72V 100A 60Ah 4.3kWh 10s24p 200lbs.....

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miked826

miked826

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Jayls5 said:
Too far away to identify, but based on your description they are either Cree XRE or XPG.

Weigh out that lead acid battery and consider if you want to remove all of that weight minus 1 pound. Although more expensive, it's really not all that bad to upgrade, and LIPO don't really degrade quickly either.
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It is the brightest 9W of light that I have ever seen and I'm not new to CREE either.

Whether my lights are powered by an $8 auxiliary sealed lead acid, primary LiPo or a wind turbine strapped to my helmet, it just not high up on my "To Do" list.......at this time since the cheap sealed battery I have now works fine. LOL
 
miked826

miked826

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biknut said:
I really like having all my LEDs powered by my main Battery. Power consumption is less than 1/2 amp. When you're already carrying a giant battery, why not utilize it, instead of having an axillary battery to have to charge separately?
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You don't really have any say in the matter Biknut on your bike. Storage space for anything is at a very high premium on your bike in comparison to the 2 suitcases and horizontal luggage rack I have on the back of my bike. laff
 
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biknut

biknut

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miked826 said:
You don't really have any say in the matter Biknut on your bike. Storage space for anything is at a very high premium on your bike in comparison to the 2 suitcases and horizontal luggage rack I have on the back of my bike. laff
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That's true, your bike is like a 18 wheeler lol. Still I laugh at the factory Stealth headlight which uses an external battery pack held on with Velcro, for only $200.
 
miked826

miked826

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biknut said:
That's true, your bike is like a 18 wheeler lol. Still I laugh at the factory Stealth headlight which uses an external battery pack held on with Velcro, for only $200.
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Yeah 12V anything is an after thought on the Bomber as it is with all other ebikes. Easily fixed with a DC/DC step down converter though and it's small and costs hardly anything. They just leave it up to you to see in the dark like regular bike makers do. LOL
 
Goat Herder

Goat Herder

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miked826 said:
Yeah 12V anything is an after thought on the Bomber as it is with all other ebikes. Easily fixed with a DC/DC step down converter though and it's small and costs hardly anything. They just leave it up to you to see in the dark like regular bike makers do. LOL
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A little read around and a trip to Radio Shack can fix this. Make a custom step down. Never really made one I studied the circuits on stuff I have torn down. Sure there is a formula for it.

Jayls5 said:
Drove the Sandrail today for the first time! Half the pack size (2.33 kWh), 1300+ pounds, and this thing is still hauling ass. 300A (10C) for the test runs.

1st gear acceleration with passenger:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_WM_FlIFLM
2nd gear acceleration with passenger:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2k1DXhj5yI

Cells are keeping a decent balance between charging so far!
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Sweet ride! Looks like it runs great. Looking forward to your input on it!
 
miked826

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J

Jayls5

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miked826 said:
Are you parallel balancing those batteries or individually balancing them?
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In order to have passive balancers like I do, they must all be paralleled cells. That, or I would have to have 60 balancing boards to do each one individually... no thanks lol.
 
miked826

miked826

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Where have I been? Well.......

I forgot to add a resistor to the throttle and so the motor stuck at about 3500RPM while I thumbed through the tabs on the controller software on my laptop until I got to a Tab called "Test". When I clicked that tab the motor came to a complete immediate stop and what sounded like the Hall Sensors inside the motor gave way and I had some smoke and grinding noise coming from inside the motor. No more motor after that. LMAO
 
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Intrepid Wheelwoman

Intrepid Wheelwoman

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Oh no! - you let the magic smoke out :eek: That's why it isn't going anymore.

Hall sensors are supposed to be reasonably straight forward to replace, - or so I've been told. I have an old crystalite here that needs overhauling, but I haven't got a round to it yet so I can't really offer any more advice than that.
 

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miked826

miked826

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Intrepid Wheelwoman said:
Oh no! - you let the magic smoke out :eek: That's why it isn't going anymore.

Hall sensors are supposed to be reasonably straight forward to replace, - or so I've been told. I have an old crystalite here that needs overhauling, but I haven't got a round to it yet so I can't really offer any more advice than that.
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Because of the magnets, disassembly/reassembly of the motor is an absolute nightmare though.
 
Intrepid Wheelwoman

Intrepid Wheelwoman

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Rats, - I didn't realise that you had blown up a motor and not a hub motor wheel. I haven't had any experience with working on a electric bike motor before so I really don't know if you can use the same methods to dismantle one.

Sorry about that :oops: :confused:
 
miked826

miked826

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Intrepid Wheelwoman said:
Rats, - I didn't realise that you had blown up a motor and not a hub motor wheel. I haven't had any experience with working on a electric bike motor before so I really don't know if you can use the same methods to dismantle one.

Sorry about that :oops: :confused:
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I have had both hub and non-hub. The non-hub motor that I have is an outright nightmare to disassemble with simple hand tools. I know if was managed to disassemble it that I would never get it back together with those magnets grabbing.
 
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