Timing Light.

The timing light was underneath a box of motor bike stuff I did not see it. The motor bike stuff was going to fall out the bottom of the cardboard box, so in the past I grabbed another cardboard box with the timing light in it and mesh the two together so I would not spill stuff.

I'll remember not to do that again. But lucky the guy credited all back and I returned the plastic timing light. Mine old one is metal with chrome! I used some of the credit back to buy my truck a new air filter.

The full synthetic mobile1 oil and oil filter I got at another store did not have my air filter.

A plus was by going to town, the Saturday vendors were out today by side of road selling stuff and I got some fresh sable fish already filleted. Going to brine and smoke it!

Freeall is good stuff. Less stinky that Liquid Wrench to free up rusted parts. After overnight outside no stink at all. While rain is to start up for a day, I could work on it inside maybe.

I got to make a note to change the oil on the Briggs before putting it back on the bike. Draining is easier unless you can turn the bike upside down. 130lbs, not with my spine. I resort to a hand oil pump. The thing get most of the oil out.

Three weeks and I can have done another new updated nerve conduction test and see the surgeon again.
 

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I'll just jump into this thread & repost from the other....

Here's my old lathe & mini mill that I bought from a friend when his father died... (this is what they looked like the day I brought them home).
They both needed a little cleaning up, but they both still work great & I also have several boxes of bits, replacement parts, & specialty tools for them for making special parts.

I also somehow also uploaded a picture of one of my old VW's... (it's such a cool picture that I'm gonna leave it here). (^)


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Notchbacks are way cool!