1911 Indian

[cobrafreak]

I was looking through this thread again and I notice you talked about adjusting your spring on the cvt. Would you care to explain how you did that? I didn't even know that it had the ability to be adjusted. Thanks.

Hey Lurker. Good to hear from you. I haven't seen you around in a while. How's the brake upgrade going? I love the new rear disk I am running. Very capable brakes now.
Yeah, you have the ability to adjust the stall speed of the Comet. It's really easy to do. It's on the rear pulley. You take the center nut off and remove the pulley. It will have a green spring on it. You will see three holes on the pulley numbered 1,2,3. Stock setting is 1. If you want the rear pulley to shift into a taller ratio sooner you put the spring in 1, and latter 2, or 3. I went right to 3 because I know this transmission is designed for Karts that have small wheels. There is a yellow spring that takes it up a notch to 4,5,6 that you can buy online at various places. The shifting is subtle. In the stock "1" hole if you have the rear wheel raised and gas it the front and rear pulley wlll contract and enlarge about the same time. Now for me with the spring in "3" the front pulley will contract and after it hits the end the rear will expand.
It works a little better for me. Another tip I can pass on is the belt that comes with the Comet isn't really that great. Mine stretches and started to get sloppy. I bought on Ebay another but this one is made of kevlar and can't stretch as much and it works much better. Only cost me about 5 or 6 dollars.
I did a search on Comet belts and found all the serial numbers of like belts that are compatible. My new belt is a PIX A-203589A Kevlar 3/4" x 27 3/8", which is for Comet. You will like it. I have almost 550 miles on the new engine and love it.

 

[oldtimer54]

So I have a six bolt disk rear wheel for my 6.5 engine / CVT and I need a six bolt sprocket for it. How did you setup yours? Does anyone know where I can find one.

 

[cobrafreak]

My CVT runs on #41 chain and I know that #41 chain is compatible with 415 sprockets that the China Girl runs on, so I used my 50 tooth 415 sprocket that came with my original china girl engine kit. My 50 tooth sprocket bolts up to the Grubee rear hub. Is this what you were asking?

 

[Lurker]

So I have a six bolt disk rear wheel for my 6.5 engine / CVT and I need a six bolt sprocket for it. How did you setup yours? Does anyone know where I can find one.

I got mine from kings sales and service. It is a really high quality sprocket and I highly recommend it. There is a link to his site on the left of the page.

Thanks for the help with the cvt Cobra. I adjusted it last night and it seems to accelerate a bit better. My stock setting was on the 2nd notch so it wasnt a huge difference but is nicer. As for my brakes, I am just going to continue to use the single disc up front on this bike. I plan on selling it at the end of the summer so I can build my next bike over the winter. I am starting to plan it out and I want to keep it as authentic a possible yet still have good braking power. I think this next bike is going to open up even more creative ideas than the last or at the very least inspire others. I will try to keep a journal of sorts this time for other to enjoy. Thanks again for the help.

 

[cobrafreak]

I got mine from kings sales and service. It is a really high quality sprocket and I highly recommend it. There is a link to his site on the left of the page.

Thanks for the help with the cvt Cobra. I adjusted it last night and it seems to accelerate a bit better. My stock setting was on the 2nd notch so it wasnt a huge difference but is nicer. As for my brakes, I am just going to continue to use the single disc up front on this bike. I plan on selling it at the end of the summer so I can build my next bike over the winter. I am starting to plan it out and I want to keep it as authentic a possible yet still have good braking power. I think this next bike is going to open up even more creative ideas than the last or at the very least inspire others. I will try to keep a journal of sorts this time for other to enjoy. Thanks again for the help.

These engines really need an advancing of the ignition for quicker acceleration. AGK sells Ignition timing flywheel advance keys that will allow you to advance your flywheel either 4 degrees or 8 degrees with your existing flywheel. Costs under $10.
For your front brake, change the brake pads to the duel compound composition. They are the most expensive of bicycle brake pads and have the highest temperature resistance rating. If you look at the material on the pad surface it will be a different color in the middle than the edges. I think it is a combination of semi-metalic and ceramic. It's used for down hill racing. If you put these pads on your front caliper your braking will be much better.

 

[oldtimer54]

I got mine from kings sales and service. It is a really high quality sprocket and I highly recommend it. There is a link to his site on the left of the page.

Thanks for the help with the cvt Cobra. I adjusted it last night and it seems to accelerate a bit better. My stock setting was on the 2nd notch so it wasnt a huge difference but is nicer. As for my brakes, I am just going to continue to use the single disc up front on this bike. I plan on selling it at the end of the summer so I can build my next bike over the winter. I am starting to plan it out and I want to keep it as authentic a possible yet still have good braking power. I think this next bike is going to open up even more creative ideas than the last or at the very least inspire others. I will try to keep a journal of sorts this time for other to enjoy. Thanks again for the help.

Ive looked all over there site for ther "super sprockets" the ones that have a 6 hole pattern but I cant find em any where? Is this a custom made part? I need a 52 tooth one do you have a part number? Any help would be great.

 

[tomgndallas]

These engines really need an advancing of the ignition for quicker acceleration. AGK sells Ignition timing flywheel advance keys that will allow you to advance your flywheel either 4 degrees or 8 degrees with your existing flywheel. Costs under $10.
For your front brake, change the brake pads to the duel compound composition. They are the most expensive of bicycle brake pads and have the highest temperature resistance rating. If you look at the material on the pad surface it will be a different color in the middle than the edges. I think it is a combination of semi-metalic and ceramic. It's used for down hill racing. If you put these pads on your front caliper your braking will be much better.

Hey Cobra,

Didn't AGK have some writeup about doing a timing key mod to advance the ignition?

AGK - Install Aluminum Flywheel & Advance Timing - Affordable Go Karts

purchasing an advance key may be better, but sounds like you could carefully do it with these instructions and a micrometer

 

[cobrafreak]

Hey Cobra,

Didn't AGK have some writeup about doing a timing key mod to advance the ignition?

AGK - Install Aluminum Flywheel & Advance Timing - Affordable Go Karts

purchasing an advance key may be better, but sounds like you could carefully do it with these instructions and a micrometer

That is true. It's just only a ten buck part though.

 

[cobrafreak]

I noticed a slight hesitation at full throttle and did some research. The 22mm Mikuni carb is a good starting point stock, but it cant deliver enough fuel for the 6.5 hp engine at full throttle. I got my smallest drill bit, a .040 and drilled the main carb jet out. I also put the carb needle clip in the lowest setting so the needle is full up. Wow! The acceleration is screaming now. Just what it needed. It was quick before but it is in motorcycle territory now.

 

[Tre_in_L.A.]

You may want to reference AGK specs for setting up the Mikuni 22. I run Mikuni 22's on my 68 Yamaha 180cc twin cyl race bike. At sea level, I run 130 Mains and 12.5 pilot with Needle clip in center for a little more grunt at corner exits. Richer at lower RPM. A Mikuni 22 is just fine for the GX 200cc, great carby. Sounds like you got it good. Keep an eye on your plug, you might still be somewhat lean with a #40 drill size at full throttle. Cheers, mate

 

[Tre_in_L.A.]

Remember that a carb like this Mikuni is limited by throat diameter (air) and circuit size (fuel) - the 22 will be fine for as much hot rodding as you care to on that motor

 

[culvercityclassic]

Thanks for the input Tre

 

[rustycase]

Hey CobraFreak!

This is all fun stuff!

After reading the prior posts, is anyone considering using HEAVY flywheels ?

Of course you're gonna loose quick acceleration, yet everything else will be, more or less, smoothed out, and balance will be 'blended in', and the machine will 'motivate' in a fashion more in line with the early machines.

??? I dunno ??? LoL

Might be interesting...

Best
rc

 

[Tre_in_L.A.]

I had my modded GX 200 HF clone running today on the work bench. (lapped valves, billet con rod, flat top piston, 26# valve springs, 264 modified cam, 22mm Mikuni) Sounds good. I ran a couple of 10 minute break in periods and did notice as well some hesitation and back firing when I blipped the carb slide up with my finger. The carb now has stock jetting and the back firing would indicate a bigger pilot valve needed (likely a 12.5) and I should probably adjust the neddle valve clip position. Obviously, I have not run her up onto the main jet but I know for a fact that the stock 95 main will be way small. (Thanks, AGK for the parts and the quick delivery / customer service!)

What's a good break in procedure for this little motor?

 

[cobrafreak]

I would run it at various speeds below half throttle for a couple of hours and then change the oil.

 

[tomgndallas]

I would run it at various speeds below half throttle for a couple of hours and then change the oil.

with a fan blowing on it so it does not overheat...hehe.

Hey guys,

This is still an awesome thread. I am learning a ton...an update on my situation, just mailed the engine and ordered a comet CVT to send out to Dan at Taylarmotorbikes. I figure I will let Dan make up the first one so I can learn more about geometry and all that once I get the bike in my stable. Though I have to admit, I am thinking my next build may be something like what Louie did...

http://motorbicycling.com/f36/1910-pierce-clone-peace-25753-8.html

that bad boy just looks comfy....and with the hopped up 6.5 clone as the engine...wow...look out daily commuter.

Tom G

 

[tomgndallas]

with a fan blowing on it so it does not overheat...hehe.

Hey guys,

This is still an awesome thread. I am learning a ton...an update on my situation, just mailed the engine and ordered a comet CVT to send out to Dan at Taylarmotorbikes. I figure I will let Dan make up the first one so I can learn more about geometry and all that once I get the bike in my stable. Though I have to admit, I am thinking my next build may be something like what Louie did...

http://motorbicycling.com/f36/1910-pierce-clone-peace-25753-8.html

that bad boy just looks comfy....and with the hopped up 6.5 clone as the engine...wow...look out daily commuter.

Tom G

oh yes I forgot....

since HF now has the predator 212 i am sure that is mostly the same, but has anyone checked it out?? i went to HF over the weekend for their parking lot sale, bought a sweet drill press. They had a few used greyhound 6.5's out there, but wanted 70 for them even on Sunday. I should have just made an offer, maybe I will this week. Since these engines are basically no longer in production, i would imagine they would start to become even more in demand.

What are your thoughts Cobra? Sorry to hijack your thread, but I seriously look to you as one of the pioneer for MB and these engines. You have contributed a ton to the cause brother!!




Tom G

 

[tomgndallas]

I got the transmission today!
It was mis delivered to the same street number but different street. Haha. Ok, I have it sitting on the engine and the engine sitting on the frame:

In order for pedal clearance on both sides and the final drive chain to perfectly hit the rear sprocket strait the engine block centerline needs to be 2.5 inches farther out the right hand side. Hey, valve adjustments will be doable with the engine in the frame.

Since I know I will have to work through this issue also, what pedals did you use and how were they modified? With the engine offset and the cvt, these things have to be a bit wide...just curious what your measurements came out to be.

 

[cobrafreak]

Wide, yes, but workable. You must get the extra wide pedal crank or you are not going to get it to work. Several motorbike vendors sell it. I did a google search and found one on Ebay for under $20. Read what I had to do to make it work. It's made for loose bearings and I had to mod it for sealed bearings. The most important thing to do is when you get the comet on the engine to get the chainrings from the comet to align 100%, not 98%. It has to be perfect or you are going to see bad things happen (as Lurker said). (Don't ask me how I know) Lol. When you are all aligned the head will be around 1.5 inches or so to the right side of the tank main tube. It's subtle and nobody has ever noticed.

 

[cobrafreak]

I played around with my Comet with the three adjustment holes on the rear pulley and how they really change the ride characteristics of the clone engine. I mentioned earlier in a post that if you put the spring in hole #3 it will stall the rear pulley shift for added quickness, but that was really an over-simplified answer. I have the full breakdown now.

Spring in hole #1: The bike will have the highest top speed. The acceleration will be the slowest. The engine braking will be the best. I currently have the Indian in this setting. When you have a street bike with not the greatest brakes this is a really good setting to be in. The engine will stay engaged (with a 50 tooth rear sprocket) till you come down to 15 mph. I would say 1/3 less braking is required with this setting because the engine does such a good job of slowing you down. Really effective. Potentially the best milage of all three settings. I had to remove my automatic chain adjuster because no amount of spring tension can cope with all the reverse torque.

Spring in hole #2: This is the stock setting. I used to think hole #1 was stock, but I was wrong, #2 is. It is the middle of the road. Neither fantastic acceleration, top speed, or quickness. Truly middle of the road. I suppose that when the Comet is set up on a Cart racer it will behave much different than a bike due to the tire diameter, but on a bike it doesn't stand out in any particular area. It doesn't have any noticeable engine braking effects on my bike set-up at least.

Spring in hole #3: This is the quickest setting. It holds the rear pulley in the highest ratio longer. With my 50 tooth chain ring it will out accelerate automobiles from lights on a regular basis. But the charging acceleration stops around 35mph and then once you are at 40 the effect slows way down. This would be good for sprint races where you have really fantastic brakes, because the Comet will disengage the engine as soon as you decelerate. Any stopping you will do must come from your brakes because that is all you are going to have. I liked the acceleration on the street but once I found the engine braking characteristics of setting #1 I switched.