Bike builders that have machine tools/shops
- Thread starter Tom from Rubicon
- Start date
Tony01
Well-Known Member
Well in 6 days I called three times total, of those left two voicemails and sent one text. The guy who’s leasing (I guess?) my friends shop told my friend that I need to stop calling because I’m too annoying… uhm what? My friend is clearly in need of cash, trying to sell a bunch of tools and materials and looking for more construction gigs so I dunno! I don’t know what’s wrong with these CA people….
Tom from Rubicon
Well-Known Member
Time to seek a new source? Between FB Market and Craigslist.....
Tom
Tom
Tony01
Well-Known Member
It’s not a big loss, but I passed up a lot of other good deals. Like a plasma cutter for $50. This tool is probably frustrating to use. I had to make a couple of bronze bushings on a mini lathe once. The fken tailstock didn’t let me drill deep enough for both parts in one shot. It’s a sign from above to not waste time with this garbage and wait till I have a shop to put real tools, maybe only go regular fab tools for now. A plasma cutter, a weld table, a saw. Oh I know a guy has a little ryobi for free…
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Tom from Rubicon
Well-Known Member
A sharp wood bandsaw blade will work fine at 250 SFPM, with light oil lube. In my experience. But.
Using wood bandsaw for cutting Aluminum - The Home Machinist! (chaski.org)
Tom
Using wood bandsaw for cutting Aluminum - The Home Machinist! (chaski.org)
Tom
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
I can't say I have used a band saw much as I can remember. Though back in the 70's our household had a scroll saw. Mostly good for soft wood like balsa wood.
There was building scale model boats powered by glow plug engines. Think that the idea was to test it out in the bath tub. I guess I was gullible.
I did listen to instructions on carving a wood propeller. I was seen making a solid balsa wing. Spars and paper doped over would have been nice. Kit form I did mess with that.
I saw one of my windsurf crowd have in his van a jig to put together a fiberglass windsurf board into. You know custom made himself, one of the outliers? Kudos I say!
I used to have a 2.9 square meter windsurf sail I used on a sinker 85 liter narrow 8ft windsurf board. It was El Nino back in the 90's at Half Moon Bay Harbor, rigging in the rain at dawn.
Wind so strong that it was necessary to walk into the wind on a slight slant to not get blown over. A hand over nostrils to keep them from wind shutting them closed along with sand blowing in your eyes, now you are into it!
Only I missed knowing that while I was there, in a bar Neil Young was playing a place smaller venue than the Catalyst in Santa Cruz.
Bla Bla,
MT
There was building scale model boats powered by glow plug engines. Think that the idea was to test it out in the bath tub. I guess I was gullible.
I did listen to instructions on carving a wood propeller. I was seen making a solid balsa wing. Spars and paper doped over would have been nice. Kit form I did mess with that.
I saw one of my windsurf crowd have in his van a jig to put together a fiberglass windsurf board into. You know custom made himself, one of the outliers? Kudos I say!
I used to have a 2.9 square meter windsurf sail I used on a sinker 85 liter narrow 8ft windsurf board. It was El Nino back in the 90's at Half Moon Bay Harbor, rigging in the rain at dawn.
Wind so strong that it was necessary to walk into the wind on a slight slant to not get blown over. A hand over nostrils to keep them from wind shutting them closed along with sand blowing in your eyes, now you are into it!
Only I missed knowing that while I was there, in a bar Neil Young was playing a place smaller venue than the Catalyst in Santa Cruz.
Bla Bla,
MT
Tom from Rubicon
Well-Known Member
Well it looks like I am back in my machine shop soon. Today I ordered soft jaws for the Bison three jaw chuck. Side job for a grade school buddy.
Same lathe jaws in 2008 @ $24 US, are now $53. Need machinable lathe chuck jaws for difficult to hold parts. I would post photos but need the IT dude to sort photo down load and import protocol.
Same lathe jaws in 2008 @ $24 US, are now $53. Need machinable lathe chuck jaws for difficult to hold parts. I would post photos but need the IT dude to sort photo down load and import protocol.
Glad to hear you're back at it, Tom. This latest round of arthritis has lasted so long my clothes are out of date. I was out in the garage myself yesterday pushing piles of crap around trying to remember what it was for. What's in this box, has yielded some surprises. I have been ordering parts and the folks have been stacking them up in the garage for me.
Out of stock and the price increases on a lot of things has been surprising, Two months from China is about right.
Steve.
Out of stock and the price increases on a lot of things has been surprising, Two months from China is about right.
Steve.
Tom from Rubicon
Well-Known Member
This project began last year, and seemed simple enough at the outset. Buddy has collected telegraph insulators for ever. Table mount display is the requirement. The insulators are a three piece affair, the glass insulator, wooden intermediate called a cob, and the steel mount to a cross bar.
The crossbar mounting (bolt) has what looks like a 5/8" wood screw to mate with the wooden cob and about a inch of unthreaded 1/2" terminating in a round head flange. Other side of the flange is the draw bolt fitted in a telegraph pole cross bar. The draw bolt bit is to be replaced with a short 1/2-13 stub.
I hit the wall so to speak being able to grip the round between the flange and cob mount threads of insulator post they call them.
Administrator: I know this is not MB related but it has relevance in the machine shop thread.
The crossbar mounting (bolt) has what looks like a 5/8" wood screw to mate with the wooden cob and about a inch of unthreaded 1/2" terminating in a round head flange. Other side of the flange is the draw bolt fitted in a telegraph pole cross bar. The draw bolt bit is to be replaced with a short 1/2-13 stub.
I hit the wall so to speak being able to grip the round between the flange and cob mount threads of insulator post they call them.
Administrator: I know this is not MB related but it has relevance in the machine shop thread.
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
I went fishing to day. Well, I actually used a tool, ya know, a whatchmacallit that has a long handle with a strong magnet on the end to pick up ferrous material.
The landlord had a re-roofing job done on a building on the opposite of the driveway.
Just like the workers that removed the trash last time they did not clean up and lots of metal and nails of all sorts in the drive way.
Some other guy is to clean up the grounds, but never showed up since the work was completed.
With the landlord being who he is and time will tell when I am elsewhere, I really needed to get this done.
I did a pattern to try an cover where stuff may be left to put a nail in a tire.
A bigger type with wheels would have been better, but I just used the puck size magnet on the long pole handle and dragged it as I walked. Occasionally I would check to what I got.
I know the longer nails that use a hammer probably. Of those, I saw anywhere from 1 to 3 inch lengths.
What is with the smaller type of nail, maybe using the air tool to use a string of nails, I suppose, in an air gun for nails?
See attached photo with some metal wire left attached to threads on the small nail. Bread bag plastic closure in picture to show relative size.
Are the wires sort of looking welded to the nail threads in two places part of sort of like a machine gun bullets ganged together to facilitate running a bunch of nails in the air compressor powered nail tool?
I thought that or that it makes the nails stay in the wood better?
MT
The landlord had a re-roofing job done on a building on the opposite of the driveway.
Just like the workers that removed the trash last time they did not clean up and lots of metal and nails of all sorts in the drive way.
Some other guy is to clean up the grounds, but never showed up since the work was completed.
With the landlord being who he is and time will tell when I am elsewhere, I really needed to get this done.
I did a pattern to try an cover where stuff may be left to put a nail in a tire.
A bigger type with wheels would have been better, but I just used the puck size magnet on the long pole handle and dragged it as I walked. Occasionally I would check to what I got.
I know the longer nails that use a hammer probably. Of those, I saw anywhere from 1 to 3 inch lengths.
What is with the smaller type of nail, maybe using the air tool to use a string of nails, I suppose, in an air gun for nails?
See attached photo with some metal wire left attached to threads on the small nail. Bread bag plastic closure in picture to show relative size.
Are the wires sort of looking welded to the nail threads in two places part of sort of like a machine gun bullets ganged together to facilitate running a bunch of nails in the air compressor powered nail tool?
I thought that or that it makes the nails stay in the wood better?
MT
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Tom from Rubicon
Well-Known Member
Just a ring shank nail.
Tom
Tom
Are the wires sort of looking welded to the nail threads in two places part of sort of like a machine gun bullets ganged together to facilitate running a bunch of nails in the air compressor powered nail tool? Right you are, and the ring shank will hold better the the wires..........Curt
Tom from Rubicon
Well-Known Member
MT, the wires are just an element in the nail delivery system. Originally nails came in staggered sticks the lead nail was always the lowest one to avoid nail heads snagging. The current "Belt delivery system" uses wires resistance welded to nails at a specific interval for feeding a nail gun. All the nails at the house construction near me, I find nails are like your example up to ten penny.
Tom
Tom
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
Below is an inquiry to what may be an old Coca-Cola bottle I found that was uncapped and under the river where I was scuba diving.
I found it on the river bed filled with silt and other growth of red and green stuff on inside and out of the glass.
"I found a Coca-Cola 12 oz bottle recently, that I wish to be able to figure the date of manufacture.
The bottom of the bottle has some numbers and letters in the glass molding.
Other than that the bottle does says REG US PAT OFF.
Though I do not see where a picture of the bottle and codes are, the bottle bottom code looks like:
8D O 60 with another 0 underneath that string of number/letters.
Thanks"
Coca-Cola's reply back unfortunately mention stuff about where on bottle or if can and carton, a best by use date for their product. They said if I wanted to contact them again I can.
I may do this, an also specify that I am curious not about best by use date, but the bottle maybe being a collector’s item that it is maybe over 50 years from manufacture date.
I attached pictures attached of the bottle after cleaning some for you to see. Their was no way initially to contact them and attach the pictures I took.
The webpage for Coca-Cola does have pictures of the patented shape of their bottles from 1899 to 1957 for 6 bottles shown.
Only there is nothing that mentions the codes on the bottom of the bottle that I would hope would determine the actual age of the bottle manufacture, or their abouts.
Any thoughts, besides just contacting Coca-Cola again?
I do understand that if Coca-Cola bottle is even from 1960's era, it is not worth very much, if I believe what Ebay sellers are asking for them. Something about late 1800's manufacture date would be more likely.
$600,000 is what one was sold at auction for some old bottle, but I can at-least identify the shape that was the last patent, just don't have more than that at this moment.
MT
I found it on the river bed filled with silt and other growth of red and green stuff on inside and out of the glass.
"I found a Coca-Cola 12 oz bottle recently, that I wish to be able to figure the date of manufacture.
The bottom of the bottle has some numbers and letters in the glass molding.
Other than that the bottle does says REG US PAT OFF.
Though I do not see where a picture of the bottle and codes are, the bottle bottom code looks like:
8D O 60 with another 0 underneath that string of number/letters.
Thanks"
Coca-Cola's reply back unfortunately mention stuff about where on bottle or if can and carton, a best by use date for their product. They said if I wanted to contact them again I can.
I may do this, an also specify that I am curious not about best by use date, but the bottle maybe being a collector’s item that it is maybe over 50 years from manufacture date.
I attached pictures attached of the bottle after cleaning some for you to see. Their was no way initially to contact them and attach the pictures I took.
The webpage for Coca-Cola does have pictures of the patented shape of their bottles from 1899 to 1957 for 6 bottles shown.
Only there is nothing that mentions the codes on the bottom of the bottle that I would hope would determine the actual age of the bottle manufacture, or their abouts.
Any thoughts, besides just contacting Coca-Cola again?
I do understand that if Coca-Cola bottle is even from 1960's era, it is not worth very much, if I believe what Ebay sellers are asking for them. Something about late 1800's manufacture date would be more likely.
$600,000 is what one was sold at auction for some old bottle, but I can at-least identify the shape that was the last patent, just don't have more than that at this moment.
MT
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Tony01
Well-Known Member
Not quite machine tools or a shop but saved myself $22. Broke the wheelbarrow handle with my car and bought a replacement. The new one is much larger and would have to have the strong side horizontal. Also I’d have to take apart the whole thing to fix.
The right way woulda been to buy two so it looked and felt right. But I didn’t wanna spend almost $50 on this POS.
Decided to fab up a bolt on handle.
Found the perfect piece of scrap with its previous mistakes. And a scrap chinesium angle from some old bed frame.
Cut the angle, heated with map gas to loosen the paint on it, wire brushed until metal was clean, welded it up and bolted it in.
Way easier and faster I think than taking all the crap out the wheelbarrow, taking it apart, blah blah. Now to go and get my $22 back.
That’s two projects for the day off so far, got more but I’m running out of “spoons” fast.
The right way woulda been to buy two so it looked and felt right. But I didn’t wanna spend almost $50 on this POS.
Decided to fab up a bolt on handle.
Found the perfect piece of scrap with its previous mistakes. And a scrap chinesium angle from some old bed frame.
Cut the angle, heated with map gas to loosen the paint on it, wire brushed until metal was clean, welded it up and bolted it in.
Way easier and faster I think than taking all the crap out the wheelbarrow, taking it apart, blah blah. Now to go and get my $22 back.
That’s two projects for the day off so far, got more but I’m running out of “spoons” fast.