Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

[Wickedest1]

story to tip:

I have a small shaft on my fd bike, and needed a larger surface area to push against, so with the shaft being so small, I took the shaft collar I needed, found its o.d. and bought another collar with the i.d. equivalent to the o.d. of the needed one, but take it to your grinder opposite the set screw and make a small flat surface for the outer collar to lock onto

tip:

stacking shaft collars to equate a larger surface area, by grinding a flat on the smaller to lock the larger in place.

oh and p.s. when you need something that screws together to stay together, there is no such thing as too much Loctite.

 

[Wickedest1]

need a pillow block bearing with a small size id bearing but cant find them?

yea me too...

so im sitting here and it hits me,

skateboard wheel sandwiched between a conduit clamp and a piece of flat stock steel, shave a flat onto the skateboard wheel, drill a hole in top of conduit clamp, flat part of wheel down on stock, clamp over top, screw through top of clamp into skate wheel...

bing, done

thanks for looking

 

[GearNut]

Now that right there is an awesome idea!
One can get bearings for those that can spin crazy fast and support very impressive loads, considering their size. The wheel will also absorb vibrations too. Alot of them are made of polyurethane.

 

[maniac57]

Here's a tip for the welders out there.


Be sure where your ground cable is when welding on your bikes. This rear brake cable was melted in about five seconds when I struck an arc on the frame with the ground clamp on the swingarm, The current took the cable as the ground path and instantly roasted it!
Always ground close to your weld!

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Path of least resistance or something? Looks like black liquorish.

Mostly I thought of was removal all together of fuel tank.

I have left the engine on the frame and it has oil in it and did welding a few times when it was about 2 feet from engine.

I have always put the ground clamp just inches from the weld area. Then I also take a large piece of steel sheet and put it as a barrier to stop sparks from getting on engine.

MT

 

[wret]

Tube bending

I've seen where others have had trouble kinking or crushing the tubing when making a sharp bend, even when filling the tube with sand. My solution was to shove a tight fitting hardwood dowel into the tube at the site of the bend. Worked like a charm.

 

[maniac57]

Re: Tube bending

I've seen where others have had trouble kinking or crushing the tubing when making a sharp bend, even when filling the tube with sand. My solution was to shove a tight fitting hardwood dowel into the tube at the site of the bend. Worked like a charm.

Another good way is to cap the ends, fill it with water, and freeze it.
Once it's frozen, it will bend without kinking much better.
The problem with sand is you have to keep it sealed to work. Once water freezes, capping is no longer needed as the ice holds itself in, unlike sand which will move under pressure.
Even better, fill it with sand, then wet and freeze it.

 

[maniac57]

Here's a tip for anyone needing a shoulder bolt to properly mount a skateboard wheel as a chain idler or guide.
The allen head button capscrews used for holding V-brakes arms and also for bolting the shock in to cheap full suspension bikes.
The shock bolt and capscrew is exactly the right length to fit a skateboard wheel to a flat surface perfectly with two washers. This prevents the bearings from crushing into the soft wheel when tightened and is mandatory for this style idler to work.
Plus they are everywhere in junkyards and partsbins.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I found this ehow on how to use my rear wheel from a coaster brake type kids bike wheel.

I was needing two 10 inch diameter inflatable tires to use as big training wheels on the motor bike meant for trail riding, to temporarily convert for parade use as a California Sheepshead Fish.

I will have to go under 5mph and still keep balance. With a metal sketon frame and a fabric cover, it may get damage or myself hurt if it were to fall over, so training wheels as it putts along is my answer.

I have to see what washers are necessary to fill some gap left when removing some parts like the shoes to do the conversion so I have the equivalent of two front free wheels.

Attached picture has engine and gas tank removed as required when I recently welded parts on frame. Extra handle bars are temporarily in place. Trail riding it is best to not use ape hangers.

http://www.ehow.com/how_8756581_convert-beach-cruiser-freewheel.html

MT

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=17

The build continuing

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=53832

Trail riding and out on USDA Forest Service Roads where Lic. OHV OK'ed

 

[turnofftheradio]

I have a tip for a quiet exhaust. I just drilled a bunch of holes to perforate the long pipe inside the muffler, then wrapped it loosely with some left over FMF 2 stroke packing, then stuck it back in. HUGE reduction in noise. The bag I had did a few motorcycles, and still has enough for 5 bicycles. Its smiles instead of dirty looks now.

 

[wret]

Spoke Puller

I needed to re-lace my rear wheel to correct an oversight involving the spokes overlapping the sprocket mounting holes. I was dreading it because the spokes are a little on the short side and getting the nipples to grab requires super-human strength and three hands, or....

Google "spoke puller" and you get "Did you mean SPIKE puller?"

For about $7 I put together this little number. It's a cheap mini locking plier with the pivot rivet drilled out and screwed to a bar clamp. It's not perfect, as it doesn't take into account the angle which the spoke meets the rim but it did the job.

 

[CTripps]

Good solution, Wret, clever work-around.. I'll remember it if I need it down the road.

 

[Lightning Boy]

Not sure if this has been suggested yet, but I haven't seen it anywhere:

If the wiring of your engine, lights, etc. has been damaged or covered, label the wires with painter's/masking tape and a sharpie. It will save a lot of guesswork when replacing or refitting them to their proper places.

(Just recommended it to a friend and fellow forum member for his singed wires, and figured some one else may need this method later.)

 

[greaser_monkey_87]

I haven't made the modification for it yet, but I just realized you can use a motorcycle chain tensioner/axle adjuster on a frame with semi-horizontal dropouts by simply facing the rear of the dropout so it's flat instead of angled. You can use an angle grinder or a hand file and grind or file until the dropout is flat, and then you can use any axle adjuster, be it motorcycle or bicycle. I happen to have a motorcycle type laying around. You can face both dropouts and use two adjusters, but I think just the drive side would be sufficient to prevent the motor from torquing the wheel to one side. I always use a wratchet wrench to tighten my axle nuts, so I don't see a concern with the pedal side coming loose.

 

[Rich909]

Kickstand stabilizer / workstand tip:

kickstand tip:
<snip>
I got rid of my old steel kickstand (it was too short anyway) and bought an aluminum "two legger" that mounts in the same place (couldn't tell you the brand but it's shaped like an upside down "Y"). My bike store had it laying around for about 20 bucks. It weighs about the same as the old one did, maybe even less, and the bike stands up straight when parked so it takes up less space.
The best thing about it though is that it holds the back wheel just off the ground which makes it a great work stand for adjusting the drive train.

I agree. A center "two legger" does make M-B drive train servicing much easier. The kickstand I have (see: http://www.bikeberry.com/bicycles/accessories/kickstands/center-kick-stand.html) still required me to be careful to avoid upsetting the balance knocking the bike over with the wheel off for example.

After thinking about this for a while I made a "stabilizer" using some angle iron to fit the kickstand dimensions that I attached to a 4" x 4" x 2 to 3' post. This fixture captures the kickstand legs and locks them in place with cross-bolts. The post lifts the rear tire 4" and the 2+' length makes it practically impossible to accidentally bump the bike under repair knocking it over. It also allows the bike to be rotated, once on the stabilizer to put the rear wheel down and lift the front for service. It can also be used to help stabilize the bike during transport in a truck bed. In my own experience it is quick and easy to lift the rear wheel with the kick stand down and place the legs into the stabilizer.

Dimsnsions are not critical, just measure the spread of the kickstand legs and their width. If you use an elevated work table, you can set the width of the 4"x4" post to suit the table width.

I've attached some photos of it in use on my bike to help explain the stabilizer concept.

--Rich

 

[Nghtrider62]

If you have a problem with dogs chasing you- eventually they get old and bored and leave you alone...if they are smart.
For those dogs not born with brains:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y34/Nightrider1962/IMAG0382_zps8301c10e.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y34/Nightrider1962/IMAG0381_zps0b7021ef.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y34/Nightrider1962/IMAG0379_zps1c58770b.jpg
cost me 34.95 online No license required recharges in the wall socket, Excellent Flashlight, Even Better "Zap" Deterrent. Haven't had a problem with the neighbors Dog anymore. !!! He got 1 time to close to my leg and now he runs the opposite direction every time he see's me. 1 sec stun 5 minutes on the ground wondering what Mack truck just hit you. 2 second burst 5-10 minutes getting your brain back in gear, and the wetness from between your legs. 3 second burst, paralyzed . Any more then that you can melt the tips off it.

 

[crassius]

pedaling a paper route in the 50s, I found a water pistol full of turpentine worked well and at a greater distance

 

[BarelyAWake]

Not sure if this has been suggested yet, but I haven't seen it anywhere:

If the wiring of your engine, lights, etc. has been damaged or covered, label the wires with painter's/masking tape and a sharpie. It will save a lot of guesswork when replacing or refitting them to their proper places.

(Just recommended it to a friend and fellow forum member for his singed wires, and figured some one else may need this method later.)

Defo a good tip! If careful, you can "roll" the tape around the wire, labeled with a fine point sharpie & it's tidy enough it'll slip under the shrink wrap/conduit/housing & last a very long time, protected from the dirt, chafe & the elements;



...which comes in dang handy if you ever find yourself here again lol;



Another wiring lifesaver that's not as commonly found as it could be is what's called a "third hand/helping hand" tool to aid proper soldering: http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/



...if you've not got one, get one (or make one ofc) - trust me it'll be one of the best $10 ya ever spent lol

 

[curtisfox]

Not sure if this has been suggested yet, but I haven't seen it anywhere:

If the wiring of your engine, lights, etc. has been damaged or covered, label the wires with painter's/masking tape and a sharpie. It will save a lot of guesswork when replacing or refitting them to their proper places.

(Just recommended it to a friend and fellow forum member for his singed wires, and figured some one else may need this method later.)

you can also get little stick on tabs in the electrical dept. at home centers,come in a little booklet numbers or letters, a hole bunch for little or nothing...................Curt

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

http://www.oldengine.org/members/mur...20Handbook.pdf

This pdf I found has a great amount of information on Briggs Engines.

I've been looking to find information on valve tappet to bottom of valve clearance specification. Chapter 4 on compression has what I needed.