Resistance while clutch is pulled

[Greg58]

Yes that sounds good, be sure to let everyone here on the forum know if you find the answer. I haven't had anything like that happen.(yet!)

 

[2door]

If I start the engine, elevate the back wheel, and pull the clutch, the motor ticks along nicely, but the back wheel does not move at all. I hope that goes some way to explain how the clutch is being operated correctly by the clutch lever.

If that is the case then your clutch cable is adjusted correctly and everything is operating as it should be. I don't see any problems except what you've already described and that is the reistance normally seen/felt.

My suggestion? Go ride you bike and enjoy it. I don't believe you have a problem.

Thanks for keeping us updated on your findings. It helps us to help you.

Tom

 

[Greg58]

Tom, have you ever heard of a engine that would slide the tire with the clutch pulled as this one does?

 

[Sylph]

My suggestion? Go ride you bike and enjoy it. I don't believe you have a problem

Yeah, thankyou! As I said back on page 1, I'm satisfied that's it's fairly normal and my mind is at rest about the issue.

(re: sliding the tyre... Only happens on gravel or dirt, not solid ground)

 

[maniac57]

If this is a brand new build, your chain may be binding in the clutch cover from chain clearance issues, especially if you used an aftermarket chain.
Here's a link: http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=480220

 

[2door]

Tom, have you ever heard of a engine that would slide the tire with the clutch pulled as this one does?

Greg,
Judging from her post #20, that's not the case. Am I confused?

Tom

EDIT: Okay I went back and saw where she said the wheel slides but in gravel. If everything else is working as described above then there's a good chance the chain in bunching up on the drive sprocket occasionally.

 

[Matheneyr3]

Bearings okay in the rear tire ?

 

[maniac57]

If the chain is not binding in the case and the wheel stays stationary when lifted off the ground with the clutch pulled yet sometime slides on gravel, then it has to be a rear wheel or chain issue. Something is creating drag. Normal chain drag is nowhere near strong enough to drag the wheel in gravel.

 

[Sylph]

Bearings okay in the rear tire ?

Yep! If I remove the master link and take the chain off completely, the bike can be pedaled with ease.

maniac57: Thanks for the link about the chain rubbing. I'd read about that before, but forgot to check, and it might well be a factor. I'll have a look...

 

[Longhaulin]

I have a couple bikes both with grubee 66cc 2 stroke motors, one rolls fine and the other has this problem you describe with the drag/friction when clutch lever is pulled in. Said motor has 3000 miles, a while ago I opened the left side where the bar and bearing are; well the bearing was smashed/crushed to 2/3 or 3/4 its original width... I found a slightly longer bar than the one that was in there and this alleviated the problem of drag. I didn't have a replacement bearing so that crushed one is still in there, it may come out with a thin magnet but I haven't a magnet to fit in there. I know they have them at harbor freight but funds are tight even for a $2.59 magnet as such for my tool bag! The bike has drag when clutch handle is pulled in and the button is pushed down to hold it in place, however if it is pulled in tight up against the handle, holding it by hand which gets tiring, it rolls easy Instead of holding it by hand one could wrap a small rope around it a few times... The other bike does not have this issue.

i've also had to adjust the cable numerous times because I found that pedaling with the drag and not having the clutch lever pulled tight against the handlebar, made the cable loosen up and drag was there even with clutch lever pulled all the way in. I replaced the cable to the same effect but the bike is better than the last few months now that I know to hold it in tight when I want to pedal. Running with original clutch pads.

 

[Nashville Kat]

415 Industrial/Trike chain- here it is:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kmc-3-16in-...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e09ec1f9

the best thing you can do to get a better pedal, whether there's another problem or not-

440 grams

compared to 800 grams weight of KMC standard 415 chain

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KMC-K415H-3...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c805eba38

If you're thinking about running a smaller 410 chain-
the Trike chain is about the same weight and rolling resistence
but with more margin of error
and fits on standard kit sprockets

 

[mapbike]

Thats a good price on that chain NashKat, I like that its lighter weight as long as it will hold up good, I run KMC chain on all my bikes and it has always gave me great service.
I didnt catch how many links it is per chain but I assume its like most 98Links
Map

 

[maniac57]

I have a couple bikes both with grubee 66cc 2 stroke motors, one rolls fine and the other has this problem you describe with the drag/friction when clutch lever is pulled in. Said motor has 3000 miles, a while ago I opened the left side where the bar and bearing are; well the bearing was smashed/crushed to 2/3 or 3/4 its original width... I found a slightly longer bar than the one that was in there and this alleviated the problem of drag. I didn't have a replacement bearing so that crushed one is still in there, it may come out with a thin magnet but I haven't a magnet to fit in there. I know they have them at harbor freight but funds are tight even for a $2.59 magnet as such for my tool bag! The bike has drag when clutch handle is pulled in and the button is pushed down to hold it in place, however if it is pulled in tight up against the handle, holding it by hand which gets tiring, it rolls easy Instead of holding it by hand one could wrap a small rope around it a few times... The other bike does not have this issue.

i've also had to adjust the cable numerous times because I found that pedaling with the drag and not having the clutch lever pulled tight against the handlebar, made the cable loosen up and drag was there even with clutch lever pulled all the way in. I replaced the cable to the same effect but the bike is better than the last few months now that I know to hold it in tight when I want to pedal. Running with original clutch pads.

I'd get that bearing out of the clutch shaft while you still have a chance. If it gets mashed badly enough, you will never get it out without splitting the case and dis-assembling the entire shaft IF it will come out.
If it's held by grease, the best way to retrieve it is to rinse the hole with some solvent to cut the grease and lay it over so gravity and a few sharp raps on the opposite end of the shaft can work it free.
I usually use lighter fluid for this. Might need several rinsings and a brush or something to swish the grease free.
Once that ball gets squashed enough, it will jam in the hole (if it's not already)
Replacing the bar to take up wear is truly not a good way to handle this issue.

 

[Ferret]

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but are there quick-disconnects for 415 chain? Not a normal master link - a tool-less one like they make for bike chains. I can't find one? Would a 6 -speed link work?

 

[crassius]

a house key across the two points and a rap with a knuckle on the key seems quick enough for me

 

[Southpark247]

Hi folks,
I've been riding my motor bicycle for a few months now, and while I really enjoy it, there's one thing which is bothering me. It's bothering me specifically because I don't see other people on these forums talking about it.

The problem is the freewheel while I'm pulling the clutch. It's awful.

I've ridden motorbikes for years, so I'm completely familiar with the HUGE difference between a neutral gear, and just holding the clutch in. That is, I expected significant resistance when I had the engine completely off, and the peg in the clutch lever. I *can* ride the bike 'without engine' in this manner, but it's a *lot* harder. Like a brake is constantly slightly on.

I know the first replies will probably be trying to establish whether my clutch is properly adjusted, so I want to pre-empt that and say that I've tried adjusting the clutch loads of times. I think I have it just about perfect now, but whatever I try (even ridiculously tight so that it's completely engaged even when not being pulled!), I still get this resistance.
Also, I can pull the clutch and have the engine idle perfectly while the bike is standing still.

As I said, I expected the bike to be a lot harder to pedal, because I'm turning a tight chain attached to a small sprocket in the engine, but the resistance *is* a little higher than I even expected, and I'm wondering whether this issue can be fixed since I've seen nobody else here comment on it. In fact, I read people saying things like:

Which is so totally different to my experience.

Can anyone offer any insight into this? Is your bike noticeably harder to pedal when you fully pull the clutch and aren't using the engine?

You will have to separate the Crank and losen the clutch sping a little bit. It seems like it is a little bit to tight which will cause a stiff clutch lever. It sucks because you have to practically tear the whole motor down. I don't think you can get to it with a very small punch or something but you may be able to see it from were your cable connection is at the motor.

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

oh yes.... another ancient thread (from 2014) brought back from the dead by a newbie...

What's going on here?!?