Bike builders that have machine tools/shops

GoldenMotor.com

Johnny_

New Member
Oct 24, 2024
1
3
3
16
Not quite machine tools or a shop but saved myself $22. Broke the wheelbarrow handle with my car and bought a replacement. The new one is much larger and would have to have the strong side horizontal. Also I’d have to take apart the whole thing to fix.

The right way woulda been to buy two so it looked and felt right. But I didn’t wanna spend almost $50 on this POS.

View attachment 116024

Decided to fab up a bolt on handle.

Found the perfect piece of scrap with its previous mistakes. And a scrap chinesium angle from some old bed frame.

View attachment 116021

View attachment 116022

Cut the angle, heated with map gas to loosen the paint on it, wire brushed until metal was clean, welded it up and bolted it in.

View attachment 116023

Way easier and faster I think than taking all the crap out the wheelbarrow, taking it apart, blah blah. Now to go and get my $22 back.

That’s two projects for the day off so far, got more but I’m running out of “spoons” fast.
That looks really good! Is it pretty sturdy? I wonder if you could do the same thing for post hole diggers. Their handles are always breaking lol. They're much the same style as wheelbarrow handles.
 

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,777
1,279
113
CA
My camper shell on my pickup truck I redid the 14-year-old original waterproof seal around the bed rails of the truck.

Only it took until a light rain, that came about a month later, did I see a leak. Yep, I did not have time to water test it after completion, as I had to clear away all my set up gear to raise the shell and finish the job before bad weather rolled in. Only a carport not a garage.

Then when seeing that in about a month’s time the shell had shifted back about 3/4 of an inch. The front seal rail behind the cab was only being half covered.

As to why it shifted with the 4 clamps as I had purchased new ones the same as before and used them, I can only think it had to do with the different seal material.

The double ribbed rubber material I used now as compared to the way larger amount of foam that was used originally 14 years ago when installer did it, seems that there is way more surface area of the foam prior and more friction holding it from sliding with the way it was before.

Powdered metal on the bottom of the clamp, that pressed on the underside of the bedrail meant either drill holes and bolt it and it won't move, or up the number of clamps as many shells have 8 clamps or more.

Alternately with less problem with rust when drilling method with bolts, I have decided 4 clamps are not enough given the less gasket surface area. Like one 6th the surface area!

The rubber gasket is supposed to last longer and seal better. It seals water out perfect, but I will have to use 8 clamps, or 12 clamps, if necessary, now.

I did make a bit of improvement on the hoist this second time. Instead of 4 lines connected to the corners of the roof rack and connect in the middle above the shell, I used two deer fence posts criss crossing above. From the corners of the two roof racks that amount of line that stretches is not a good idea.

The metal fence posts do not flex much any. Comparatively a small amount of line connected in the center to the criss crossing posts eliminated stretch by a long shot.

Only the stability with the center not being exactly weighted even, meant the forward portion dipped down. Fixed that with a few light weight lines to keep things square.

I have since now am clamping it with more clamps. I did a water test with the hose and saw no leaks initially. Then after a while I saw water leaking down from the front fold down window seal on the camper shell, just behind the cab window.

I did address that area for my misunderstanding of how the drain slots indicated in the picture. What I mean is I covered up the drain slots of which there were four of them. It was incorrect of me to do that.

I see that I will have to remove the foam I put where there was none before and just redo the original gasket on the fold down window on the shell with new material that will complete all the gaskets that were in place as originally.

If the gasket leaks past it a little on the fold down window, I understand correctly now that it is a way to drain to the outside.

I did not bother to shim one side of my trucks tires. You know the carport floor is on a slight slope.

In clamping down the clamps for the shell to bed rails, I knew I could tighten down the clamps partially and the hoist line would stretch slightly. No harm if not too much stretch. Once I got it in position to tighten all the way down, I prior let some slack in the hoist line.

Heat gun and some tools to remove gasket needing replacement will be for window if solvent and elbow grease does not do it. Just may just a hair dryer on low. The fiberglass shell probably more forgiving that the glass window!

MT
 

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Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
7,339
1,995
113
Los Angeles, CA.
My camper shell on my pickup truck I redid the 14-year-old original waterproof seal around the bed rails of the truck.

Only it took until a light rain, that came about a month later, did I see a leak. Yep, I did not have time to water test it after completion, as I had to clear away all my set up gear to raise the shell and finish the job before bad weather rolled in. Only a carport not a garage.

Then when seeing that in about a month’s time the shell had shifted back about 3/4 of an inch. The front seal rail behind the cab was only being half covered.

As to why it shifted with the 4 clamps as I had purchased new ones the same as before and used them, I can only think it had to do with the different seal material.

The double ribbed rubber material I used now as compared to the way larger amount of foam that was used originally 14 years ago when installer did it, seems that there is way more surface area of the foam prior and more friction holding it from sliding with the way it was before.

Powdered metal on the bottom of the clamp, that pressed on the underside of the bedrail meant either drill holes and bolt it and it won't move, or up the number of clamps as many shells have 8 clamps or more.

Alternately with less problem with rust when drilling method with bolts, I have decided 4 clamps are not enough given the less gasket surface area. Like one 6th the surface area!

The rubber gasket is supposed to last longer and seal better. It seals water out perfect, but I will have to use 8 clamps, or 12 clamps, if necessary, now.

I did make a bit of improvement on the hoist this second time. Instead of 4 lines connected to the corners of the roof rack and connect in the middle above the shell, I used two deer fence posts criss crossing above. From the corners of the two roof racks that amount of line that stretches is not a good idea.

The metal fence posts do not flex much any. Comparatively a small amount of line connected in the center to the criss crossing posts eliminated stretch by a long shot.

Only the stability with the center not being exactly weighted even, meant the forward portion dipped down. Fixed that with a few light weight lines to keep things square.

I have since now am clamping it with more clamps. I did a water test with the hose and saw no leaks initially. Then after a while I saw water leaking down from the front fold down window seal on the camper shell, just behind the cab window.

I did address that area for my misunderstanding of how the drain slots indicated in the picture. What I mean is I covered up the drain slots of which there were four of them. It was incorrect of me to do that.

I see that I will have to remove the foam I put where there was none before and just redo the original gasket on the fold down window on the shell with new material that will complete all the gaskets that were in place as originally.

If the gasket leaks past it a little on the fold down window, I understand correctly now that it is a way to drain to the outside.

I did not bother to shim one side of my trucks tires. You know the carport floor is on a slight slope.

In clamping down the clamps for the shell to bed rails, I knew I could tighten down the clamps partially and the hoist line would stretch slightly. No harm if not too much stretch. Once I got it in position to tighten all the way down, I prior let some slack in the hoist line.

Heat gun and some tools to remove gasket needing replacement will be for window if solvent and elbow grease does not do it. Just may just a hair dryer on low. The fiberglass shell probably more forgiving that the glass window!

MT
I'm the type of guy who would simply bolt it down & be done with it. ;)