This is my Stealth Bomber

[biknut]

The only problem with the right photo is you'd have to remove that factory seat mount. As for suspension travel we'd have to build that in by raising the seat a little. As for 10" of travel; do you plan to do a lot of off-road riding?

If we lived closer I'd be happy to build a seat for you. How could we do it long distance?
I'd need some pretty accurate measurements but I think it could be done.

Tom

Hey thanks Tom, that's real nice of you to offer. I'll keep that in mind for later. What I'd really like to do now is just ride the thing after waiting almost 2 months for it to get here. The whole time I was waiting the weather was great, but one day after getting it running, we just had this humongous ice storm, and I haven't been able to ride it for a week. It has all of 20 miles on it.

Oh well, I guess now's the time to work on it while the weather's bad. I've got a couple of modifications I'm working on.

 

[biknut]

Today it was warm enough that I was able to do a little work in the garage. My first attempt at mounting my kickstand from the other day failed. I tried to line the inside edge where it clamps to the swing arm with inner tube rubber to keep it from scratching the paint, but it didn't work out. Plus my swing arm is smaller than the one the stand was designed for, so I fabricated a new back half of the clamp, but the metal stock was too small gauge, and it flexed instead of putting enough force in the clamp. In other words total fail.

So today I tried again, but this time I used gasket material instead of inner tube rubber, and I made the back part of the bracket out of thicker metal. There's also a little spacer I need to make to help it fit better.

I also ordered a seat. It's a cheap copy of a Regal made my Origin 8. Only $20 instead of $120. The main difference is no cows gave their lives for this seat, it's the hide of a Nauga. Reviewers didn't seem to find much difference in the comfort level. This knock off is actually a few mm wider then the original.

http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/origin8-classic-lite-saddle-black

 

[2door]

I used to have a friend who raised Naugas. Nasty little creatures but their hide works great for bike seats and hot rod interiors. But you can't eat them.

Tom

 

[biknut]

My push button switches came today. One for the headlight, and one to operate the governor. These switches are water proof, and have cool chrome bodies, and are illuminated. One is red, and one blue. A handy thing about an electric bike is there's plenty of power to run stuff.

The way I'm planning to wire them, when you turn on the headlight, it will illuminate both switches.

 

[biknut]

I worked on this all day. No problems, I'm just slow and careful working on my own bike. When it's someone else's it doesn't take nearly as long for some reason lol.

Anyway the headlight works great and I'm very happy with the way it turned out. The blue switch turns on the headlight, and both illumination lights for the switches. The red switch disables the governor, for off road riding don't you know. Turning off the key switch also disables the lights so no one can walk up and turn on the lights when you're not around and run the battery down.

According to the CA, the headlight uses 3w of power. That's a lot of light for only 3w. I love Cree's.

 

[miked826]

This is my new Stealth Bomber, electric motor bicycle. So new in fact that I've only managed to pedal it up and down my block 2 times. I have plans to customize it to make it mine, but right now nothing is carved in stone. I welcome your suggestions. I ride in the concrete jungle, so that's the direction I'm heading with modifications.

All I've done to it so far is install low profile street tires to replace the knobblies that came on it from the factory. The only other work was to start installing a headlight. It didn't come with any lights or a kickstand.

The bike is officially designed to be a down hill racer, but I'll be using it more along the lines of a super motard that hardly ever sees the dirt.

Power output is electronically governed to the U.S. limit of 750w, and 20 mph top speed. Ungoverned off road power output is 4500w with a 50 mph top speed. The battery is 1500kW, with a 2 hour charge time, and up to 50 mile range.

It has something like 10" of suspension travel front and rear, adjustable for preload, and rebound.

This is the beginning.

1500kW = 1.5MW
You sure about that slim? That's the same output as this windmill here. LOL

 

[biknut]

1500kW = 1.5MW
You sure about that slim? That's the same output as this windmill here. LOL

Oops, actually it should have been 1.5 kWh. Thinking in terms of watts is new to me. I usually only think about amps in my work.

 

[Goat Herder]

Amperage goes up as voltage goes down. Thats why when a battery is low in a R.V. fusees can blow. Yet volts x amps = watts.

 

[biknut]

Next on the agenda is figuring out a better way to mount my kickstand.

After that fenders. I bought a front fender at REI but it's a mountain bike style that mounts high up right under the crown. The back portion of it hits the controller.

 

[biknut]

This is how I mounted the kickstand. I used gasket material glued to the inside of the clamp to protect the paint. I had to fabricate the back half of the clamp because this stand is made to fit a swing arm that's teller and wider the mine. I also made a small spacer to take up room at the top of the clamp. It's not Purdy, but it works, and it's a stand.

One thing about this stand compared to a typical bicycle kickstand, this one is strong a H.

 

[biknut]

I'm ready to ride now. I don't expect to find a front fender I like right away. I installed my rear rack, and that can serve as a rear fender, and I did a little modifying on the rear reflector mount so I can have a reflector, and a taillight.

 

[16v4nrbrgr]

Amperage goes up as voltage goes down. Thats why when a battery is low in a R.V. fusees can blow. Yet volts x amps = watts.

Actually that's not the case, voltage can be considered the pressure which induces the flow of electrons through the wires. With electric motors amperage goes down as the rpms go up though, due to back EMF, so the motor is at its most efficient at higher rpms, due to reduced current draw.

 

[Goat Herder]

Actually that's not the case, voltage can be considered the pressure which induces the flow of electrons through the wires. With electric motors amperage goes down as the rpms go up though, due to back EMF, so the motor is at its most efficient at higher rpms, due to reduced current draw.

Run a slide out room out on a motor home with a near dead battery enough times and it will burn the ''electric'' motor up. Try the starter on a automobile. Same thing will happen. Seen this happen many times over the years.

I get a Motor Home in with a couple of blown fuses and I start checking the charging system etc. Saw a Lot Porter the other day on a pop up trailer. He could not get the pop up up. Electric motor. He blew four fuses on it and kept replacing them.. We took the crap battery out of the circuit he was trying jumper cables on and it worked flawlessly from then on......

See this happen a bunch in the ''winter'' especially on motor homes when batteries turn to crap. I see this happen when somebody wants a loud stereo on there car and the stock charging system cannot keep up!

Ever see what happens at a R.V. park when they have dirty voltage. Pretty ugly!

 

[biknut]

With electric motors amperage goes down as the rpms go up though, due to back EMF, so the motor is at its most efficient at higher rpms, due to reduced current draw.

Good to know.

 

[Goat Herder]

Those controllers are set up to turn off when the battery is too low. That is how the industry does it if it is set up right.

 

[biknut]

Those controllers are set up to turn off when the battery is too low. That is how the industry does it if it is set up right.

Yes it does. According to what I've read about it, I can program the CA to turn off at any voltage I want. I'm not sure, but I think it's set from the factory to turn off at 69 or 70 v. I've seen where some people set them for 68 v, but after reading the above I think I'll stick with the factory setting.

I think the BMS will also turn it off.

 

[16v4nrbrgr]

Goat Herder, the phenomenon you describe sounds like it is due to a low battery not having enough voltage to spool up the starter or pop-up motor from stall, a stalled motor will flow maximum current available from the controller or solenoid, and if it is unable to spool up, excess current draw can possibly burn out fuses meant for only a momentary maximum current draw spike.

I'd check out the minimum voltage allowed for your particular battery pack in its spec sheet, and set it for that value to avoid irreversible damage from over discharging it. It's also a good idea to set up a monitoring voltmeter with alarm as a fail-safe to avoid this circumstance because they are quite expensive as you know.

The bike looks very nice Biknut, glad to hear that it didn't put your marriage in jeopardy when it arrived, lol!

 

[Goat Herder]

Calculator from here. http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-ohm.htm


While I will agree totally with what you are saying . The rule does not just apply to electric motors.


200 watts 6 volts 33.33 amps

If we ran 220 at our sockets like in European places instead of 110 volts from our power lines we would save resources IMO!

Change the voltage just 2 volts and get 200 watts 9 volts 22.222 amps http://kriegerelectric.com/Cautions-RV.html

 

[biknut]

Today was Sunny and 58 degrees. I got to put another 20 miles on Electronaut.

 

[Goat Herder]

Dang that is Beautiful I mean the bike er yeah

How is the torque and speed/pickup off the line treating you?