bad experiences so far :(

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by longhorn6, Sep 2, 2009.

  1. longhorn6

    longhorn6 New Member

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    Ok, so about a month ago I bought a grubee skyhawk 66cc motor kit from gasbike(dot)net. it arrived in perfect condition and looked sweet. So my dad and i got started (i'll go through the problems i've had to present problem) the first problem was that the chain that came with it broke while getting started and had to get a new one then that one broke too. both were regular bike chains. so i got a heavy duty bike chain that about half and inch thick. its like a motorcycle chain really big. just barely fits in the sprocket/holder/etc.......

    that fixed that so it would not break now and i could actually go. then i/my dad got it all together perfect ready to rock although it would start but not go when i gave it gas it stopped and bauged out. so my dad put it on 1/5 throttle pin and it went like a beast/bat out of **** 40 or maybe over. but it wont idle/stop i presently have to turn the kill switch on and off to stop and go (constantly in motion) so we put it on 2/5 (throttle pin) and it doesnt go and bauges out so i doesn't like it over 1 but its full throtlle or nothing.

    The throttle cable is loose but not to loose so WTF?? Note: every now and then it would stop with kill swith off so i'd give it a little gas then it would gooo i just dont know what to do, and now it won't even start anymore for some reason probably a quick fix or somethin IVE HAD A HORRIBLE EXPERIENCE WITH THIS SO FAR Almost gave up a couple times and wanted to throw this chinese piece of crap in the dump. its like its nmade out of potmetal not even real metal. i had another problem not related to the motor/carb not working if anyone wants to hear mounting/potmetal dont mix if anyone wants to know lmk. ANY HELP ?? first time on a motorized bike forum u guys popped up first on google hehe
     
    #1 longhorn6, Sep 2, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 3, 2009
  2. MB-Monkey

    MB-Monkey New Member

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    first thing i would check would be the throttle slide inside the carb housing. sounds to me like it is not lined up in the notch and nub there fore the needle does not operate properly. Unscrew the top of the carb and remove all parts. verify that they are together properly then put the slide back in make sure you line the nub up on the carb housing to the notch in the slide. take off the air cleaner so you can see inside and make sure the slide goes up and down with turning the throttle.
     
  3. longhorn6

    longhorn6 New Member

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    ok im going to go check that right now even though i THINK thats not the problem
     
  4. boz_m

    boz_m New Member

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  5. Kevlarr

    Kevlarr New Member

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    From what you're describing it sounds like you're either not using the clutch or you don't have it adjusted properly if you have to use the kill switch to stop.
     
  6. MB-Monkey

    MB-Monkey New Member

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    i agree that too can be an issue at hand but the throttle is def not working properly hard to troubleshoot the clutch if the throttle isn't working
     
  7. fall_down_stand_up

    fall_down_stand_up New Member

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    Have you ajusted the screw that the cable goes into the carb up or down?The further the screw is ajusted out the faster the engine will rev....
     
  8. camlifter

    camlifter Active Member

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    sounds like you have an air leak, probably where the carb clamps to the manifold. running the clip on the carb needle all the way on the bottom clip is making up for the air leak, air leaks will also make it idle fast.
     
  9. longhorn6

    longhorn6 New Member

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    Camlifter: Where exactly r u talking about, u mean the clamp where the carburater meats the engine? Thats on there pretty darn tight. Clip? needle?

    granburyman: I have that screw screwed in all the way, is that good?

    i fixed what mb-monkey talked about so gonna go test run it soon, although i have a problem with the clutch, gonna make another post about some parts i need in order to jump start it !!
     
  10. camlifter

    camlifter Active Member

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    where the carb clamps to the manifold there is a clamp, the carb has slots in it there, if the carb isn't pushed all the way onto the maniflod it will leak air there. clip, needle, is what i took as your word for throttle pin, what ever that is. the screw adjuster in the carb is for the idle, if you have it all the way in you have the idle set as high as it can go. back it out untill the idle is normal.
     
  11. myocardia

    myocardia New Member

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    camlifter is talking about where the carburetor attaches to the intake manifold, so yeah the engine. I think it may very well be an air leak also. Luckily, air leaks are usually pretty easy to find. Just hold a lit cigarette close to the area you think air may be leaking while the engine is running. I quit smoking 6 months ago, or I'd come over and bring my tools and a cigarette, since I only live about 30-45 minutes from you. If you continue having problems, try uploading a video of the engine running to youtube, so some of these experts around here can hear it running.
     
  12. longhorn6

    longhorn6 New Member

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    OMG i think u just solved one of my major problems !! indeed i have that screw adjuster as far as it can screw in, so thats the idle screw? ur saying if its all the way in its gonna go bonkers like it did meaning it was always idling like a banchie. thanks will fix that. Where do u recommend to put it for the first test run? half way? or somethin? And yeah i'll check the clamp for the manifold/carb. do u think u can answer my other post? if u haven't already lol
     
  13. Norman

    Norman LORD VADER Moderator
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    your in texas so am I I'm in the panhandle of tx if your close bring it to me I'll either get you
    going or I can put it to sleep.
    Norman
     
  14. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    As a starting point for the idle screw I would back the screw all the way out enough so it does not push up on the carburetor slide. Don't take the screw out of the carb though.
    Now start the engine and keep it running by using the throttle grip. Try to keep it at near idle speed and manually keep it running at that speed.
    Now turn the idle screw in untill you can hear it controlling the engine speed instead of you holding the throttle grip. Let go of the throttle grip and fine tune the idle screw untill the engine idles nicely.
    This may take a few tries, but it really is easy to do.
    Also with these cheap little engines it is common to have to re-adjust the idle speed regularly as they vibrate so much it will upset the screw position.
     
  15. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    or...

    With the motor not running, tighten the screw in as far as it will go (by hand, don't force it) then back it out 3 & 1/2 turns, this puts it pretty close (if it isn't - you may have other problems, like air leaks). Then start the motor and fine adjust the idle, in for up - out for down. (engine should be warmed up and w/o choke for this obv)

    *btw - something simple like a hair-tie looped around the screw and the top of the carb, only just enough for steady, gentle pressure - will help prevent vibrations from backing out the idle set screw yet still allow for adjustment. I have one that serves the dual purpose of this and dampening the vibration in a loop of fuel line that was previously causing frothing issues.

    Of course, now my hair is all unrestrained and crazy o_O

    hope this helps ;)
     
    #15 BarelyAWake, Sep 3, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2009
  16. longhorn6

    longhorn6 New Member

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    ok i thought u were talking about the screw INSIDE the carb. the one that goes in the middle of the float? your talking about the idle screw, so i guess i'll pull it all the way out but still attached to the carb and do what you were telling me. granman or whatever u made no sense i think you were talking about the top of the carb were you put the cable through and tighten? but thats just to tighten or loosen the cable how the heck would that make the motor rev? so is that pin INSIDE the carb INSIDE the float the JET right? now that should be screwed all the way in right? I'll see right now if the carbs on the manifold all the way, and i bought the ball bearing and stuff i need to have in order to jump start myself without a push so i have to wait till that comes in in order to make adjustments. FYI; It's as if it doesn't like when i give it gas but that may be fixed now idk............ No Like gas/throttle grip/ etc?
     
  17. freewheeling frank

    freewheeling frank New Member

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    just my two cents worth, stick with it there is alot of help here from some rally great poeple
     
  18. Kevlarr

    Kevlarr New Member

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    If you're throttle cable is too tight and not letting the slide close all the way THIS could very well be your problem. The threaded part that the cable goes into can screw in and out to either tighten or loosen the slack in the throttle cable, the round "nut" that's on it should be tightened DOWN against the top of the carb to lock the adjuster into place.

    Start with the CABLE adjuster all the way down, twist the throttle and if it doesn't return all the way without twisting it backwards screw the adjuster out until there's just a little bit of slack in the cable. Once the cable tension is correct tighten the jamb nut against the carb.

    Here's a picture of Norm's pen pointing you in the right direction. :D


    [​IMG]
     
  19. BarelyAWake

    BarelyAWake New Member

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    excellent Kevlarr lol - here's the idle screw ;)
    [​IMG]



    your bike is far cleaner than mine o_O
     
    #19 BarelyAWake, Sep 3, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2009
  20. Kevlarr

    Kevlarr New Member

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    After looking at the pic you posted in the other thread I'm pretty sure this is your problem longhorn.

    I don't think you could get the adjuster any further out.[​IMG]
     

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