Voiturette à pédales à fabriquer
- Thread starter Intrepid Wheelwoman
- Start date
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
You never know. If you have a recycling center near by there is an unending supply of cardboard and paper... looks like a great way to get curved surfaces. Might be fun, too.
SB
Sure does and can't wait to see what glue and all the good info. Thanks IW.......Curt
wheelbender6
Well-Known Member
"Wow. Front wheel drive and steering."
At second glance, I think it is a rear steer car.
At second glance, I think it is a rear steer car.
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
That's what I was trying to figure out. I think you're right that it is steered by the rear wheel.
SB
Otero
Member
Wheela,
There is a technique used in making skin-on-frame
kayaks where nylon is sewn onto the frame and then
shrunk
with a heat gun or hair dryer. the site belongs
to Bryan something? I think you can find it under:
Cape Falcon Kayaks. Once the nylon is snug, it's coated
with resin. With such a process, the paper layers would
be unnecessary and lighter as well. If nothing else, it's
a very interesting site with lots of pics of trips as well as
kayak building.
There is a technique used in making skin-on-frame
kayaks where nylon is sewn onto the frame and then
shrunk
with a heat gun or hair dryer. the site belongsto Bryan something? I think you can find it under:
Cape Falcon Kayaks. Once the nylon is snug, it's coated
with resin. With such a process, the paper layers would
be unnecessary and lighter as well. If nothing else, it's
a very interesting site with lots of pics of trips as well as
kayak building.
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silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Wheela,
There is a technique used in making skin-on-frame
kayaks where nylon is sewn onto the frame and then
shrunk
to Bryan something? I think you can find it under:
Cape Falcon Kayaks. Once the nylon is snug, it's coated
with resin. With such a process, the paper layers would
be unnecessary and lighter as well. If nothing else, it's
a very interesting site with lots of pics of trips as well as
kayak building.
An advantage to the paper and cardboard approach would be that you could sculpt the shape by adding layers where you want it built out more. Which approach is best would depend on the shape you wanted. Compound curves might be a real challenge to build the underlying form for.
SB
When I was a little guy, eight or nine years old my Dad built me a race car powered by the starter motor from an old Ford and a 6 volt car battery. He made the body, it resembled a midget racer style, by forming the shape with chicken wire then layers of newspaper soaked in a mixture of starch and water. When it was dry he painted on several coats of red and white enamel. It came out shiny and smooth. The darn thing was durable too. Took lots of abuse.
Since then I've used the chicken wire method on several projects. One is the center dash and console in my hot rod. I used fiberglass mat and cloth and resin instead of newspaper and starch but the concept is the same. You can bend and form the chicken wire to any imaginable shape then laminate it with your material of choice.
A custom car body would be a snap to build and you could achieve intricate compound curves with no problem.
Tom
Since then I've used the chicken wire method on several projects. One is the center dash and console in my hot rod. I used fiberglass mat and cloth and resin instead of newspaper and starch but the concept is the same. You can bend and form the chicken wire to any imaginable shape then laminate it with your material of choice.
A custom car body would be a snap to build and you could achieve intricate compound curves with no problem.
Tom
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Tom,
I can see how chicken wire would work well and would eliminate a complicated wooden form
underneath. Can't say that I enjoy working with fiberglass, but it is strong stuff. Depending on the resin used with the cardboard and paper that might be strong, too. And might be just as much a mess to work with as the fiberglass resins. Ha!
SB
I can see how chicken wire would work well and would eliminate a complicated wooden form
underneath. Can't say that I enjoy working with fiberglass, but it is strong stuff. Depending on the resin used with the cardboard and paper that might be strong, too. And might be just as much a mess to work with as the fiberglass resins. Ha!
SB
Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
I have a feeling that the French instructions call for the use of a starch glue. If seriously good coats of enamel paint were laid over the finished bodyshell it should survive the odd sprinkle of rain just fine.
Tom, your own experiences with the car your Dad made for you just go to show how durable a paper bodied car can be. Modern builders who use paper often substitute PVA white glue for starch which would be an improvement over the original method.
Having used resin with cardboard myself when I was younger I know it makes for a strong and waterproof construction, - only I would never want to use the stuff again as it's foul to use and it gave me a lovely rash.
Tom, your own experiences with the car your Dad made for you just go to show how durable a paper bodied car can be. Modern builders who use paper often substitute PVA white glue for starch which would be an improvement over the original method.
Having used resin with cardboard myself when I was younger I know it makes for a strong and waterproof construction, - only I would never want to use the stuff again as it's foul to use and it gave me a lovely rash.
You know, after reading my post above I realized that I said "chicken wire". That was wrong. It is actually rabbit wire. The weave makes for 1/4" squares, not the big stuff with 1" holes. Rabbit wire is often used to make the floor of rabbit cages, is stiffer and stronger than chicken wire.
Later I'll scan a couple of photos of a project I did using this method.
Sorry about the confusion.
Tom
Later I'll scan a couple of photos of a project I did using this method.
Sorry about the confusion.
Tom
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
In my part of the world it is called "hardware cloth" which always struck me as a dumb name for wire fencing. Yes. that would work lots better than chicken wire I use it for making minnow traps and fish live boxes. Stiff stuff.
SB
SB
He! He! I always thought paper mache was flour and water so did a surch and it is made with both. While i was at it i gatherd these recipes...Last one is cornstach...........Curt
http://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-recipes
http://www.dltk-kids.com/type/how_to_paper_mache.htm
Instructions:
To make this paste, simply mix together 1 part flour to 2 parts water. Pour the flour and water in a large bowl and stir it well. Keep mixing until there are very few lumps left. You want it to be runny like a white glue, not thick like paste. Add more water or flour as necessary.
A few helpful tips I have read in regards to using this paste are:
If you live in an area with high humidity, add a few tablespoons of salt to help prevent mold.
If you don't like the smell of the glue mixture you can add a few sprinkles of cinnamon to sweeten it up!
You should be able to store this glue in a covered bowl or jar, in the refrigerator, for a few days.
More About Paper Mache
http://www.sjs-meriden.org/papermache.htm
http://www.dreamalittlebigger.com/post/gluten-free-paper-mache-paste-making-a-pinata-part-1.html
http://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-recipes
http://www.dltk-kids.com/type/how_to_paper_mache.htm
Instructions:
To make this paste, simply mix together 1 part flour to 2 parts water. Pour the flour and water in a large bowl and stir it well. Keep mixing until there are very few lumps left. You want it to be runny like a white glue, not thick like paste. Add more water or flour as necessary.
A few helpful tips I have read in regards to using this paste are:
If you live in an area with high humidity, add a few tablespoons of salt to help prevent mold.
If you don't like the smell of the glue mixture you can add a few sprinkles of cinnamon to sweeten it up!
You should be able to store this glue in a covered bowl or jar, in the refrigerator, for a few days.
More About Paper Mache
http://www.sjs-meriden.org/papermache.htm
http://www.dreamalittlebigger.com/post/gluten-free-paper-mache-paste-making-a-pinata-part-1.html
Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
I'm still working on translating the article and I should have a reasonably readable copy to post here in a couple of days. From the rough copy the article says that only a cold carpenter's glue should be used, - meaning no old fashioned hot glues made from boiling up animal hooves & etc should be used. Despite pouring over the article and sometimes using Google Translate for additional help I can't find any further mention of what exactly this glue is or how it's made.
My rusty French made me think that the paper layers are laid over rayon, - an early synthetic fabric, - but they're not. A light framework of wooden rods, or laths is used to support the paper layers instead. The car bodyshell is built on a support frame of plywood (I will post the diagrams soon) which supports these laths. This isn't a paper mache bodyshell by the way the article clearly describes layering kraft paper well covered with brushed on glue over the wooden laths.
Just as a side note I don't see why rabbit netting couldn't be used as the article says that the finished bodyshell doesn't actually depend on the framework of lightweight laths for its strength.
Once everything is laid up the car body has to be left for eight days to set off. After that it can be sanded down and prepared for painting in much the usual way. Fine sawdust mixed with glue is recommended as a filler. The finished bodyshell needs to be painted inside and out to make it properly weatherproof and the article concludes by saying that these methods can be even used to make a boat hull, - so it looks like they're saying that this isn't a fine weather only car bodyshell by any means.
As to the starch glue thing I'd still like to give that a shot with building a laminated paper bodyshell. It would have to be way cheaper than PVA for a start and wouldn't cost me anything save for my time.
My rusty French made me think that the paper layers are laid over rayon, - an early synthetic fabric, - but they're not. A light framework of wooden rods, or laths is used to support the paper layers instead. The car bodyshell is built on a support frame of plywood (I will post the diagrams soon) which supports these laths. This isn't a paper mache bodyshell by the way the article clearly describes layering kraft paper well covered with brushed on glue over the wooden laths.
Just as a side note I don't see why rabbit netting couldn't be used as the article says that the finished bodyshell doesn't actually depend on the framework of lightweight laths for its strength.
Once everything is laid up the car body has to be left for eight days to set off. After that it can be sanded down and prepared for painting in much the usual way. Fine sawdust mixed with glue is recommended as a filler. The finished bodyshell needs to be painted inside and out to make it properly weatherproof and the article concludes by saying that these methods can be even used to make a boat hull, - so it looks like they're saying that this isn't a fine weather only car bodyshell by any means.
As to the starch glue thing I'd still like to give that a shot with building a laminated paper bodyshell. It would have to be way cheaper than PVA for a start and wouldn't cost me anything save for my time.
Here is one that uses all three and i don't know why you could sub carpenter glue for glue all............I just put in pape mache glue for surch and got these......And one artical sayed to use brown paper like that of food bags..........Be waiting IW...Thanks ......Curt
How do I make Glue Dough for Craft Projects?
Supplies needed:
1 part Glue-All
1 part plain white flour
1 part cornstarch
food coloring (optional)
Instructions:
Measure equal parts of each and combine in a big bowl. For best results use level measurements. Mix and knead till well blended. If too dry, add drop or two of glue; if too moist, sprinkle with flour and cornstarch, a little at a time. Modeled items may be baked in low oven (200°F or so) to speed drying. Glue Dough will keep for weeks in a tightly closed plastic bag.
NOTE: ¼ cup glue, ¼ cup flour, ¼ cup cornstarch will create a tennis ball-sized yield
Tips & Techniques
You can mold & shape dough into figures or roll flat on a floured surface and use cookie cutters to cut desired shapes. To get colored dough, add a little food coloring or acrylic paint to the glue before mixing it in with the dry ingredients. You can also paint your dough creations with Glue Paint!
How do I make Glue Dough for Craft Projects?
Supplies needed:
1 part Glue-All
1 part plain white flour
1 part cornstarch
food coloring (optional)
Instructions:
Measure equal parts of each and combine in a big bowl. For best results use level measurements. Mix and knead till well blended. If too dry, add drop or two of glue; if too moist, sprinkle with flour and cornstarch, a little at a time. Modeled items may be baked in low oven (200°F or so) to speed drying. Glue Dough will keep for weeks in a tightly closed plastic bag.
NOTE: ¼ cup glue, ¼ cup flour, ¼ cup cornstarch will create a tennis ball-sized yield
Tips & Techniques
You can mold & shape dough into figures or roll flat on a floured surface and use cookie cutters to cut desired shapes. To get colored dough, add a little food coloring or acrylic paint to the glue before mixing it in with the dry ingredients. You can also paint your dough creations with Glue Paint!
When Tom mentioned rabbit wire to lay the paper on I had a flash back to my old partner in mischief using window screen to stretch over holes in car bodies. He sanded the paint off the metal surrounding the repair and used pizza boxes to hold the shape and then brushed fiberglass resin onto the screening and pizza box and the sanded metal as the screen was held in place with masking tape.
When that set up he removed the tape and brushed resin on those areas. a quick sanding followed, then multiple layers of body fill. It held up remarkably well over the years.
Driveway repairs at their best. He used to get upset when I told people that he was the proprietor of Slap and Dash Auto Body.
A gallon jug of carpenters glue is pretty reasonable and should be thinned with the same amount of water and mixed really well. I figured that they would use kraft paper since it has a great deal of strength and is has chemically resistant enough to be used to cover parts of car bodies that you don't want paint on.
I would use a 4" foam roller to apply the glue since you can get an even coating of glue on the paper without excessive build up and you would have better control of where the glue is going. I'm wondering how many layers would be needed to build up enough of a thickness that you be safe with.
Steve.
When that set up he removed the tape and brushed resin on those areas. a quick sanding followed, then multiple layers of body fill. It held up remarkably well over the years.
Driveway repairs at their best. He used to get upset when I told people that he was the proprietor of Slap and Dash Auto Body.
A gallon jug of carpenters glue is pretty reasonable and should be thinned with the same amount of water and mixed really well. I figured that they would use kraft paper since it has a great deal of strength and is has chemically resistant enough to be used to cover parts of car bodies that you don't want paint on.
I would use a 4" foam roller to apply the glue since you can get an even coating of glue on the paper without excessive build up and you would have better control of where the glue is going. I'm wondering how many layers would be needed to build up enough of a thickness that you be safe with.
Steve.
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I promised to scan a couple of photos of the building of a center console and dash using the rabbit wire and fiberglass method. First I built the shape, or form, with the wire. I had Char sit in the passenger seat and me the driver's side and formed the wire mesh to conform to a comfortable position for our feet. The rest was just free form to please my eye and imigination.
I layered fiberglass mat then cloth over the wire. When that had cured and was sanded, I applied plastic body filler putty to smooth things then went for the sandpaper.
The last two photos show the dash in primer then a later one installed in the car.
I made the dash removable to give access to the wiring and heater/defroster ducts.
The method will allow for any shape, compound curves or flat areas. I would think anyone could build a car body using this method. It's strong and rigid and would probably stand up to a little abuse. The dash is going on 18 years old and hasn't cracked or shown any signs of fatigue except a few scratches from normal use.
Tom
I layered fiberglass mat then cloth over the wire. When that had cured and was sanded, I applied plastic body filler putty to smooth things then went for the sandpaper.
The last two photos show the dash in primer then a later one installed in the car.
I made the dash removable to give access to the wiring and heater/defroster ducts.
The method will allow for any shape, compound curves or flat areas. I would think anyone could build a car body using this method. It's strong and rigid and would probably stand up to a little abuse. The dash is going on 18 years old and hasn't cracked or shown any signs of fatigue except a few scratches from normal use.
Tom
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Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
Nice work Tom. The rabbit wire made a really nice foundation for your fibreglass work. I'm impressed with the way it could be curved and shaped into compound curves, so now I'm trying to think of something I could make as a practice piece to try out the method.