hey i was wondering can you ride a motorized bike with no chain tentioner? i tried it & it did ride with no problem but i stop because i was worried about something happening. Any ideals?
No Chain Tensioner!!
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Re: No Chain Tentioner!!
Yeah, a lot of people run without a tensioner by cutting off just the right amount of chain so it fits perfect, You can even buy a half link if needed to get the size just right.
Yeah, a lot of people run without a tensioner by cutting off just the right amount of chain so it fits perfect, You can even buy a half link if needed to get the size just right.
Re: No Chain Tentioner!!
You still need to have the chain slack correct, you can't just ride with slop.
One easy way is by shimming the rear mount block to adjust length.
I dislike half links, but many people use them as well.
You still need to have the chain slack correct, you can't just ride with slop.
One easy way is by shimming the rear mount block to adjust length.
I dislike half links, but many people use them as well.
Re: No Chain Tentioner!!
i tried it today & it ran fine i was thinking about switching from #415 to #41 chain if im gonna try that. what do yall think
i tried it today & it ran fine i was thinking about switching from #415 to #41 chain if im gonna try that. what do yall think
Re: No Chain Tentioner!!
#41 is far superior to the kit supplied #415.
Yes, you can safely run without a tensioner but as Maniac said you still have to maintain proper chain tension. 1/2" to 3/4" of slack.
The problem usually comes with vertical dropouts that don't allow adjustment and keeping proper tension on the pedal chain.
Tom
#41 is far superior to the kit supplied #415.
Yes, you can safely run without a tensioner but as Maniac said you still have to maintain proper chain tension. 1/2" to 3/4" of slack.
The problem usually comes with vertical dropouts that don't allow adjustment and keeping proper tension on the pedal chain.
Tom
Re: No Chain Tentioner!!
rode my first build with no tentioner for a year with zero problems
just be shure that the chain is the propper length to be the right tention when the wheel is in place and fine adjustmants can be made by sliding the wheel back or foward on the rear tire axle mounts.
i actually feel this is a lot safer than the insanly dangerouse tentioner they give you !!!!
rode my first build with no tentioner for a year with zero problems
just be shure that the chain is the propper length to be the right tention when the wheel is in place and fine adjustmants can be made by sliding the wheel back or foward on the rear tire axle mounts.
i actually feel this is a lot safer than the insanly dangerouse tentioner they give you !!!!
Re: No Chain Tentioner!!
You don't really need a chain "tensioner" at all if:
1) you can adjust your drive chain (and pedal chain) to just the right length and still be able to slide the rear wheel forward or back to get the right amount of slack. And...
2) your drive chain, once it's been adjusted properly, does not chew into your left-side chain stay like a chain saw on a tree. If no matter how you adjust things, you find your drive chain is still smacking or rubbing on the chain stay, you'll need a "tensioner" (I prefer to call them "chain guides" because that's all mine does.)
You don't really need a chain "tensioner" at all if:
1) you can adjust your drive chain (and pedal chain) to just the right length and still be able to slide the rear wheel forward or back to get the right amount of slack. And...
2) your drive chain, once it's been adjusted properly, does not chew into your left-side chain stay like a chain saw on a tree. If no matter how you adjust things, you find your drive chain is still smacking or rubbing on the chain stay, you'll need a "tensioner" (I prefer to call them "chain guides" because that's all mine does.)
Re: No Chain Tentioner!!
yeah im going to use the #41 chain. since its smaller then the 415 heavy chain.
yeah im going to use the #41 chain. since its smaller then the 415 heavy chain.
It really is easier to tension the pedal chain, if you don't want to match them up-
and if you use a derailleur for pedal side tensioning, you have some options for pedalling-
they put out some light 3 cog freewheels now too
and if you use a derailleur for pedal side tensioning, you have some options for pedalling-
they put out some light 3 cog freewheels now too
I have the stock 415 chain, this bike came as a basket case... yep. Anyway I have the chain just right but cannot link with the rear axle in the slot and with the chain linked I am about 3mm from dropping the axle shaft into the stock rear frame slot. This is an EZip mountain bike; Multi speed on opposite sprocket. Thinking about shaving the rear axle slot in the frame to allow the shaft to drop in easily. Any one have problems with the axle's shifting due to wear/modification front rear play ? I believe the chain is going to stretch a bit anyway. Do not want to use the "roller" Thoughts?
Thanks
Thanks
Indeed.
No drive side tensioner like a motorcycle is best, but it's a hassle to maintain.
Like a motorcycle you have to loosen the back wheel and pull it back to re-tension the drive chain, but unlike a motorcycle you have a pedal chain to contend with if it's not a derailleur type with it's own tensioner AND horizontal dropouts.
To answer you question no tensioner is best if you can pull it off and forget 41 chain, as long as your rear drive sprocket is properly aligned you are good to go.
I'm curious KC. Why you say to "forget #41 chain". It is far superior to the Chinese 415 that comes in the kits. If made by a good company, Diamond, Browning, etc. the #41 is precision made with no kinks, twists or binding rollers/side plates. They are not pre-stretched which requires many more initial adjustments to maintain tension than the #41 counterparts.
Yes, I've found a couple of decent kit chains but the majority are not up to the standards we need.
The differenc in size is negligible so there should be no interference anywhere. The kit chain and the spark plug boots are the two things that never get used on my bikes.
Tom
Yes, I've found a couple of decent kit chains but the majority are not up to the standards we need.
The differenc in size is negligible so there should be no interference anywhere. The kit chain and the spark plug boots are the two things that never get used on my bikes.
Tom
The 415 I get in GT5 kits is dandy and these will even run HD 410 with the right sprockets, I just find the slightly wider 41 to be a pain in the a$$ to work with, especially on chain breakers.
Ya 41 works on 415 sprockets, I just find 415 chain works better and to snap it you have some serious drive train issues to fix before you you think about new chain.
Based on what you and others have said I'm beginning to think that this 415 chain size is as nebulous as carburetor jet sizes.
Maybe I will take a few minutes, take some photos and either post them here or do a new thread on chain comparisons. I'll show #41 side by side with kit #415 chain and take some measurements. I don't believe the difference is that much.
LOL, maybe the reason the chain breakers work better on 415 is because they aren't made as well as #41
Tom
EDIT: Instead of highjacking this thread anymore I put up some photos in this old thread. last page > http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=570359#post570359
Maybe I will take a few minutes, take some photos and either post them here or do a new thread on chain comparisons. I'll show #41 side by side with kit #415 chain and take some measurements. I don't believe the difference is that much.
LOL, maybe the reason the chain breakers work better on 415 is because they aren't made as well as #41
Tom
EDIT: Instead of highjacking this thread anymore I put up some photos in this old thread. last page > http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=570359#post570359
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Re: No Chain Tentioner!!
I did away with the chain tensioner by putting a half-link in the peddle chain and removing whatever from the drive chain,
It worked out just right to give me good slot at the axle.
I have a China Girl, or whatever you call them in polite company. (Gru Bee, I think)
I did away with the chain tensioner by putting a half-link in the peddle chain and removing whatever from the drive chain,
It worked out just right to give me good slot at the axle.